Hi Ragers,

I've got an 01 Rage with a 502, stock bravo xr, and Procharger. I am running a labbed b4 30 pitch propeller. I am running at 90 mph gps and could have more I think. I've got some funny handling - speed wobbles/chine walk at the top end, particularly as I back off the throttle.

I've talked to Nordic and they suggest a slightly smaller diameter prop - take a little off the leading edge.

I am also considering a sportmaster or imco lower, perhaps 1" or 2" shorter. Any thoughts?

What are other people running on blown Rages?

Thank you much! Collin

Collin,
Maybe you could show us a picture of your boat, because we don't have much information, other than it's it's flying (congrats there).
Recommendations:
Lifeline jackets for yourself and anyone who boats with you at those speeds, hooked to a kill switch lanyard.
Full dual cylinder hydraulic steering to helm.
Trim tabs with indicators.
Other ideas,
On vee hulls running over 80, some good driving skills (learning to counter steer) and seat time are essential. Balancing your boat fore and aft, as well as laterally are important. A boat that is heavy on one side will tend to fall off the pad to that side, and start a chine walk.
I use my saddle gas tanks to balance my boat, rather than using the tabs. The tabs will work too, but you'll usually lose some speed due to the drag.
The reason your boat gets loose when you back off the throttle is:
The entire "set" of the boat is dependent on the horsepower being delivered to prop. The propeller is delivering hydrodynamic lift to the hull, and because it's at speed, you are also getting some aerodynamic lift. In other words, your boat has very little wetted surface @ WOT (which is good, it's easier to go fast over the water than through the water), but if you "chop" the throttle, most of the lift goes away, and your already loose ride falls back into the water with little control.
To slow down safely, reduce the trim and throttle GRADUALLY. This way your boat is making a smoother transition from WOT to slower planing speeds, by gradually rewetting more hull surface.
The same goes for high speed turns in a step vee, smooth and steady with practice is the way to go. You may have heard about some step hulls spinning out in high speed turns (I haven't heard of a Nordic doing this, and don't want to). My Heat turns best with level to slightly negative trim. Too much negative or positive trim can cause a step vee to spin out.
Gearcase design (I think a good nose cone or IMCO case would help you @ 90), depth (too high you'll lose bow lift, too low can cause chine walk), and propellers (pitch/diameter/rake/blade area/cup/# of blades) definitely come into play here too. Sounds like you are getting close.
Welcome to the Nordic forum.
Regards,
Steve

Do you have full hydraulic steering? TX-instigator's Rage is running over 900HP. It does not have full hydraulic steering. You can run it up to 90 with almost no trim and it is not too bad on smooth water. Once you start trimming it becomes pretty wild. It's never seen top speed! Full hydraulic steering is a must!

Hi Steve & Bobl-

Very much appreciate your input. I will post some pics shortly - it is off getting its outdrive service. I really enjoyed this summer with all the upgrades, super reliable effortless 60-70 mph and fun fun jumps to lightspeed too!

Incidentally, had also installed Imco PowerFlow manifold and stainless risers.

RE the steering - I definitely hear you on hydraulic to the helm, that said, I've got zero-play and rock-solid when I move to the stern and try to wiggle/wrench the drive from side to side). I used the longest and hence greatest leverage steering arm from Mayfair to try to get there.

I do have quite a bit of boating experience, but this is the first boat I've owned that does over 74 (in the 90's I had a 23 Magic sport - very cool little padded v hull that they didn't make for long). The mph difference to 90 is indeed enormous.

I appreciate the thoughts too on gently reducing throttle - I have found as you suggest that intiating a gentle turn while easing off the throttle does improve stability. I too have tried to keep the tanks in balance - I can't bellieve how sensitive the Rage is to lateral weight. I don't have much to shift longitudinally, but could experiment with the little anchor and 10' rode up in the locker.

I am planning to add Dana tabs (which size do you suggest?) as well as a nose cone. Had a very good conversation btw with Joe Malich, owner of Powerboats NW (the only go-fast dealer and service in the NW).

I am also going to have the prop shaved a LITTLE more (labbed and thinned already). I am at 5,000 rpm now and want a few hundred more (I had the ECU worked and lifted to 5,400 at AZSPM).

In addition to Joe at PBNW, I also spoke to Bill Schumaker, owner of Eliminator of Indiana - he does no more about centrifufal superchargers than anyone. Got a great tip to help ensure fuel flow and ward off leaning in boost. He suggested adding a second fuel line from the regulator to the front of the fuel rail where there is already a pressure tap plugged (my rail is stock 502 fed at the rear only).

Anyway, I am keeping an eye on fuel pressure - right at 48, per AZSPM and confirmed by Bill.

OH Yes, safety is the name of the game these days. I have to admit I hadn't used the lanyard much on prior boats - this one I do all the time and everyone does get a jacket if we're going to push it.

I am really hoping the a little bit of tab (maybe just a couple of degrees south of parallel) will help the wobbles, I hate to scrape off speed with flaps, but will keep you informed.

Any thoughts on who makes the best hydronynamic cone for the XR? Any tips on install? I'm not a welder, can expoxy and filler do the job well enough or should I have it welded? What about the water pick-ups? I've got and need LWP, are the nosecone's pre-drilled?

Thanks much!!

Here's my wife and I, Rage in the distance a couple months ago - I will get some shots of the transom and engine too.

Collin,
As I mentioned earlier, welcome to the Nordic forum. You've got a pretty wife and a boat to match, so life look's pretty good. I think you will find a wealth of knowledge about these boats here from fellow Nordic owners and dealers.
Leading Edge makes the nicest bravo nose cones I have seen so far. Properly installed, they look just like a black powder coated Imco. They do make a LWP version, which should work for you. It should be welded on. There is a little bit of plumbing involved. If you can't find anyone to do it out there, you can ship it here and we can have it done for you.
Just make sure to keep an eye on your water pressure with any LWP setup, as I have seen increases of 10PSI over stock, and that will blow gaskets.
Here is a picture of the Eddie Marine billet tabs that I am running. For true offshore rough water abuse, they are probably a little light, but for my purposes (fresh water, not that rough) they have been fine.
I am using cable actuated indicators too.
Regards,
Steve