290 Questions
04-09-2022, 07:57 AM
#1
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290 Questions
I have a 1995 - 290 Enticer and am in the process of upgrading the engines. Looking to add about 200 hp per engine. Just like everyone else has commented, my boat was also a handful at WOT (63 mph) with the old steering and 3 blade props. Switched to full hydraulic and 4 blades and its very solid now. I asked an engineer about chine walk and he suggested that aluminum heads and intake may help reduce the chine walk because less mass up high would have less influence on the boat. Is there anyone on here with a 290 that has tried this? My goal is not necessarily to run in the 80's (although it would be nice) but I do want to be in the 70's. My current cruise speed is 50 at 3500rpm and WOT is a solid 60. These are GPS numbers. I would like to be around 60 at 3500 and WOT in the 70's. My current props are Bravo 1 - 24 pitch and running WOT the rpm was I believe around 4400. Any thoughts on what pitch I might use if I added the 200 hp per engine? This is just FYI, I have purchased the aluminum air gap intakes, my AFR 265cc aluminum heads are still on backorder but due in May. I bought Comp Cams Extreme Marine hydraulic rollers. 230/236 @ .050 and .547 lift. Also bought the Quick Fuel 800 carburetors. I have the EMI Thunder exhaust too. Still running the stock Bravo 1's.
04-09-2022, 09:26 AM
#2
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welll...this has to be the first time I've seen someone think chine-walk can be reduced by lowering the mass/weight of the intake system...
The boats I have been around that exhibited SEVERE chine walk usually had some play in the steering...which you may have addressed with the full hydraulic system you now have. You don't mention if your boat has trim tabs, is so how big are they? ANY issue with the hull (rocker/hook/etc) can be a contributing factor or even THE factor.
And you want to go faster in a boat that is already seemingly unstable? An old (and somewhat dangerous adage) about chine walking has been, "Just power through it", and once again, in my experience that usually doesn't work.
My old Baja 208 was a severe handful above 60 mph...it had only a 17 degree deadrise and of course was only 21' long; at those speeds and higher there just wasn't much of the hull in the water. And while it would tickle 70 mph, as I got older and wiser I just...didn't go there anymore, even on glass-like inland lakes.
This post from years ago talks about a tendency to chine walk...so it may simply be in the hull design, and exacerbated by how the boat is balanced with weight forward or backward.
powerquest 290 enticer - Offshoreonly.com
The boats I have been around that exhibited SEVERE chine walk usually had some play in the steering...which you may have addressed with the full hydraulic system you now have. You don't mention if your boat has trim tabs, is so how big are they? ANY issue with the hull (rocker/hook/etc) can be a contributing factor or even THE factor.
And you want to go faster in a boat that is already seemingly unstable? An old (and somewhat dangerous adage) about chine walking has been, "Just power through it", and once again, in my experience that usually doesn't work.
My old Baja 208 was a severe handful above 60 mph...it had only a 17 degree deadrise and of course was only 21' long; at those speeds and higher there just wasn't much of the hull in the water. And while it would tickle 70 mph, as I got older and wiser I just...didn't go there anymore, even on glass-like inland lakes.
This post from years ago talks about a tendency to chine walk...so it may simply be in the hull design, and exacerbated by how the boat is balanced with weight forward or backward.
powerquest 290 enticer - Offshoreonly.com
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Baja 252 Islander
Baja 252 Islander
04-09-2022, 11:12 AM
#3
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well...this is not the first time I have encountered someone who makes fun of something they don't understand. I talked about decreasing the weight and lowering the center of gravity by swapping out very heavy cast iron pieces for aluminum. Whatever the cast iron weighs, the aluminum is approx. half the weight!! Even though you have not tried this approach you already know it won't work. Interesting.
I said that he said it MAY help. He didn't know for certain and neither do you. You do mention in your reply about "how the boat is balanced with weight forward or backward" so you too think that weight may have something to do with the problem. I believe weight can also go up and down not only back to front.
I never said severe chine walk but I did say that after the steering and propeller upgrades, that it is now very stable. So what I mean is that there is no longer any chine walk. Very safe. I am now asking about going faster in a boat with no problems. Lol!!! Just power through it was something I never tried.
It does have trim tabs. Standard ones from Bennett. They are 12" wide and about 13" deep. I did use them before to settle the boat when it used to chine walk but it is not necessary any longer because there is no chine walk. None at all.
The hull does have the turned down chine at the rear. Like built in trim tabs. I had this conversation with someone else a while ago. My thought is that these really don't effect the chine walk because at WOT they are not in the water. To be more clear, if you follow a boat that is going WOT you will notice that outer most part of the bottom of the boat (chines) are not in contact with the water. If there is no contact then I fail to see how they would affect the ride or produce chine walk. Now if my boat begins to chine walk, then maybe these "hooks" or whatever you would call them may cause the chine walk to increase. This is what I think. Not a fact. Just my thought on the subject. I do not have a video of my boat going WOT to verify. Maybe mine are in the water all of the time.
I am quite certain that the hull design is the reason for the chine walk. It's a heavy and tall sided boat. It must be a real expensive fix because Powerquest instead of correcting the problem with this hull, went ahead and built a whole new 30' boat. This new boat if memory serves me, started at $130k.
I think the final year for the 290 they advertised it for sale as 70mph for $70k. I feel that I will be fine if I am close to this factory claim. I was really hoping to hear from someone who has swapped out the heavy cast iron stuff for aluminum and what was their outcome. I am going to find out hopefully this season. As I mentioned, I am still waiting on the heads. I will post the results.
Thanks for your reply and input.
I said that he said it MAY help. He didn't know for certain and neither do you. You do mention in your reply about "how the boat is balanced with weight forward or backward" so you too think that weight may have something to do with the problem. I believe weight can also go up and down not only back to front.
I never said severe chine walk but I did say that after the steering and propeller upgrades, that it is now very stable. So what I mean is that there is no longer any chine walk. Very safe. I am now asking about going faster in a boat with no problems. Lol!!! Just power through it was something I never tried.
It does have trim tabs. Standard ones from Bennett. They are 12" wide and about 13" deep. I did use them before to settle the boat when it used to chine walk but it is not necessary any longer because there is no chine walk. None at all.
The hull does have the turned down chine at the rear. Like built in trim tabs. I had this conversation with someone else a while ago. My thought is that these really don't effect the chine walk because at WOT they are not in the water. To be more clear, if you follow a boat that is going WOT you will notice that outer most part of the bottom of the boat (chines) are not in contact with the water. If there is no contact then I fail to see how they would affect the ride or produce chine walk. Now if my boat begins to chine walk, then maybe these "hooks" or whatever you would call them may cause the chine walk to increase. This is what I think. Not a fact. Just my thought on the subject. I do not have a video of my boat going WOT to verify. Maybe mine are in the water all of the time.
I am quite certain that the hull design is the reason for the chine walk. It's a heavy and tall sided boat. It must be a real expensive fix because Powerquest instead of correcting the problem with this hull, went ahead and built a whole new 30' boat. This new boat if memory serves me, started at $130k.
I think the final year for the 290 they advertised it for sale as 70mph for $70k. I feel that I will be fine if I am close to this factory claim. I was really hoping to hear from someone who has swapped out the heavy cast iron stuff for aluminum and what was their outcome. I am going to find out hopefully this season. As I mentioned, I am still waiting on the heads. I will post the results.
Thanks for your reply and input.
04-09-2022, 11:21 AM
#4
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iTrader: (6)
........what are your current engines ?
Last edited by F-2 Speedy; 04-10-2022 at 08:40 AM.
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SB (04-10-2022)
04-09-2022, 11:39 AM
#5
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well...this is not the first time I have encountered someone who makes fun of something they don't understand. I talked about decreasing the weight and lowering the center of gravity by swapping out very heavy cast iron pieces for aluminum. Whatever the cast iron weighs, the aluminum is approx. half the weight!! Even though you have not tried this approach you already know it won't work. Interesting.
I said that he said it MAY help. He didn't know for certain and neither do you. You do mention in your reply about "how the boat is balanced with weight forward or backward" so you too think that weight may have something to do with the problem. I believe weight can also go up and down not only back to front.
I never said severe chine walk but I did say that after the steering and propeller upgrades, that it is now very stable. So what I mean is that there is no longer any chine walk. Very safe. I am now asking about going faster in a boat with no problems. Lol!!! Just power through it was something I never tried.
It does have trim tabs. Standard ones from Bennett. They are 12" wide and about 13" deep. I did use them before to settle the boat when it used to chine walk but it is not necessary any longer because there is no chine walk. None at all.
The hull does have the turned down chine at the rear. Like built in trim tabs. I had this conversation with someone else a while ago. My thought is that these really don't effect the chine walk because at WOT they are not in the water. To be more clear, if you follow a boat that is going WOT you will notice that outer most part of the bottom of the boat (chines) are not in contact with the water. If there is no contact then I fail to see how they would affect the ride or produce chine walk. Now if my boat begins to chine walk, then maybe these "hooks" or whatever you would call them may cause the chine walk to increase. This is what I think. Not a fact. Just my thought on the subject. I do not have a video of my boat going WOT to verify. Maybe mine are in the water all of the time.
I am quite certain that the hull design is the reason for the chine walk. It's a heavy and tall sided boat. It must be a real expensive fix because Powerquest instead of correcting the problem with this hull, went ahead and built a whole new 30' boat. This new boat if memory serves me, started at $130k.
I think the final year for the 290 they advertised it for sale as 70mph for $70k. I feel that I will be fine if I am close to this factory claim. I was really hoping to hear from someone who has swapped out the heavy cast iron stuff for aluminum and what was their outcome. I am going to find out hopefully this season. As I mentioned, I am still waiting on the heads. I will post the results.
Thanks for your reply and input.
I said that he said it MAY help. He didn't know for certain and neither do you. You do mention in your reply about "how the boat is balanced with weight forward or backward" so you too think that weight may have something to do with the problem. I believe weight can also go up and down not only back to front.
I never said severe chine walk but I did say that after the steering and propeller upgrades, that it is now very stable. So what I mean is that there is no longer any chine walk. Very safe. I am now asking about going faster in a boat with no problems. Lol!!! Just power through it was something I never tried.
It does have trim tabs. Standard ones from Bennett. They are 12" wide and about 13" deep. I did use them before to settle the boat when it used to chine walk but it is not necessary any longer because there is no chine walk. None at all.
The hull does have the turned down chine at the rear. Like built in trim tabs. I had this conversation with someone else a while ago. My thought is that these really don't effect the chine walk because at WOT they are not in the water. To be more clear, if you follow a boat that is going WOT you will notice that outer most part of the bottom of the boat (chines) are not in contact with the water. If there is no contact then I fail to see how they would affect the ride or produce chine walk. Now if my boat begins to chine walk, then maybe these "hooks" or whatever you would call them may cause the chine walk to increase. This is what I think. Not a fact. Just my thought on the subject. I do not have a video of my boat going WOT to verify. Maybe mine are in the water all of the time.
I am quite certain that the hull design is the reason for the chine walk. It's a heavy and tall sided boat. It must be a real expensive fix because Powerquest instead of correcting the problem with this hull, went ahead and built a whole new 30' boat. This new boat if memory serves me, started at $130k.
I think the final year for the 290 they advertised it for sale as 70mph for $70k. I feel that I will be fine if I am close to this factory claim. I was really hoping to hear from someone who has swapped out the heavy cast iron stuff for aluminum and what was their outcome. I am going to find out hopefully this season. As I mentioned, I am still waiting on the heads. I will post the results.
Thanks for your reply and input.
__________________
Baja 252 Islander
Baja 252 Islander
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SB (04-09-2022)
04-09-2022, 12:39 PM
#6
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Mechanical engineer. His name is Rich. Stock 7.4's.
04-09-2022, 12:40 PM
#7
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I apologize for not taking your response to heart. Thanks again for your help.
04-09-2022, 01:36 PM
#8
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Well, I'm sure there's a more ridiculous idea out there. They are afraid to ask because people may make fun of them. Yes to the pump. I was thinking it might be a good idea.
04-09-2022, 01:38 PM
#9
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I'm changing the engine components for more speed. There might be an additional benefit of reducing the chine walk. That's the question.
04-09-2022, 01:47 PM
#10
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I didn't mean to imply that the engineer said that this was the only problem with my boat and chine walk or that this was the solution. I said I was going to upgrade the engine with new heads cam and intake and he had made the comment that switching to aluminum parts, lowering the overall mass of each engine, MAY help decrease the chine walk.
