Anyone know how to get photobucket ro work off of a phone? I have pics to post but my phone won't work with me. I spent all day finishing up my fuse box. Well that was um exciting. ..lol it looks great now I must build so I can get things moving. This is my favorite part of things. Its all up to my imagination and bank account to see what I can do.

looks good. what kinda phone you got? i cant even reply here on my droid the key board don't work on this site for some reason wish they had a app for here. i think you just posted a link instead of the img link post the one with IMG code at beginning and end of link that makes picture show up.

are you gonna use the same seats or get some like that picture of the other boat you posted?

I have a galaxy s3. Yeah I tried to copy the link but It wouldn't work. I'm either going to modify my current seats or build all new. Most likely all new. I have an idea in mind so ill see if I can pull it off. My dash is driving me crazy ... lol all the test fitting and moving and refitting oh well in the end it will be worth it. I'm using a wood base with fiberglass coating. It will save weight and time. I love birch wood. Balsa is lighter but I need something a bit more solid to attach my steering to. So I didn't make as much progress as I wanted to due to my fuse box build.

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so there is my newly rewired fuse box. Soon I should have it mounted to the boat and be able to lay out my wires. I have a total of 9 relays wired and I have assorted fused power lines as well. total of about 8 i believe. What a total PIA but well worth it i think. Next wiring will be my dash and my dual relay for the hatch lift. that one however I will be placing in the engine bay. that way my power and ground lines are shorter, no point running extra lines up front if I don't need to.

fuse box all finished up and ready to be installed. work on my dash continues, slowly but it is coming together finally. I wish I had just used fiberglass as my main component but I wanted the added strength of the wood. I know it will look great once its done and it will be well worth the effort. I hope to make good progress over the next couple days.

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You can see the basic shape that I'm going with. I plan on glassing over every thing once its finalized. Curving wood is a pain but the end result with fiberglass on it is super strong. Just wish I had more than a couple hours each day to work on it. Seems like once you get on a roll its time for work.

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As you can see I'm finally ready to lay some glass. I'm still wondering If I shouldn't have just glassed it all to start with but kind of late now... lol. I hate 2nd shift just when I get on a roll ita time to call it a day. Tomorrow I should have my first layer of glass down. More pics to come... lets face it its just getting good now lol

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Well as you can see I finally go some glass down. The felt is really thick and what look like wrinkles are actually the fabric just laying in a different direction. I need to build it up from the back side still. But I'm just happy to see real progress. Yet again I get rolling and its time to wrap it up and go to work.

looks good. what do you mean glass it all to start with? like have no wood?

No wood panels just a wood frame. But the felt I used is super heavy and it really did need the wood under it to hold its curve. It feels like 40 grit sand paper right now lol. I have some fiberglass mat on the back side of it. Good thing I'm planning on using some foam pad under the vinyl lol.

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Well that shows my gauge layout. Now I just need to find the right size hole saw and I can start having fun.

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Just a bit more work done. Busted out the duraglass to rebuild the curves that sagged. Need even more resin to keep moving forward. I love doing this kind of work. Being able to see your imagination and creativity come to life.

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Well I got bored and polished my throttle lever next is my gear lever. I ground out the tabs in the head as I didn't plan on reusing the plastic caps. Not too shabby if I do say so myself.

keep up the picks that's going to be a cool project.

Thanks. Though I'm wondering what to do about steering. I planed on making an extended shaft but now I'm wondering if I should switch to rack n pinion style??? I really don't know what my best option is. The extended shaft is the cheapest route. Oh well ill build that bridge when I get there lol.

So I got more work done on the dash. Got holes cut for gauges... but I didn't have time to take pics. Laid more glass down and finally got my curve back to the far side of the dash. Polishes out my gear lever but since I used 3000 grit for a couple hours it made my throttle look like crap so now I need to work more on that again. Has anyone else ever built a full custom interior like what I'm doing? Or am I the only one dumb enough to do it?

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finally somebody just as ambitious (or crazy or stupid or whatever connotation we use on a particular day depending on how things go) as me :)

I haven't gotten started on mine too much yet. Rebuilt the engine over the summer, and am painting the bilge now before it goes back in, but interior and dash is next up for me. I really want to get a larger opening into the cabin of my checkmate and redo the gauge layout

Its a labor of love I assure you. Lol I have nevet done anything as ambitious as this build. I did stereo work for years and a few dashes or door panela and stuff like that. This is a whole new level of insanity. In a car you don't have to worry about constant moisture issues. I'm excited to be doing this though. The dash is the hardest part to build as I have to take in to account the steering. In a car its there and you know what you have to work around. In this its all up to me. Once I get the dash set the side panels will be easy. If anyone has ideas or input feel free to share.

So I started in in glassing and building the arches aka double barrel for my tach and speedo... well I decided I didn't like the way my thumb looked so I figured I'd modify it with a hole saw... yeah so once I got the bleeding stopped for the most part I didn't get much done. Btw when not using a drill press use caution with a hand held drill. :lolhit::lolhit::lolhit::lolhit:

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So I finally made some progress today. I know it doesnt look it but I've got severl hours of sanding and filling done there. Its almost ready for vinyl. Started on the side console as well. Won't be long and ill have the one side done.

Looks great cant wait to see the boat finished

yea imma make you make a road trip to maryland to give me a hand with stuff as well lol... I got a 2nd coat on my bilge at least, god it looks so much better painted

Well I'm glad you guys like what I've got done so far. Just wait until I get it wraped.

Not to nitpick, but it's not a very good description of a relay, and by that description it's very limiting what you can do with them. (i.e. direct hatch actuation for instance)

standard 5 pin bosch relay
pins 85 and 86 are a coil. Requires a power and ground to activate the relay, and takes an extremely low current to pick the relay
pin 30 is COMMON (and actually what your load should normally be connected to)
pin 87 is normally open... if there is no power across pins 85/86 then there is no continuity between pin 87 and pin 30. If you apply power to the coil, the contact moves internally (this is the click you hear) and you now have continuity between pin 87 and 30
pin 87a is a normally closed... if there is no power across pins 85/86 then THERE IS continuity between 87a and 30. When power is applied to the coil the contact moves and it loses continuity (because the contact moved over to pin 87)

I broke it down just in case you or somebody else working on a project like this doesn't really understand how powerful relays are. You can drive motors forwards or reverse (or actuators) with a pair of relays.

That's why your load (not power) should be connected to pin 30.

On a 2 way rocker switch you have 3 contacts, the center is the common and then it would get continuity to one pin or the other when you roll it. So in this example, you would put 12v to the common pin of the switch, and then your contacts would go to pin 85 on each relay (top contact to one, bottom to the other). You would then ground pins 86 on each relay.

You would put 12v power on pin 87 of each relay, and then ground pin 87a of the relay. Your 2 motor wires would go to the common, pin 30. This keeps both wires at ground on the linear actuator/motor. When you roll that rocker switch up or down, it will activate that relay it's tied to, which now switches 12v power to that line. That's how you alternate the current through the motor to control devices

Sorry for the slightly off topic, just hopes it can be somewhat helpful. I started out like you, custom car stereo and then moved into really advanced alarm systems (snake pit certified), to designing my own interfaces, and now I do control systems for multi million dollar power generation setups for data centers, hospitals, you name it. If you need ANY help with design, trouble shooting, or for another mind to give you ideas on how to accomplish something, let me know :)

Also one other person stated how 240v 5a is something like 100+a at 12v is incorrect. Amperage is amperage under any circumstances. The voltage rating is it's insulation rating and how much voltage can safely pass through it without shorting out. The current rating is a fixed value on how much current it can take. The only thing that changes in what this switch is capable of is it can supply more wattage at a higher voltage compared to a lower one. When I'm doing testing on these systems at work the amount of cable I need depends on the amps I'm running. I can run a 2.7 megawatt generator at full load with a single cable per phase if it's 13.8kv (13,800 volts) but at 480 volts it takes 9 cables per phase to be able to handle it (though the cables have far less insulation then the medium voltage cables)

Sweet no problem man. I went to school for electrical engineering. I was trying to be as simple as I could but you are right on yhe money. I also simply used the formula for watts on the switch. Like I said though it is by no means meant for high power applications. I will say its been a while since I've gotten to play with much electrical engineering goodies... lol you're far more up to date with that than I am lol. I originally specialized in induatrial motor control. But again that was early 2000's. Sadly other than house hold and automotive not much use for it in my career. But it did make a world of difference when was wrenching. Now its mostly for my tinkering and hobbies.

ahh ok, so you're actually quite past the basics... I have a tendency to get pretty deep on that stuff because I've taken on a few apprentices back in my day when I was doing car audio and customization. Once you know a relay you can practically make anything work anywhere :)

not sure how up on things you've been with audio but do you have any recommendations for a good marine system? I've been contemplating calling up a buddy at memphis audio but I can also get some ridiculous deals on kicker too. I also can't decide if I should put the sub in the cuddy, or do like 2 10's in a custom downfire box under the rear seat. Lose a tiny bit of storage but I'm ok with that. My boat is just as barren on the inside as yours (actually a bit more so at the moment) so I got a blank canvas to do whatever I want with.

Alpine pdx amps are incredible. I've got two in my avalanche and love them. Small foot print big power class d amp. Oddly s/n ratios are really good for class d. Kicker is so over played I just am sick of every one on the lake with kicker. Honestly most marine stuff isn't much different from car stuff. No amp is water proof so...lol if you're. Mounting amps and subs in the cabin go with whatever you want. I'm going to run normal car speakers in custom pods. As long as you are not mounting them where they will constantly get soaked they will hold up. High end stuff is built to marine specs anyway. Just avoid paper conea and cheap foam surrounds. Memphis is good stuff if you can get a deal on it go for it. For low end hz im in love with sundown audio. Yeah I did really well in school I had an incredible teacher, ray ludwig. I don't know if he's even with us anymore but my god that man knew his sh*t. I'd be an engineer but I do less work and make more money doing what I do now...lol I spent years trying to keep it simple for explaining relays... most people are leary of them but very simple and useful devices. Hey if I want to move some serious amps ill just run my 4/0 wires lol... too bad they weigh a ton. When you start building don't be afraid to be different. Every single boat interior looks the same. I'm so sick of boring I mean look at the hot rod world no two will ever be the same so why should we settle for that?

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A very simple but easy to follow diagram of a power window lift motor for anyone wanting ti wire up a lift actuator relay box.

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Off topic I know but this is just one of the boxes I built. Like I said I love this kind of stuff. And yea I need to finish it off with the top trim piece. So no that's not the finished product. ..

Redirected sound will be louder but I've never done a boat before so hard to say what will sound better. Make a test box and put it in different spots to see what sounds best. Best case it will sound like a system in a convertable..worse case like a system on a bike. Great high ends but no bass. I'm thinking either two 8" or 10's mounted in the cockpit behind the front seats.

is it REALLY off topic when it's your own thread? lol

I built a really similar setup for a memphis mojo back in the day in a customers car. Christ that thing could pound, and it stayed clean the whole time too. Going back a solid 7 or 8 years so I'm sure the equipment has gotten even better in that time frame. Near the end of things I got way more into fabrication (like turbo manifolds, intake manifolds and the such)

Going to pollute your thread with a few pics of my own because I don't have the drive to keep one of my own going the whole time, but you can see you're not alone in a huge resto/customizing project)

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That's the before (well close to 2 days of cleaning at this point) I was working with back in the bilge... absolute mess, lots of dirt/debris from a totally rotten rear seat

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That's one side of it cleaned up and painted. Hoping to get the engine back in next week... boat had a 502 magnum in it with spun bearings so I rebuilt it with a 540 stroker kit. Got mine in august of 2012, so been going at it just about a month longer then you lol

What did you use for paint? Looks good man. Yeah my sbc is not going back in I'm going late model LS :) 6.0 L of pure fuel guzzling joy. Good point on off topic..lol

6.0L? man how you think I'm going to feel with 8.9L of displacement draining my pocket dry each time I go out :lolhit:

I use interlux bilgekote... the yma102 I believe it is. It's all just brushed on, it flows beautifully and is easy to work with (and pretty forgiving on me so far, but requires alot of prep work like any paint)

I did at least luck out on my deal with the boat... got it super cheap ($3k in a divorce sale because the wife was in charge) and it's already painted, had a nice trailer and a brand new bravo on it, but the interior was probably in worse shape then yours. Almost none of it is reuseable. My goal by the end is to make it look like at least a 2010 even though it's an 89, but I enjoy the project.

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It's one of those looks good from afar but believe me it's far from good so far

Im getting ready to start on my own project. The dash pod is coming out and converting to a sit down boat with a center console. Monster gauges will go where the stereo is and switches, controls and stereo will go to a center console. Also rewiring the entire boat. first pik is my boat, second pik is similar to what I am going to end up with...

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Nice guys hell yeah. I got mine really cheap but as you could see it was no gem when I got it. Motor only had a few hundred hours on it but a cracked head caused hydrolock. Yeah I could go big block but the ls can pump out 1200 hp lol. I'm only wanting around 400 tho. And its so light compared to the old big blocks. I have a post going on whats needed to swap an ls.

Been following the LS thread with interest. I have a friend in town who owns a wrecking yard, though I would like close to 500hp. There is only a foot difference but size wise I am quite a bit bigger than a scarab 21

The ls can move very well. There is a 24' skatter with twin 5.3's. He hits 105 I believe. Like I've said the ls is the wave of the future. The old 350 has had its day in the sun. Now its time to catch up to the rest of the field and become a bit more modern. Had to believe but tue ls has been around since 99 and we are just now seeing them in boats. Like maybe the last 5 years they are finally catching on.

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Just a small update I didn't get far enough on the dash to warrant any pics yet. But those are hand polished with 3000 grit sand paper for about 6 hours its astonishing what you can do when you have nothing else to do lol

Anyone know who has the livorsi arched base plates? The one place that had them were out of stock. I want a polished one instead of my cheap plastic one.