Has anyone every had any bottom work done on a 260?
 

I am tossing around the idea of having the bottem tweaked on the 260 I just bought. My boat guy says it can probably be done for between 1500 and 3 K. I really like the boat I just bought...just sitten their lookin at it! My guy thinks the issues talked about before can be solved so that the boat can cut loose and get in the 80's. What do you guys think?

You maybe entering new territory on the 26? I've heard of a few guys with the larger PQ's having bottom work done. What are you going to have done?? Has the guy seen the boat yet or did you just describe the bottom over the phone?

Just in the thinking about it stage now. Basically take the hook out and address the anti-porposing crap molded in the hull. He has not seen the boat yet...says he thinks it can be done. Am hoping to get a lot of feedback on this. I certainly don't wanna take much of a risk and F up the boat!

I love a sleeper! Would love to see the faces of those in the know when a powerquest flies by doin better than 80!

So, you remove the hook and then the boat porpoises horribly. Then what do you do? You add K-planes and drag them to keep the nose from bouncing which scubs speed. In the end, how much do you gain?

I would like to know why the boat would porpose so badly? That just doesn't make since! Is the boat out of balance?

The shingle in the rear keeps the boat from porpoising!
If it didnt why wouldnt the factory remove it

I was to understand the rockers were put into place to allow the hull to plan much faster without the need of tabs. Which I mite ad works very well. I to be honest very rarely use my tabs other than if it gets pretty rough. I've seen several 26's without tabs. As for the hook I'd have to but a straight edge on mine to see if there is one. If so it would interesting to see what would happen if it were removed. I wonder if thats why the 26 gets loose at top speed in flat waters?? Dancing on the hook.....................

I don't think the hook is in the water above 70. We did some testing on a 260 and you will need to drive it to keep from chime walking at speed in smooth water. The one we worked on did not have tabs, but had hydraulic steering assist.

I would set how far toward the keel the hook goes. As FastFoward said, maybe the chime walk is from hitting on the hooks from side to side.

I believe at one time there was a thread on OSO that adressed why boat's porpoise and what the manufactures do to the hulls to eliminate it. I don't know of anyone or have read of anyone modifying a 260 PQ hull. I do know of somone that took similar style hull and made the modifications you are thinking of making and they were less than pleased with the results. In the end, the only way to know for sure how the bottom will react is to find someone that knows what they are doing and make the changes. I would just have a hard time doing this to my boat not knowing what the outcome may be. Instead, I would find a faster hull boat. PQ's were never known as a fast hull. If you do decide to modify the bottom, please post your results. Good luck!

Thanks for the well wishes. I, like you do not want to take a chance. That is why I posted this question. I had hoped that perhaps someone had done something similiar. I would definately drop 2 or 3K if this project would work. I already have all the other ingedients I need(full hydraulic steering,600+HP procharged 454) and the desire to have a solid 80MPH boat! I will say I didn't realize the hull would be limited to 70! Even if I did I probably still would've bought the boat! Just tossin around some ideas and trying to decide which direction I wanna go.

I talked to Velocity a little...thought about buying a new 28 without power(He thought it would run in 88-92MPH range with my power). Had one an order had been cancelled on but he wasn't hungry enough to make it fit my budget! :D That boat weighs basically the same as the Powerquest. I am very curious as to what the big differences in the hull design are.
Please bear with me as I am learning and listening very closely as I go!

LOL :D


A manufacturer with the reputation PQ has did not put that hook there for no reason. Good manufacturers balance performance, handling and speed. Taking it out of a 38 is one thing considering the boat has the hull to accomodate that change. I would call on some PQ factory folks, some post out here, that could help provide input.

On the point about them not coming into play at 70 - check where the hook is at. It will be in the far aft portion of the hull. Then see where is exists side to side. Is it only from the chine to the outer strake? If so, it plays more of a role for getting on plane, and much lesser role when running 60+.. If it comes into play from the outer strake to the keel, you can bet it is in play when you are running above 60 mph.

Mentalpause...This is exactly the type of feedback I am looking for! If the difference between all the different hulls is an inch or 2 then I feel anything can happen with the right guy doing the work. What do you think?

Knot 4 Me is dead on. You might remove the hook and end up having to compensate with tabs or something else. I would start by finding out from the PQ engineers why the hook is there in the first place, and find out exactly where on the surface it exists.

Good luck.

Best bet would be to find out who built that mold as the new folks at PQ more than likely won't have a clue. For some reason I was thinking it was a company in Florida but I could be wrong. As for The Velocity that boat runs a pad if I'm not mistaken and has a completely different hull design than a PQ. I to looked at the Velocities several times but they just don't have what I need in a boat. I don't have access to my 26 right now so I'm wondering where this hook is at???

between the chine and outer strake,about the last foot

Then it is primarily there to help the hole shot. Take it out and all you accomplish is longer time to plane and added stress on the drive. As Rbtnt said, it should not come into play much at top speeds.

I agree

So what is it in the hull design that is holding it back? People have posted here that that a 260 will bearly break 70 with 600 horses...yet with a 425 Horse it will run mid to upper 60's! Just doesn't make sense to me.

That would not be considered a hook. That would be the rocker. Thats a pretty major removal as that thing is pretty large.Once on plan it has no effect as it's not even in the water.

From what I'm to understand the 26 has a low X dimension the drive adding to the drag. If that could be raised it may help with some speed. Once again I don't think PQ ever designed this to be fast hull.Simply solid and predictable and thats what it is. I'd be happy if I could run 65 to be honest. But until the 454 mag EFI shows signs of tiring I'll have to settle for 60.

Hmmmmm...so has anyone ever tried a shorty? Or will that just make it a btch to get on plane? The draft does seem a bit deep at 36 inches....same as almost all PQ's including their big cruiser!(provided their specs on their websight are correct)

Take a 6 or 8 foot straight-edge and in the section of the hull between the keel and the inner-most strake run the straight edge from the transom towards the bow of the boat. If you have any gap between the straight-edge and the bottom, you have a hook.

Read the 5th post in this thread by Brett at BBlades. Brett used to work for Mercury and knows his stuff.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...light=porpoise

Bottoms are probably simillar and therefore results might be too.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...d.php?t=151371

Wow! Thanks for the link...looks like a shortie is probably the best bang for the buck! I wanna get the bottem checked 1st...Plan on taking it in a getting it serviced,etc. I'll get my guy to straight edge it!

One of the guys on this forum swaped out his stock bravo drive for an Imco shorty on a 27 Laser. I don't recall the results. If you get a chance let me know what you see once you put a straight edge on the bottom. I'm really curious to see if theres a hook or not.

I'm not exactly sure when I will get the boat in. He's got my Pachanga right now. Doesn't look like anyones interested in my just broken in Procharged 454 so I might go ahead and finish my Pachanga project. This envolves tabs, prop work,and the hydraulic steering I bought. Really chewing my lip about this as I really don't need 2 boats! But...I will have a nice reasonably fast cruiser and a flat out haul ass boat if I do! :D I wouldn't hesitate to own both if I lived on the water...I'm a trailer boater. Know anyone interested in a nice Pachanga 22 or a 454 built from the inside out for a procharger with 50 hours on it? Might even sell the procharger set up seperately. I'll definately let ya know what we find out about the hull! Just might be a few months.

Pq 260 Xl
 

I had my '98 26 PQ for almost 9 years and it was powered by a stock 502. Top speed was around the 65 mph mark. With the 23 degree deadrise and lighter weight I wouldn't want to go any faster unless you had some serious tabs in the back to control it. Mine would never porpouise at all under any condition. What it would do is start to bounce from chine to chine. Scary, you really had to have good throttle control. Knowing this I would find it tough to see that hull design at 80! Hope your plans work out and you achieve your goal, safely!

you should give chris mills at extreme body works a call. he has been talking to to the eds at powerboat on doing a before and after on blueprinting a hull. he just finished up a blue print on a older 25 predator. the hook your talking about probibly was not molded in, could have formed form your trailer or some other form of storage thats not supporting the transome good enuf. the shorty your talking about needs some sirious disscusions with imco. the low x on your boat is most likely for bow lift. you will most likely need an extension box for your boat to ride correct. hope this helps

I realize a 23 Nova and 26 PQ are two completely hulls but thought I'd throw this into the conversation as it may help. My Nova has the hook near the transom. Don't know if it's similar to the PQ hook as I've not had the opportunity to check a PQ hull out. Think I mentioned this in another PQ thread but, in relation to the chine walk, my Nova started chine walking in the low/mid 60's and would continue and get worse on up to +70 GPS. It would get scary bad, and I was not able to "drive through it". Throttle Up tweaked my 25 Mirage Plus and the walk was completely gone after that. I've had the Nova a tad over 73 on GPS with no walk at all. That said, it might be worth discussing prop work with Throttle Up or the prop shop of your choice.

So whats the verdict on the hull?? Does she have a hook??

I guess you didn't see my earlier post. It will probably be Spring before I do I anything. That is unless someone buys the motor from my Pachanga or the Pachanga. I'm gonna bump my thread in the swap section after the 1st of the year. If I don't don't get any responses I'm gonna have my boat guy finish the Pachanga project! Hydraulic Steering,Tabs,Exhaust! I figure if I blow buy somma these guys in a pristine 87 Pachanga doin 90 give or take someone will want it! :D After that I will do more research! I have been following the Hull Hydromatics? thread very closely! We will see!

Probably take some decent power to push that hull to 90. Just like the sibling Envision...they are awesome rough water boats but the hull is not very efficient.

I had a 454 Built from top to bottom for the procharger setup. It has a conservative 600HP. Probably more if I decide to let the RPM's loose. I hope I can keep the RPM's under 5500 and do what I want it to do. The setup is supposed to be good to 6000 or a bit more but I figure that will shorten the life a bit!