Engine removal Sport
06-18-2011 | 05:41 AM
#11
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From: Stockholm, Sweden
06-18-2011 | 06:56 AM
#12
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From: Bedford & Wolfeboro, NH
On my 1968 the rear seat assembly is screwed and bolted in place and to remove is just a few minutes labor. The bulkhead behind is an arch on which battery switches and MSD boxes are mounted. The entire lower section is cut out allowing for easy access to water pumps, alternators, belts, etc.
I can't imagine accessing motor mounts from above!
Mario L.
I can't imagine accessing motor mounts from above!
Mario L.
06-18-2011 | 09:04 AM
#13
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From: NewBaltimore Mi
Folding the back seat is cheating. :-)
I'm not big on working with plastics and rebuilding the rear sofa wont happen this season or the next but maybe some day. I'll remove the water pump after summer and try it again.
Mark, it looks like you have a cross over without bypass, do you know yet what temperature you are running? Mine feels a bit to cold so I'm changing to a 160 degree stat.
I'm not big on working with plastics and rebuilding the rear sofa wont happen this season or the next but maybe some day. I'll remove the water pump after summer and try it again.
Mark, it looks like you have a cross over without bypass, do you know yet what temperature you are running? Mine feels a bit to cold so I'm changing to a 160 degree stat.
06-18-2011 | 09:40 AM
#14
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From: NewBaltimore Mi
On my old race Mag with the back seat removed. we tied the the removed bulk head together with a aluminum C channel. If you look close at my eng bay you can see the alum c channel I used. I believe Tim [tfalk] did the same on his Mad Mother Mag. On my [new old] pleasure Mag I dont think it would make much difference, but you could always ad a removable brace.
06-18-2011 | 12:17 PM
#15
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From: Huntley IL.
Volvo vs TRS's
When we remove our engines we remove all necessary connections,pull the headers of of both engines and then remove the 1st one,the 2nd one is a breeze.When putting them back ...same process,install engines and hook up all connections,then put the headers and exhaust back.As you can see from the pictures attached we have very tight fits in both boats,with TRS's drives. Jeppe on your comment that the exhaust were the same hight as when it was built,remember if they replaced engines or drives the rear of the boat is heaver than it was when it was built.Bud
06-19-2011 | 03:18 AM
#16
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From: Stockholm, Sweden
When we remove our engines we remove all necessary connections,pull the headers of of both engines and then remove the 1st one,the 2nd one is a breeze.When putting them back ...same process,install engines and hook up all connections,then put the headers and exhaust back.As you can see from the pictures attached we have very tight fits in both boats,with TRS's drives. Jeppe on your comment that the exhaust were the same hight as when it was built,remember if they replaced engines or drives the rear of the boat is heaver than it was when it was built.Bud
06-19-2011 | 10:47 PM
#18
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From: NewBaltimore Mi
I've been thinking about that. Our Mag is quite low in the water and I always figured it is because of our 400+ engines. But the drives, transmission and engine blocks are all original. They should even be lighter thanks to the aluminum Powerflow exhaust. Was she this deep from the factory?
06-19-2011 | 11:10 PM
#19
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From: Huntley IL.
Exhaust
Mark take a good look,of the boat docked in the shed...those exhaust are at the water line.I rather have mine come out above the rub rail,or just below it. Bud
Last edited by mr vinyl; 06-19-2011 at 11:14 PM.
