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Old 10-25-2010, 06:46 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
Maybe a 4 blade prop would help.


Try posting this in the tech area. Also, make sure your coolers and lines arent plugged with old impeller pieces
Are you talking about the little hose that runs to the impeller? is that what i should put the air test too?. since april my boat been out the water trying to figure this out but cant. new seals o ring hose boots could it be the circulating water pump?. i dont think im getting enough water coming up the drive. Only when i put rpms up and take the hose off i could see whater getting to the t stat. I will try what you said with the air test.
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Old 10-26-2010, 12:18 AM
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you need to start at source like you did, then check water flow at power steering cooler inlet then outlet of cooler. then at t-stat housing, then make sure t-stat housing is not plugged, water will still flow to manifolds even with stuck or blocked t-stat housing, way they are designed. next make sure circ. pump is working. pull it off and take backing plate off the pump and make sure fins are still there. to many people put auto pup on them and impeller assy, rot away. i have seen a e few cases where water passage gets plugs at tranfer to intake from heads. does the manifolds or block get warm first. manifolds should warm up faster, take the drain hose caps off the rear and make sure they are not full of silt. YOU CAN GO BUY A CHEAP LASER HEAT GUN AND START LOOKING WHERE ITS START GETTING WARM FIRST WILL GIVE YOU A IDEA IF THERE IA A RESTRICTION SOME WHERE. BY CHANCE YOU DONT HAVE A HEADGASKET LEAKING COMPRESSION PASS THE FIRING RING AND BLOWING COMPRESSION INTO THE WATER PASSAGE SLOWING OR STOPING WATER FLOW THRU MOTOR. TAKE A NIPPLE OUT OF THE INTAKE AND STAR BOAT UP AND SEE IF WATER PUMP IS PUSHING WATER OUT AND BRING RPM UP AND SEE IDF WATER FLOW INCREASES. YOU CAN GIVE ME A BUSS ON PHONE AT 253-377-6399 fRANK.
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Old 10-26-2010, 10:02 AM
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thanks for all that info frank you the best. i got to read this a few more times because i dont know engines like you do still learning. i did the rpm thing and i get lots of water coming from the tstat hose. also did a back flush. took the drive apart and change the o ring. water is getting to the block now but still over heating. I got this engine last december and only drove boat for 3 months then i got this problem. when i run water to the leg with the ears i can see alot of water coming from above the horse shoe looking anode i dont know if that should happen. when i feel the riser they get really hot but i already took then off and clean them out still overheating. One question the oring that goes between the drive where the water flows is there some kind of small gasket that goes there? tell me if im right the water goes up the drive then through the adapter then the impeller push the water to the other side of the adapter then through the body of the drive then into the plastic fitting hose then up the transom hose to the motor is that correct? I also took the complete hose off the circulating pump and lots of water came out the engine so it tells me that water is making it there. but dont know if the pump is circulating it through the motor. Boat was on the water fine and one day all this problems i been out the water since april man losing so much money because of this i really got to get this figured out i will call you later frank i live way in the island of barbados maybe i got to fly someone here to fix it. I got this new engine so i would have no problems but they start early REally stress out here guys
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Old 10-26-2010, 10:15 AM
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Need to have prop labbed...


Hint: this is the "prop" forum.. not repair
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