Let's talk intercoms
11-22-2003 | 08:27 AM
#1
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,907
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From: Quogue, NY
Let's talk intercoms
Ok, guys. Most boats are out of the water for re-fitting. Are you sick of losing your intercom during the race? Would you like to actually HEAR the other guy?
Let's talk intercoms!
Who makes the best ones?
Which ones hold up?
Which ones sound the best?
Who's harnesses fall apart?
Which one would you buy again/ avoid like the plague?
Let's talk intercoms!
Who makes the best ones?
Which ones hold up?
Which ones sound the best?
Who's harnesses fall apart?
Which one would you buy again/ avoid like the plague?
11-22-2003 | 11:21 AM
#2
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 15
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From: Bricktown NJ
I would highly recomend the Revolution Marine system. We use it and its the best I have used. It has a mic that wraps around the throat, and you put ear lugs in for hearing. There is no wind noise, and it sounds like the person is sitting next to you. Its a great system.
Rob Gaida
Revolution Marine
P-5 25 Throttles
Rob Gaida
Revolution Marine
P-5 25 Throttles
11-22-2003 | 12:20 PM
#4
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Registered
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,907
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From: Quogue, NY
My biggest gripe so far is with the wiring harnesses of most systems.
Out of the back of the intercom, there often are 20+ wires. If one fails, usually the whole intercom goes down.
Usually, the harness is set up with some kind of Molex type multi prong connectors. I am not enamored with them. Stress & strain results in a marginal and then dead connection.
After experimenting with various connectors, I arrived at an extemely low tech solution:
Metal (aluminum) project box, 5 x 5 inches.
In the side: A couple of 3/4 inch holes for all the cables. Each hole gets fitted with a platic vable grip. It is a plastic feedthrough for the cable bundle. Tightening its nut by hand makes the grommet constrict on the cables, locking then firmly in place.
In the box: As many connector blocks (marine type, stainless) as needed, 3 blocks of 8 connectors usually suffice. All connections are made on these blocks, no plugs or connectors are used.
When finished and checked-out, metal cover goes on top of box. Box is grounded. This setup shields everything from interference.
I never had a problem with thise setup.
Out of the back of the intercom, there often are 20+ wires. If one fails, usually the whole intercom goes down.
Usually, the harness is set up with some kind of Molex type multi prong connectors. I am not enamored with them. Stress & strain results in a marginal and then dead connection.
After experimenting with various connectors, I arrived at an extemely low tech solution:
Metal (aluminum) project box, 5 x 5 inches.
In the side: A couple of 3/4 inch holes for all the cables. Each hole gets fitted with a platic vable grip. It is a plastic feedthrough for the cable bundle. Tightening its nut by hand makes the grommet constrict on the cables, locking then firmly in place.
In the box: As many connector blocks (marine type, stainless) as needed, 3 blocks of 8 connectors usually suffice. All connections are made on these blocks, no plugs or connectors are used.
When finished and checked-out, metal cover goes on top of box. Box is grounded. This setup shields everything from interference.
I never had a problem with thise setup.
