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Old 04-05-2007 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by bobl
FYI. I always run water and fuel pressure gauges and watch them closely while running. I consider these the most important to monitor in a SC application. You can recognize a lot of problems before any damage is done. I can't count the number of times I've had issues that showed up as low water or fuel pressure that could have been catastrophic. The pressure definitely continues to rise as speed increases. Mine runs fairly low until I get up to around 70. Then it gets up to around 20. Water pressure very well may be your culprit.

Bob
Bob,
Thanks for your input. Eric is upgrading my fuel system. We'll
be replacing the Merc mechanical pump with a high volume K/E billet mechanical. I may need to dump some water pressure too. I think 25 PSI is plenty. What do you guys think?
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Steve
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Old 04-05-2007 | 01:15 PM
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Steve,
If you are running over 25 psi of water pressure, then that is absolutely your problem. Fel-Pro gaskets really can't handle any more than that. If everything is perfect (block and heads perfectly straight, Ra finish on the money, etc) you may be able to get away with a little more than 25 psi. The Cometics have taken over 50 psi in the Nortech cats. At the speeds we were running in Cyclone(174 mph), I couldn't get rid of enough water to drop the pressure below 50 at WOT. I started with the Fel-Pro's and every time the water pressure got over 30 psi, water would get in the oil. The Cometics solved the problem. You need to get rid of some of your water. You really should have a water dump out of the back of the intake, if you don't already. I run one on all of my SC motors. It not only gets rid of water, but also prevents any steam pockets in the back of the block and heads by moving water back there. You can also put a check valve on a dump from the front of the intake. CP sells an adjustable one. Just putting on Cometics and not dropping the water pressure is just a band aid. Hope this helped you. Give me a shout if I can help you any further. See ya, Eddie.
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Old 04-05-2007 | 02:02 PM
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Eddie,
I will be monitoring the gauges closely when we get it all back together (actually the motor is together, but my blower is in for repair).
Thanks again,
Steve
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Old 04-07-2007 | 06:25 PM
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Steve,
I went by EB's yesterday to have him do some welding for me since my hand is tore up. I had a chance to see your head gasket and there is no doubt that the problem is too much water pressure. The water made a nice little trail from the water port to the extra bolt hole in the gasket that goes into the lifter valley. Definately keep an eye on it when you run it again. Did you go to Cometics or stay with the Fel-Pro's?? Let me know if I can help. See ya, Eddie.
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Old 04-09-2007 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Young Performance
Steve,
I went by EB's yesterday to have him do some welding for me since my hand is tore up. I had a chance to see your head gasket and there is no doubt that the problem is too much water pressure. The water made a nice little trail from the water port to the extra bolt hole in the gasket that goes into the lifter valley. Definately keep an eye on it when you run it again. Did you go to Cometics or stay with the Fel-Pro's?? Let me know if I can help. See ya, Eddie.
Hey Eddie,
Sorry to hear about your hand.......and thanks for helping us diagnose the problem.
I think with a studded block, Cometics and some water relief, we'll be back in business. Not much happening until I get my supercharger back, hopefully late this week.
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Steve
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Old 04-09-2007 | 10:11 AM
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Steve,
There really is no need for the extra head bolts. It certainly can't hurt, but it's not a nessessity. The cometics should stop it from happening again, but you do need to get rid of some water. It would be a really good idea to put a water dump out the back of the intake, if it doesn't already have one. It doesn't have to be big. If the intake doesn't have holes there, you should be able to add them. All you need is an 1/8 npt hole on each side. Tee the two of them together and dump it overboard. Not only will it lower your water pressure, but it will prevent any steam pockets at the back of the intake and heads. Give me a shout if you need a hand. Good luck with it. Eddie
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Old 04-09-2007 | 10:28 AM
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Eddie,
Thanks for the heads up on the water relief. That will work well and Eric agrees. We will run that water out of my current intercooler dump. We are going to reroute the intercooler water to my drive shower cap. I have a decent drive shower now, but whenever I see those things on a fast boat shot from a following helicopter, they're never working. The intercooler water should drown it at high speed.
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Steve
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Old 04-09-2007 | 10:41 PM
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Steve,
Sounds like ya'll got it figured out. You are right about the shower. You might want to consider the top cap that I put on Hamrick's drives. They are not only real tough and prevent any flexing, but they have internal water passages to cool the drive. The water circulates through the cap and runs down the side of the upper instead of just blasting it. It allows the water to stay in contact longer to transfer more heat from the drive to the water. I have had some real good luck with them. They're not cheap, but what boat part is these days Give me a shout if I can help. Eddie
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Old 04-10-2007 | 08:40 AM
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Eddie,
What top caps are you using? I've seen the billet aluminum ones with the heat sink fins. They look great, and I am sure they work better than a stainless cap.
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Old 04-10-2007 | 09:43 AM
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The one that I have been using is by Billet Marine. It is just flat on the top with no cooling fins and is black hard coat anodized. I don't think the one made by Max with the cooling fins has an internal water passage. The Billet Marine cap is also about half the price of the Max cap. It is about 1 1/2" thick billet aluminum and is a really nice piece. Hope that helps, Eddie.
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