Thanks for all the advice. Here's an update... Heat and liberal 'pounding' had no effect in this particular instance, though a good suggestion in general. I bought a set of the craftsman bolt-out's, absolutely useless (in my opinion) for this application. They just stripped out internally on the first turn. I'd wager they would work well on manifold bolts, but those head bolts are tough. The welding option sounded good, but not an option for me skillwise. What did work was the dremel with the heavy duty cutoff wheels. I just settled into the bilge for the duration, enjoying that warm florescent glow of sun-lit shink-wrap, and let the sparks fly. Elapsed time, 1hr 10min, and used approx 8-10 disks. Good experience for me, as I'll probably be going through the same process on the starboard side in another year or so

One I learned about reverse drill bits, I never had a problem again. Most times as I start the drill the bolt will come out.

Good Stuff!! Way to have a positive attitude for such a shi**y job!

hillbilly is right,I work on cars every day and boats they work great.

Exact situation happened to me. I tried EVERYTHING short of using a torch to cut the head off. Nothing worked. Then I used a DREMEL with a 1" cutoff wheel. I diced the head (because it was recessed in the head) and used a cold chisel and a baby sledge to bust off the small sections. The bolt is hardened and the cut sections easily snapped off. What was left was the bolt shoulder which just allowed the head to pop right off, no problem.

...And to think I wasted 3-4 hours with all of the other methods...ugh...

Good LucK!

-Larry

Do not use a torch to cut the head off. Use a torch to cherry red what is left to the top of the head bolt. while it is red hit it very very hard with a drift pin or a ball peen to relieve the tension. do this individual to all the bolts. then after they have cooled, or cooled some start over with a set of impact sockets. preferably 6 point. cherry the head again and pound the socket on. wait for a min or two to cool and spin out. The first heating will relieve tension. It will grow in length and buy letting it cool fairly slow it will change the metallurgical structure of the Steele. then cherry it again so you can forge a new shape such as a smaller socket size on it. I have done this on up to 2.25 socket head bolts that were almost completely corroded off In a recycled fiber paper mill that has high clorine content. have a good time but it always works and no special tools needed.