PERKO Battery Switches
#1
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PERKO Battery Switches
BillR, VYP340, Macklin.........
How did the factory wire your battery switches. I've ran both of mine in ALL for 2 seasons. I was changing my outdrive gear oil today and re-read some of the manual and it clearly states "Do Not Use All".
I tested, each switch in#1 no power, each switch in#2 had power, is #2 and ALL the same? Are these cross-linked at all?
Thanks
ps. are you guy's seeing lots of metal shavings in your XR's? Mine is an 01 and Merc. shipped with straight Bravo's and look great. Some friends are seeing LOTS of shavings on the drain plug.
How did the factory wire your battery switches. I've ran both of mine in ALL for 2 seasons. I was changing my outdrive gear oil today and re-read some of the manual and it clearly states "Do Not Use All".
I tested, each switch in#1 no power, each switch in#2 had power, is #2 and ALL the same? Are these cross-linked at all?
Thanks
ps. are you guy's seeing lots of metal shavings in your XR's? Mine is an 01 and Merc. shipped with straight Bravo's and look great. Some friends are seeing LOTS of shavings on the drain plug.
#2
Registered
Kentz, you are NOT supposed to run the switches in the all position....or with both on the same number. We run ours with the port in the #1 and the starboard in the #2 position. I have a write up Mark Winia sent up that describes how the wiring is routed to each switch and to each motor. Applicable for the 340 and 380's only. If you would like a copy post your email address up here and I will email it to you.
BTW, check both of your switches for power even when turned off. I had one bad from the factory. The starboard battery terminals kept corroding and I could not figure out why. One day I happened to turn the key after forgetting I had already turned off the battery. The motor went VROOM! Replaced the switch and all problems are solved.
We did not see any problems with the outdrives when we changed the oil last season. Very clean after more than 100 hours. We have 'X' drives though.
BTW, check both of your switches for power even when turned off. I had one bad from the factory. The starboard battery terminals kept corroding and I could not figure out why. One day I happened to turn the key after forgetting I had already turned off the battery. The motor went VROOM! Replaced the switch and all problems are solved.
We did not see any problems with the outdrives when we changed the oil last season. Very clean after more than 100 hours. We have 'X' drives though.
Last edited by Macklin; 05-09-2003 at 11:52 AM.
#3
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I re-wired mine because I thought they were mis wired. I wired them the way Perko says. Respective battery feeds coming in the 1 and 2 sides with the common going to the engine. This way I can leave them on 1 and 2 then if one goes dead I can start the engine on the other battery. There were other wires for trim and tabs coming into the switches as well. I think I wired them up to the hot side of the associated engine side.
Kentz from what you said mine was hooked up the way you describe. I think 2 and all were the same.
Macklin, I would like to see the write up too:
[email protected]
Kentz from what you said mine was hooked up the way you describe. I think 2 and all were the same.
Macklin, I would like to see the write up too:
[email protected]
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Ray
Ray
#4
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All 3 of us checked our wiring. I (we) made sure that the port battery was #1 and the stbd was #2. I can start either engine off of either battery.
I run my switches the same way Macklin does. That way each motor charges one battery.
If you have been running "all", you may have done damage to either or both battery switches (Macklins bad switch had us stumped for a few minutes) and/or you may have damaged one of your alternators. From your description, it sounds like bad switches or or dead ass battery.
Try this:
Port switch = #1, stbd switch off. See what (motor) has power. Turn on port ignition, should have power. While ignition is on go disconnect port battery. If power dies, that is battery #1.
Then do the same thing with stbd side (port off)
THEN:
Port switch = #2, stbd switch off. See what (motor) has power. Turn on port ignition, should have power. While ignition is on go disconnect stbd battery. If power dies, that is battery #2.
stbd switch = #1, port switch off. See what (motor) has power. Turn on stbd ignition, should have power. While ignition is on go disconnect port battery. If power dies, that is battery #1.
If all this checks out, your wiring is fine. Hopefully your alternators are fine and still able to charge the battery.
I run my switches the same way Macklin does. That way each motor charges one battery.
If you have been running "all", you may have done damage to either or both battery switches (Macklins bad switch had us stumped for a few minutes) and/or you may have damaged one of your alternators. From your description, it sounds like bad switches or or dead ass battery.
Try this:
Port switch = #1, stbd switch off. See what (motor) has power. Turn on port ignition, should have power. While ignition is on go disconnect port battery. If power dies, that is battery #1.
Then do the same thing with stbd side (port off)
THEN:
Port switch = #2, stbd switch off. See what (motor) has power. Turn on port ignition, should have power. While ignition is on go disconnect stbd battery. If power dies, that is battery #2.
stbd switch = #1, port switch off. See what (motor) has power. Turn on stbd ignition, should have power. While ignition is on go disconnect port battery. If power dies, that is battery #1.
If all this checks out, your wiring is fine. Hopefully your alternators are fine and still able to charge the battery.
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BillR
'00 Scarab Sport 302 CC
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BillR
'00 Scarab Sport 302 CC
'02 Cigarette Top Gun TS
'02 PQ 340
'00 PQ 280
'98 Scarab 22
'97 Baja Outlaw 20
'72 Checkmate
'65 Glastron
Last edited by BillR; 05-07-2003 at 07:12 AM.
#5
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Thanks guy's I will check. I'm sure there is no alternator damage. I pulled the boat from storage and they fired right up and indicators were right at 13-14 V @ 1500 rpm. . The primary reason the manual calls for each battery dedicated to a motor is the ECM.
PS. Even though I forgot to ask on my delivery in-water test, I'm sure that's were they were at (I just copied).
Bill I'll try that method this weekend and post results. Macklin, you have e-mail.
PS. Even though I forgot to ask on my delivery in-water test, I'm sure that's were they were at (I just copied).
Bill I'll try that method this weekend and post results. Macklin, you have e-mail.
#8
Registered
hmmm....I have a 95 340 with perko switches. T454 mags. I have been running on ALL since new. If I recall I questioned the dealer and he said ALL. I have 2 switches. Batteries lasted for 6 years. No problem with alternator. My 29 had one switch and I would altnerate between 1 and 2 to eveningly charge.
What am I missing? Or is this a newer boat issue?
Thanks...not an electrical quru (or any guru) so keep it simple for me.
Jeff
What am I missing? Or is this a newer boat issue?
Thanks...not an electrical quru (or any guru) so keep it simple for me.
Jeff
#9
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Your 95 is probably pre-efi? This isssue is for late model ECM's. Update - have all my accessories (have not splashed yet) with starboard #2 port #1. Assuming each drive trim is fed from one battery (except in ALL mode) every thing appears fine.
It REALLY did not have to be this complicated
It REALLY did not have to be this complicated
#10
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Originally posted by Kentz
It REALLY did not have to be this complicated
It REALLY did not have to be this complicated