525 Exhaust
#1
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525 Exhaust
Anyone got any pics of tailpipes for a heat with a 525? Swapping out the 496 soon. I already have the motor and drive, All I need is the tailpipes. Nordic wants $1500 for them and thats hard to swallow. Also, Should I put a drive spacer in when I do the swap?
Thanks, Derek
Thanks, Derek
#2
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Hi Derek,
Congrats on the new motor and drive.
It looks like you have the standard swim platform exhaust outlets on your boat. We installed a similar exhaust system on a friend's Heat here a couple of years ago. We ordered his tailpipes (and CMIs) through Teague Custom Marine. Can't remember the pricing. They did fit nicely, after a lot of measurements, and look terrific.
An alternative setup (it will be louder) is to glass up the stock outlets, and take the exhaust out over the drive. You would take it out approximately where the fuel filter is pictured in this setup.
The pipes/tips which could be one piece with gasket trim rings, would be straighter and therefore easier to fab, and possibly have a little less backpressure, and should be less expensive. But, you'll have the expense of glassing up the corner outlet holes, which would probably offset any savings on the pipes. Good luck on your project. Keep us posted.
On the spacer. That depends on your current X dimension. You may be able to run where you are, particlarly if you run a five blade. I would test without it first.
Regards,
Steve
Congrats on the new motor and drive.
It looks like you have the standard swim platform exhaust outlets on your boat. We installed a similar exhaust system on a friend's Heat here a couple of years ago. We ordered his tailpipes (and CMIs) through Teague Custom Marine. Can't remember the pricing. They did fit nicely, after a lot of measurements, and look terrific.
An alternative setup (it will be louder) is to glass up the stock outlets, and take the exhaust out over the drive. You would take it out approximately where the fuel filter is pictured in this setup.
The pipes/tips which could be one piece with gasket trim rings, would be straighter and therefore easier to fab, and possibly have a little less backpressure, and should be less expensive. But, you'll have the expense of glassing up the corner outlet holes, which would probably offset any savings on the pipes. Good luck on your project. Keep us posted.
On the spacer. That depends on your current X dimension. You may be able to run where you are, particlarly if you run a five blade. I would test without it first.
Regards,
Steve
Last edited by Steve Zuckerman; 12-03-2009 at 06:11 PM.
#3
Chris
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I agree with Steve... If you have a P5x, I would try it first without a spacer.
I believe that CMI manufactures those pipes for Nordic.
I would check with them.
Chris
I believe that CMI manufactures those pipes for Nordic.
I would check with them.
Chris
Last edited by CB-BLR; 12-03-2009 at 08:10 PM.
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I just did what Derek is wanting to do or I should say Bob Lloyd at Full throttle Marine in Spicewood Texas did my swap.....
Mine is an 05 so I have a 1 inch Spacer ...I went ahead and went with the exhaust from Nordic (sounds awesome BTW) also something else to think about and the best Person to ask about this is Bob ....Bob pretty much had to build me a whole new wiring Harness when he did the swap ...We also went ahead and redid all the gears in the lower unit so now my Lower Unit is an XR drive....
I would give Bob a call and ask him your Questions like I said he just did mine back in August
Here is Bob`s Number 830 693 5591
Mine is an 05 so I have a 1 inch Spacer ...I went ahead and went with the exhaust from Nordic (sounds awesome BTW) also something else to think about and the best Person to ask about this is Bob ....Bob pretty much had to build me a whole new wiring Harness when he did the swap ...We also went ahead and redid all the gears in the lower unit so now my Lower Unit is an XR drive....
I would give Bob a call and ask him your Questions like I said he just did mine back in August
Here is Bob`s Number 830 693 5591
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Thanks Guys! Nordic told me that the pipes were manufactured in WI. After doing some checking thats where CMI is I think. I'll just call them. I'll also call bob at full throttle to ask him a few questions. My Original plan was to run the 525, XR w/speedmaster lower, 1" spacer, and a B1 28'. You guys think I should ditch the spacer and run a p5x first? I've Only been around nordics for a few months and am open to any comments and suggestions. I want this thing to be as fast as it can be with a stock 525. The boat goes in the shop next week and I cant wait!!!
Derek
Derek
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I am running a 26p Bravo 4 Blade right out of the Box but only getting like 4950 RPM ...Oh I think it was like 74 to 75 MPH on Speedo on the Mississippi ....My plans are to send my Prop in and have it tuned this spring and try to get my RPM closer to 5200 and maybe getting me a mile or 2 more per hour .....Like I said above I have a 1 inch spacer on mine .....Bob sold a 06 Heat to Mark LeBlanc in Houston and he is also running his with a Spacer so I would think a spacer is should be on your shopping list.......
But do call Bob and pick his Brain ...If anyone knows anything about Nordic`s he does
But do call Bob and pick his Brain ...If anyone knows anything about Nordic`s he does
#7
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Hi Derek,
I don't think you'll be able to buy direct from CMI. I think they sell exclusively through OEMs, dealers, and accessory guys like Teague. So that leaves Nordic, Bob, and Teague as your best options, and of course Nordic and Bob have the correct dimensions already. Teague sent us some pretty detailed diagrams to get the correct dimensions on Butch's tailpipes.
It's hard to beat 5 blades on Heats. We've had good success with the Hydromotives and Herrings. Hydromotive has a test program to help you determine which pitch is correct for your boat. Re the spacer, I never could get a B1 4 blade to work on my boat without a 1", which I still run, even with the 5 blade.
It doesn't seem to mind the extra depth.
Regards,
Steve
I don't think you'll be able to buy direct from CMI. I think they sell exclusively through OEMs, dealers, and accessory guys like Teague. So that leaves Nordic, Bob, and Teague as your best options, and of course Nordic and Bob have the correct dimensions already. Teague sent us some pretty detailed diagrams to get the correct dimensions on Butch's tailpipes.
It's hard to beat 5 blades on Heats. We've had good success with the Hydromotives and Herrings. Hydromotive has a test program to help you determine which pitch is correct for your boat. Re the spacer, I never could get a B1 4 blade to work on my boat without a 1", which I still run, even with the 5 blade.
It doesn't seem to mind the extra depth.
Regards,
Steve
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I've got some stock 525 tail pipes I'd let go very reasonable. They may work if you ran straight out the back. To go out the cormers you really need to buy the correct cmi tails. When I did Bent's boat they still didn't match up and I had to cut and weld the tips so they would meet. If you try to cut corners you could run into reversion issues. The CMI talils dump the water at the very tip of the tail pipe. I would say you definitely need a spacer, even with a 5 blade. But testing is the only way to really know. If you are going to run the sportmaster lower then the whole game changes. You'll just have to test and see, but I bet it still needs a spacer unless you are in pretty rough water. Then the hull will air out well without the extra trim that is needed to carry the nose in smooth water.
Last edited by bobl; 12-04-2009 at 09:59 AM.
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I've got some stock 525 tail pipes I'd let go very reasonable. They may work if you ran straight out the back. To go out the cormers you really need to buy the correct cmi tails. When I did Bent's boat they still didn't match up and I had to cut and weld the tips so they would meet. If you try to cut corners you could run into reversion issues. The CMI talils dump the water at the very tip of the tail pipe. I would say you definitely need a spacer, even with a 5 blade. But testing is the only way to really know. If you are going to run the sportmaster lower then the whole game changes. You'll just have to test and see, but I bet it still needs a spacer unless you are in pretty rough water. Then the hull will air out well without the extra trim that is needed to carry the nose in smooth water.