Thoughts on a 42' OL Legacy...
06-13-2011 | 09:57 AM
#12
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From: Elkhart, Indiana
06-14-2011 | 08:57 PM
#13
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From: St. Louis / LOTO
the amount of things you have to go through for a #6 boat is beyond a bravo boat....this is a big step and unless you have the change to run and fix the things you break if you intend on going big power...it's not a deal...however, the redone boats, you know what you're getting.
I'm not putting any boat down, however...if you're coming from a 31 sonic, this is a big step up....just don't go in blind, find history on the boat...and understand...get everything checked out, because if you don't, you will find gremlins that will not be a grand...but starting at 10..and moving on up....
I'm not putting any boat down, however...if you're coming from a 31 sonic, this is a big step up....just don't go in blind, find history on the boat...and understand...get everything checked out, because if you don't, you will find gremlins that will not be a grand...but starting at 10..and moving on up....
Great info... not trying to hi-jack the thread, but can you (or anyone else) expand on the "total cost of ownership" with a #6 boat? I'd like for my next boat to have #6 drives when the time comes, but am afraid maintenance and repairs might keep me on the dock
What should a guy budget for? Thanks... SM
06-14-2011 | 09:10 PM
#14
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From: CT, FL
As long as you have a good set of drives, the gears are good, depends on how much power you're pushing....
Change your drive oil...lets not forget...you're adding a transmission here, and naturally larger power. It's all about how much you're throwing at one. Personally I don't feel there's any problem pushing 1200 on one. Especially if you cryo the gears.
With a repo boat, who knows what you're getting. You want to make sure the gimbals are good, no leaks or bad seals obviously, then on the shaft of the 6s you want to make sure the prop shaft seal is good or you could end up with a drive full of water.
To everyone who knows, every time you change props, USE NEW PROP NUTS, never use the same, or you WILL spin a prop...it's not a matter of if...
If you're pushing under 950hp I personally don't think there is much beyond routine maintenance, gear oil, inspection, service them every season, it's all how much you run the boat and how you take care of it.
Trannies are another story, again if you're under 900, there's not much you need to worry about if you're running a huber/bam...my idea is always been overbuild...run a bam 1500..then you never have to second guess. In that respect, you always want to check your tranny oil. That is the most important thing, period..you can burn them out faster than you can say hooha....then it's engines....I mean this isn't really a fair question, if you're running #6s the cost of ownership goes up because if you're using a #6 you're probably going to have large power behind it...that alone has a major price tag...unless you're content with pushing smaller power...
I mean this is a pretty open ended thing, but maybe that can give you an idea of what you have to do. There is more but I feel I covered the main parts.
Change your drive oil...lets not forget...you're adding a transmission here, and naturally larger power. It's all about how much you're throwing at one. Personally I don't feel there's any problem pushing 1200 on one. Especially if you cryo the gears.
With a repo boat, who knows what you're getting. You want to make sure the gimbals are good, no leaks or bad seals obviously, then on the shaft of the 6s you want to make sure the prop shaft seal is good or you could end up with a drive full of water.
To everyone who knows, every time you change props, USE NEW PROP NUTS, never use the same, or you WILL spin a prop...it's not a matter of if...
If you're pushing under 950hp I personally don't think there is much beyond routine maintenance, gear oil, inspection, service them every season, it's all how much you run the boat and how you take care of it.
Trannies are another story, again if you're under 900, there's not much you need to worry about if you're running a huber/bam...my idea is always been overbuild...run a bam 1500..then you never have to second guess. In that respect, you always want to check your tranny oil. That is the most important thing, period..you can burn them out faster than you can say hooha....then it's engines....I mean this isn't really a fair question, if you're running #6s the cost of ownership goes up because if you're using a #6 you're probably going to have large power behind it...that alone has a major price tag...unless you're content with pushing smaller power...
I mean this is a pretty open ended thing, but maybe that can give you an idea of what you have to do. There is more but I feel I covered the main parts.
06-15-2011 | 09:08 PM
#17
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From: Central Illinois
This is a very well put statement. Big power is big fun though, just have to respect and maintain it. Number 6s are the only way to go in my opinion on larger V bottom. Larger power just seems to precede them.
As long as you have a good set of drives, the gears are good, depends on how much power you're pushing....
Change your drive oil...lets not forget...you're adding a transmission here, and naturally larger power. It's all about how much you're throwing at one. Personally I don't feel there's any problem pushing 1200 on one. Especially if you cryo the gears.
With a repo boat, who knows what you're getting. You want to make sure the gimbals are good, no leaks or bad seals obviously, then on the shaft of the 6s you want to make sure the prop shaft seal is good or you could end up with a drive full of water.
To everyone who knows, every time you change props, USE NEW PROP NUTS, never use the same, or you WILL spin a prop...it's not a matter of if...
If you're pushing under 950hp I personally don't think there is much beyond routine maintenance, gear oil, inspection, service them every season, it's all how much you run the boat and how you take care of it.
Trannies are another story, again if you're under 900, there's not much you need to worry about if you're running a huber/bam...my idea is always been overbuild...run a bam 1500..then you never have to second guess. In that respect, you always want to check your tranny oil. That is the most important thing, period..you can burn them out faster than you can say hooha....then it's engines....I mean this isn't really a fair question, if you're running #6s the cost of ownership goes up because if you're using a #6 you're probably going to have large power behind it...that alone has a major price tag...unless you're content with pushing smaller power...
I mean this is a pretty open ended thing, but maybe that can give you an idea of what you have to do. There is more but I feel I covered the main parts.
Change your drive oil...lets not forget...you're adding a transmission here, and naturally larger power. It's all about how much you're throwing at one. Personally I don't feel there's any problem pushing 1200 on one. Especially if you cryo the gears.
With a repo boat, who knows what you're getting. You want to make sure the gimbals are good, no leaks or bad seals obviously, then on the shaft of the 6s you want to make sure the prop shaft seal is good or you could end up with a drive full of water.
To everyone who knows, every time you change props, USE NEW PROP NUTS, never use the same, or you WILL spin a prop...it's not a matter of if...
If you're pushing under 950hp I personally don't think there is much beyond routine maintenance, gear oil, inspection, service them every season, it's all how much you run the boat and how you take care of it.
Trannies are another story, again if you're under 900, there's not much you need to worry about if you're running a huber/bam...my idea is always been overbuild...run a bam 1500..then you never have to second guess. In that respect, you always want to check your tranny oil. That is the most important thing, period..you can burn them out faster than you can say hooha....then it's engines....I mean this isn't really a fair question, if you're running #6s the cost of ownership goes up because if you're using a #6 you're probably going to have large power behind it...that alone has a major price tag...unless you're content with pushing smaller power...
I mean this is a pretty open ended thing, but maybe that can give you an idea of what you have to do. There is more but I feel I covered the main parts.
06-18-2011 | 09:11 AM
#20
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I was in the boat in the fall of 2009. That was the last time the boat was run by the previous owner. It has been sitting at Pier 1000 inside their showroom since that time. The cockpit upholstery and carpet would need to be replaced to get it back in nice shape. The motors do not have that many hours on them but I would figure a rebuild when cosidering buying the boat. The cabin is just needs to be cleaned. The engine hatch opens and closes a little crooked and needs to be fixed and the paint touched up where it has been rubbing. Overall a good detailing job would bring the exterior to a nice condition. If the boat can be bought right it would make someone a nice piece with some moderate work.
