290 Enticer fx front engine access
#1
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Joined: Mar 2016
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From: Glenview, IL
Not sure if this will help anyone but here it goes. I blew a power steering return line the other day, it was the line between actuator and power steering cooler found the hose bent and against the engine mount ended up cutting the line. Dealer wanted to lift the engine for access. So after looking I decided to to remove the fire wall, here's how it went
1) Remove center seat back all screws in engine compartment and side gunnels.
2) Remove seat hinge screws, remember to mark hinge location.
3) Remove side arm rests and steps, 3 nuts located up under rail 2 accessed from engine compartment and one from side storage.
4) Support hatch and remove ram lift
5) Almost forgot make sure negative battery terminals are disconnected, now remove the battery switch, mark all wires and disconnect them.as well as all others,( I think on reassembly I am going to notch bottom of firewall so that in the future I can lift out the board and leave wires.) remove all cable clamps and put screws back in so its easier to reinstall. remove large screws from along bottom of fire wall.
Now I have full access to front of engine, pumps, alternator, spark plugs, wires wide open I will try to post pics if I can figure out how to, all in with the learning curve I was at 2 hours. I was able to see cooler hoses, clean bilge, reach and service pumps etc. Well I hope this helps others .
1996 PowerQuest 290 Enticer 7.4L EFI/MPI Bravo 1
1) Remove center seat back all screws in engine compartment and side gunnels.
2) Remove seat hinge screws, remember to mark hinge location.
3) Remove side arm rests and steps, 3 nuts located up under rail 2 accessed from engine compartment and one from side storage.
4) Support hatch and remove ram lift
5) Almost forgot make sure negative battery terminals are disconnected, now remove the battery switch, mark all wires and disconnect them.as well as all others,( I think on reassembly I am going to notch bottom of firewall so that in the future I can lift out the board and leave wires.) remove all cable clamps and put screws back in so its easier to reinstall. remove large screws from along bottom of fire wall.
Now I have full access to front of engine, pumps, alternator, spark plugs, wires wide open I will try to post pics if I can figure out how to, all in with the learning curve I was at 2 hours. I was able to see cooler hoses, clean bilge, reach and service pumps etc. Well I hope this helps others .
1996 PowerQuest 290 Enticer 7.4L EFI/MPI Bravo 1
Last edited by frank4406; 06-22-2016 at 06:46 PM.
#2
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From: Bradford Ontario
Photos would be great I have the same boat but a 1999 model year ...working on the front of the motors is a nightmare unless doing what you did ...I am half way thru changing the swivel pin on the gimbal ring on the starboard side it was leaking water into the bilge ....
#3
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Joined: Mar 2016
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From: Glenview, IL
Those are a pain, Mine are done both sides used the J-R Marine kit and mailed him the gimbels to rebuild came out good. Now I get water thru the Corsa exhaust hoses when in quiet mode always something. I had to do a lot to this boat, the guy prior to me didn't take care, mainly a solid cleaning and maintenance both engines have been replaced prior one new,one rebuild. Icant get the pics up send me a email I will foward you some.
On a side note dockrocker if you read this get ahold of me please, its your old 290fx I would like a little history Thanks
On a side note dockrocker if you read this get ahold of me please, its your old 290fx I would like a little history Thanks
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Frank4406-
Thanks for posting this. I have a 2001 Enticer with 6.2's. Engine access is a *****. Last year I replaced solenoids on the starboard side and had my hands full. This year I'm rebuilding both sea water pumps, changing fuel separators, cleaning the bilge and replacing cap/rotor and spark plugs. I plan to use the process that you did. I knew there had to be an easier way.
Thanks for posting this. I have a 2001 Enticer with 6.2's. Engine access is a *****. Last year I replaced solenoids on the starboard side and had my hands full. This year I'm rebuilding both sea water pumps, changing fuel separators, cleaning the bilge and replacing cap/rotor and spark plugs. I plan to use the process that you did. I knew there had to be an easier way.




