Stud Girdles
03-04-2005, 09:08 PM
#3
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Re: Stud Girdles
Jessel Shaft rockers are the way to go one less thing to go wrong I think with hyd cams you will be ok but stud flex is always there have you broken a stud that is your first sign.
03-04-2005, 11:42 PM
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Re: Stud Girdles
Mark,
Broke a stud at the shootout last summer.
Installed new stud with boat in slip and was
running in a few hours.
Going with Jesel shaft rockers this year.
Broke a stud at the shootout last summer.
Installed new stud with boat in slip and was
running in a few hours.
Going with Jesel shaft rockers this year.
03-04-2005, 11:43 PM
#5
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Re: Stud Girdles
There is an rpm/spring pressure line that if you pass it, girdles are very helpful.
Aluminum heads automatically run closer to that "line" than iron heads.
ARP studs are your stopgap measure.
Aluminum heads automatically run closer to that "line" than iron heads.
ARP studs are your stopgap measure.
03-05-2005, 09:24 AM
#6
Re: Stud Girdles
This may not be the greatest analogy, but is a person more stable standing on one leg or two?
I have always heard that the weakest link in the Big Block Chevy is the valve train. The old design stud mount system is some really old tech stuff. Shaft mount rockers are the way to go if a person can afford to go that route as it really isn't all that much more expensive. With shaft mount rockers you eliminate the need to purchase guide plates or studs...so, you're already money ahead there----and that is especially true if stud girdles are needed! Besides that stud girdles are a pain! A shaft mount rocker system is more reliable, and stable, and takes car of/elimninates ALL that other stuff for you.
I have always heard that the weakest link in the Big Block Chevy is the valve train. The old design stud mount system is some really old tech stuff. Shaft mount rockers are the way to go if a person can afford to go that route as it really isn't all that much more expensive. With shaft mount rockers you eliminate the need to purchase guide plates or studs...so, you're already money ahead there----and that is especially true if stud girdles are needed! Besides that stud girdles are a pain! A shaft mount rocker system is more reliable, and stable, and takes car of/elimninates ALL that other stuff for you.
Last edited by KAAMA; 03-05-2005 at 09:32 AM.
03-05-2005, 10:48 AM
#7
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Re: Stud Girdles
If you are using alumimun heads that will see any constant rpm over 5000 and you are running a hyd roller set up, I highly recommend a stud girdle. Aluminum heads allow the stud to flex more so then a steel head. The can lead to unwanted valve train harmonics that can harm the engine.
Chris
Chris
03-05-2005, 08:07 PM
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Re: Stud Girdles
After reading up on these shaft mounted setups mentioned, and the girdles...i see that the shaft mounts are the only bullet prof way to go.
Looking at about $695-$1200 depending which type/options or should i say how light you want them.
Now that I have the CMI's i needed to finish this project...
Im looking to dial the motors in at 55-5600rpm WOT. My cams are 248/258-.608/.617 so i just wanted to make sure im covered in the valvetrain. I think 140 is the seat # on the springs.
So are a set of girdles ok for me?
Looking at about $695-$1200 depending which type/options or should i say how light you want them.
Now that I have the CMI's i needed to finish this project...
Im looking to dial the motors in at 55-5600rpm WOT. My cams are 248/258-.608/.617 so i just wanted to make sure im covered in the valvetrain. I think 140 is the seat # on the springs.
So are a set of girdles ok for me?
Last edited by Back4More; 03-05-2005 at 08:13 PM.
03-06-2005, 08:39 AM
#10
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Re: Stud Girdles
Back4More, I just went thru this same exercise this winter. Was running aluminum heads with studs and Crane Golds, and after 250 hours it was time to freshen up my rockers. I ended up going with Jesel Sportsmans.
Like your setup, I'm running .600/.615 lift and 140lbs on seat, with hyd roller cam. I also spin it up to 5500/5600 WOT. My dilemma was whether to go with Sportsmans (~$700/set) or Comp/race (~$1200/set). My builder and I concluded that my setup was fairly mild on lift, and not real high rpm, so the Sportsmans would be sufficient.
Keep in mind that no upgrades to HP motors are simply "bolt-on". My heads needed some mild millwork to get the pushrod geometry to clear, and you'll need taller valve covers for the extra 3/8" height inside.
Do you really "need" this stuff? Maybe, maybe not. Will you have a confidence that your valvetrain is stable, making the best possible power without stud flex and harmonics? Absolutely.
What the heck, it's only money.
Brian
Like your setup, I'm running .600/.615 lift and 140lbs on seat, with hyd roller cam. I also spin it up to 5500/5600 WOT. My dilemma was whether to go with Sportsmans (~$700/set) or Comp/race (~$1200/set). My builder and I concluded that my setup was fairly mild on lift, and not real high rpm, so the Sportsmans would be sufficient.
Keep in mind that no upgrades to HP motors are simply "bolt-on". My heads needed some mild millwork to get the pushrod geometry to clear, and you'll need taller valve covers for the extra 3/8" height inside.
Do you really "need" this stuff? Maybe, maybe not. Will you have a confidence that your valvetrain is stable, making the best possible power without stud flex and harmonics? Absolutely.
What the heck, it's only money.
Brian
