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Hatch lift & actuator for 380

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Old 05-15-2009, 04:40 PM
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Default Hatch lift & actuator for 380

Does anyone know the make/model of the actuator on the engine hatch lift on the 380 and where to get one? It's a 2000 model. The actuator currently on it has absolutely no external markings on it anywhere. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick
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Old 05-16-2009, 09:56 AM
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Hello Nick, I just bought one from CP Performance and am very happy with it. It is easy to install, took me 15 minutes. go to http://www.cpperformance.com/searchR...categoryID=455
I bought model 620-920024 it is the 24" polished and looks great. I did buy two brackets, but depending on how you want to do it you may only need one, that is all I ended using. I used the new one on the Hatch its self, the lower one Would not mout correctly if you want to use the same mounting holes, so I cut down the bracket that came with the boat and it used the old holes and works great. The new lift goes up and down very well.

Hope this helps you make a decission, call CP and ask for Brad he gives OSO memvers a discount as well. Let me know if you have any questions,


Rich.
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Old 05-17-2009, 07:29 AM
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Hey thanks a lot Rich. Looks like what I need. One question, how was it to wire? Looks like a little different set up than what's on there right now. Thanks again, Nick
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Old 05-17-2009, 10:00 PM
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It is pretty simple they send you a new wire plug for both ends that is water proof. It is a great system, I am very happy with it I feel you would be as well. Good luck in what ever you buy,


Rich.
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Old 05-25-2009, 07:27 PM
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Hey Nick,
I don't know if your lift isn't working at all or if it's just really slow like mine was? If it's just really slow, I have a solution rather than spending your bucks on a fresh actuater. I have a 280 silencer, and ever since I got it the lift sucked!!! Just recenty I had the dash apart and noticed that al the positve wires were at least 10 gauge. However, the ground wire was really small and was looped from switch to switch to switch... So I ran a 10 gauge wire right from the battery (NEGATIVE) to the switch and it made a huge difference and now works great!! Bill
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Old 05-30-2009, 08:34 AM
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Nick,
After fiddling with the now infamous P.O.S. hatch ram on my 380 I got one of these for $275:
http://www.hardin-marine.com/detail~ID~156.aspx

I wondered why I didn't have it earlier. The factory unit is crap, don't waste your time trying to get it to work, once you take it off and look it over you'll see what I mean! i would also recommend adding 2 of these relays and 1 relay socket from Parts Express:

socket: $4.90
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/psho...number=330-078

relays: $2.89 a piece
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/psho...number=330-079

The way it's wired from the factory all the way to the helm switch and back, there's a BIG voltage drop, plus the wire is to small for that long of a run and the switch gets to much juice run through it, it's a bad situation made worse with a lousy lift ram.

I'll try and find the post on here that shows how to wire the relay and post a link to it.
All the best,
Paul

Nick, I found the old post on the hatch relays and how to wire 'em, it's actually pretty simple, heck, I even did it!
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/p...h-relay-2.html

Last edited by boathead; 05-30-2009 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 06-01-2009, 09:56 AM
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Thanks guys, haven't done anything yet, but need to. I have to have someone hold the button and I assist it up by hand. Brand new batteries in the boat and they're fully charged. The worst spot is right at first, once it gets going it usually will go up on it's own, but really slowly. It's always been slow, but this year is real bad.
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