Cabin Door
 

I was trying to work with the factory to resolve a track problem with the sliding cabin door. I now have to resort to plan B!
I know they tried different designs and need to change or modify mine. So any ideas or suggestions to make this thing work like it should?

Re: Cabin Door
 

what is it doing?

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The bottom track is junk! It's all strpped out and the two pieces (one behind the dash insert and the one at the walk through) do not line up. If I close the door all the way we will be trapped in or out of the cabin.

Re: Cabin Door
 

Join the club Scott, I have the same problem and it requires helm disasembly to get to the poblem. I almost think it is a structural problem. I am going to attack it over the winter and fix permanetly with watever solution seems best including scrapping the whole thing and putting in zippered lether door.

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The door on my boat, 38, and on my last PQ, a 29, closed OK. But they did jump off the bottom track after a hard run, I need to push the bottom in with my toe but then its right back on track so to speak. I think Im the only one with fairly well working doors though. Theu need to make them power with steps to the deck molded in like on a cig. Sorry I cant be more help, good luck.

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Mig,
I was planning on putting a access hatch or door in the head and trying to work on it that way. But my problem is that I don't want to work on it or feel that I should be every friggin summer like I have in the past! I have re-worked the slider blocks in the door that had the very small screws holding them in. So I drilled and tapped to a larger size and used Loc-Tite. That did solve that problem but now the track let go again with no good way of keeping it from failing (I used all of my screw options) So now what? I'm thinking of some type of thin wheel design on the bottom?
I hope that we can come up with a permanent fix especially now that were all on our own out here without any factory support :mad:

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One other thing that may help us out, someone else made the door and track for PQ so who was it and what is their contact info? Any of you X PQ guys have the info?

Thanks

Re: Cabin Door
 

PQ Parts Supplier
 

The subject of the cabin door got my attention. Thanks for the source. My door frame is separating from the panel...so I may need to contact them.

Given that PQ may or may not resume operation would it be a good idea to start a thread to get everyone's input on part sources for our boats?

We know now about the doors. And canvas - Canvas Outfitters in Holland. What about the uplostery, hatches, windshield, windsheild frame inserts, and other parts.

Is this worthwhile to do?

Jeff

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Thank You!

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PQ PARTS

Relative to the door issue --- I had a 1999 28 and currentlly have a 1999 34 and a 2001 38. None of them have or had any issues with the doors not working well or comming off the tracks. They do tend to raddle when open but all have opperated well.
Relative to other parts the windshields are made by Taylor Made. You can contact them directlly for glass and moldings. I know as I bought one.

Re: Cabin Door
 

Buy a Cigarette ?







Sorry PQ guys !....Scott started it !! :evilb: :D :drink:

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What are you talking about I don't know who you are and don't see any evidence of attack in this section!










































Ass!
:drink:

Re: Cabin Door
 

You might be able to find who built the door assembly for PQ and contact them. They maybe able to help.

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Please read the thread MK gave us the info!

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I'm awiting a call on some foot rails and should be able to get a name for the guy that did all the interior work for PQ. I still don't think we'll have a problem with the factory. It's just a matter of time before the doors are open again.

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:eureka:

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:crazy:
:crazy:

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I have a friend that has a 2004 300 revenge that appears to be coming apart.
The cabin door constantly gets stuck/jammed, the bolster seat panels seperated/fell off, the microwave door fell off, the screw from the sun pad are coming through the vinyl, the bow light, horn, and blower are all not working.
After one trip to Ocean City the wind shield screws sheared off and the wind shield is now coming off too. The helm bulk head cracked wear it attaches to the starboard side gunale.
Finally this fall the starboard Bravo popped inside and is stuck in forward.
Before putting away for the winter we noticed some normal stress cracks.
All work is to be fixed under warranty, but the dealer is trying to talk him out of fixing all the cracks from the bulk head on the exterior and in the paint.

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Ouch!!!!! :( :(

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Yea, pretty disappointing for a $150k plus boat. Would not recommend buying another 300 revenge. Maybe their other models are better??????????????????????????

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There's a couple 30's in my area and both owners love them and have no issues like the ones you've listed. The 30 is what will more than likely be our next move unless we can make the jump to the 34.

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He boats mostly in the upper Chesapeake bay and has trailered it down to Ocean City Md once. Most of the damage occurred in Ocean City. The boat runs exceptionally well on a 1-2 foot chop or less, really liks flat. Anymore than a 2' chop and you get pretty beat-up and have to slow it down to keep it in the water. The twin step gives the boat a lot of lift, speed on flat, but airs the boat out in a chop. Running in 2' or bigger chop 4000 or higher rpm prepare to listen to the rpm buzzer. His boat runs in the 70's easy and might get close to 78-80 running it all out. He spinning bravo 1 28 pitch and cruises at about 4000-4500 all the time.
I have good things about these boats at the shows, but never see them on the water, other his.

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Scott,

What did you find out about your door. I finally got around to working on mine yesterday and determined that the bottom roller assembly is the culprit. I, like you, have grown weary of repairing and making right what should have been right in the first place. Add normal Maint to the mix and you are constantly working on the boat. Now I just have to determine which surgery to perform to gain access and whether it is worth it. Incedently, I suspect my bottom tracks never lined up from day one and this put a lot of pressure on the roller assembly but the door still fuctioned ntil the rollers shattered. Initially I thought it shifted butafter observing new boats from the factory they all looked misaligned. The fact that some folks have never had a problem I believe is related to there primary running environment.

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I have not been to the boat yet to do any work. Not too sure why they used a split track design at least the one piece would not jam up the door if it came loose. My door uses hard plastic sliders that fit into the track. I had problems with them coming loose from the door but after re-tapping with bigger screws and using loc-tite the track became the target!
I'm thinking about going in through the head and adding a slam hatch access they are available from a place in Texas (better and cheaper than West marine) Slam Access hatch

I talked to a Powerquest factory guy for quite some time at the Cleveland boat show he was familiar with the issues and they were considering adding on a second hasp or locking device to hold the top of the door tight.

BTW the factory guy was presently employed with the new owner from what I could understand and he had nothing negative to say. I also saw Ryan a X PQ employ from way back but did not get a chance to talk with him and I'm not too sure who he was representing. Guess I should throw this in the factory thread but my info is sketchy and I am not into the rumor thing. Give me facts!

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I spoke with a owner of a older 28 that has not had any problems with door or any other major components.

Problem appears to reflect quality control, both parts and labor in past recent years. Possibly due to poorly managed and run manufacturing... money problems!

If you guys come-up with a good fix please post so that I relay to friend that owns a 300 revenge with a jammed/broken door presently.

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Do me a favor and ask your 300 Revenge friend if he runs with the door open or closed and let me know.

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Every time I have been on the boat he runs with it closed and he claims to always keep it closed while running. When he comes to a stop he can't get the door open and if he does then it falls off the track or gets stuck open. Several times we have found screws loose laying around in both the track and on the cabin floor.

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He also mentioned to me that he probably will not be taking the boat to Ocean City, Md ever again... too rough. Too many things broke apart after riding in the Ocean.

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Although the loose screws (should re-tap and use loc-tite) should not happen. He or any performance boater should not run with a sliding cabin door closed. This puts way too much stress on the door and lock area (prone to cracking)

Re: Cabin Door
 

Thanks. I will relay this to him and hopefully this will resolve his problem.

You mentioned that performance boat doors should always be left in the open position to reduce the amount of stress. How about if the door swings open, not on slider? Would you still recommend keeping it open while cruising then or should it be closed? I had always been told to keep it closed to eliminate stress and possibly swing close and damage.

We will re-tap and loctite his screws soon as weather permits. Thanks again!

Re: Cabin Door
 

I agree with Mactimes earlier post concerning performance figures on the 300 Revenge. I have owned mine for two years now. We always run with the door in the open and latched position (or totally closed). I have never had it come off track yet. Looking into where the door is stored, I am concerned about stuff, junk, dirt etc getting into the track and being almost impossible to clean out. Thanks to this discussion, I will investigate a latch for the top of the door and will be looking at the screws real close.

As for the rest of Mactime's friends Revenge problems, I agree with Mig, probably the environment. We boat on a Corp lake and it is positioned predominately north and south, so it is rough a lot but not normally more that a foot or two. However, I have ALWAYS made sure the door was open and latched or closed and secured. It never is left to slide by itself.

On another note, we are having some scratches fixed today.....boy is this going to be an expensive day!!! Ouch.

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What power do have and speeds are you seeing with your 300 revenge? Let's see some pictures.

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No I was talking about sliders like Formula,PQ and others use. The split swing doors should be closed like Fountain uses.

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Mactime, We have run 78 and some change when prop testing. I have the props away getting worked on right now and the first report was one was slightly deformed(?). Never heard of that. It is interesting to note that one engine always turned about 100-150 more RPM. I cannot wait to test again.

Here is a picture of our boat:

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Called these guys yesterday for door parts. Very helpful and had just what I needed to replace upper glides for a 97 Avenger. Thanks for the link MK

TTT

I have finally started this project. Last year I had to quit boating projects do to a move that ended up happening in July (man did that suck)

Anyway I cut the hole giving me full access to the area behind the helm. I'm thinking of just using 4200 to fasten the rear track and hold the front in with longer screws through the back of the channel. This way I can still replace or repair the door glides if they fail.

I did have a long talk with Dennis (the guy from the company that made it) He pulled out the drawings and I could tell he was not at all happy with the two piece track design not to mention their fastening system. Very helpful and ready to send parts if needed.

If anyone has some input or experience with this Speak up!:D

Scott, Did you cut your access hole through the storage locker inside the cabin??

the door that came with my 96 was junk. factory said they changed doors. I switched mine to the new version door they were using before they shutdown and it has held up much better then the pos that came with it.

Inside the head behind the helm