93 Mirage 232 Trovare build
 

I'm fairly new to this site and have a new project id like to share. Boat is a 1993 Mirage 232 trovare deep v with a stock 330 7.4/B1. Boat has 200 original hours and was stored in a Texas barn, freshwater only. For those of you that don't know, Mirage boats were built up in the Seattle area(I happen to be born and raised) until they were sold several times and ended up in the hands of some dishonest rip off artist sometime in the later 90's. They were always known for their solid build characteristics and good ride. Very much a performance boat besides the fact the inner hull strakes are a bit too short. But I plan on fixing that this winter!

Long story short, I plan on a forged N/A 489 or 496 and almost have all of the parts at present. Pretty much every mechanical piece of this boat will be replaced. I also plan to paint it and update the interior. Overall it's in pretty good shape. My goal is 600hp and 80 MPH. Here's some pics.

When I first bought the boat about 6 months back
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7c9ac871.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psb5fdd997.jpg

The interior is in good shape, but the colors aren't my favorite... The fish finder, mirage sticker on the side and Whaletail XL were the first things to go.
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1ae6f2c5.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8b8c658e.jpg

Engine tear down begins. This was started right after I got the boat. Original plan was to do ported stock heads, roller cam, holley carb, exhaust and intake... Yeah right!

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1d1198f2.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7327fdff.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5fc6cbec.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps440189f9.jpg

Was going to build a wooden gantry for $200, but thankfully I live out in the country. My buddy Donny came by and we were able to pull the engine real quick.

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psf70ede3b.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psffdb908f.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6d2c69fe.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psff22552f.jpg

Future gear head & OSO addict!
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psc53a3da5.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4cb4191c.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psa9e4303a.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...pscb18f856.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps19fbe2f5.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1705e830.jpg

Bought some new Gaffrig offshore controls with trim switch and lighted handles. Also replacing all control cables to match controls. It was time.

Old setup. Who in the heck installs a fish finder in a boat like this!?lol

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...pscb250284.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps531d3ab4.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psdaf552a7.jpg

I was able to sell my old controls on eBay to a guy who was building a boat for his son up in Canada. Really cool when you can help out others in their projects while at the same time financing your own in a small way!

Prepping the opening for the new larger controls..

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psaaf45253.jpg

My dash needs help. I'm going to keep the gray color but thinking about doing dark silver carbon fiber for the dash panel, along with new silver Auto meter marine gauges. Thoughts? Interior will eventually be redone in carbon fiber marine vinyl. Thinking gray and silver. No white, as it's a PITA to keep clean. I don't think it would jive at all with my gray dash.

New cables just arrived from CP Performance. It's like Christmas every time UPS or Fed Ex Pulls up lol.

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psb7b4289f.jpg

All routed and ready to be hooked up. Trying to decide whether to mount the shift bracket on my long EMI risers with supplied bracket or up under the rear lip of the transom.

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psf1e8fd73.jpg

Look at this ticking time bomb......

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3ce12526.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps55bc36fd.jpg

Oil cooler was completely blocked with an old shredded impeller blade. Now I feel even better about doing this! And my wife isn't as pissed now.

The pics are not working..

Should work now as I just paid for membership!

Nice work! Can't wait to see the finished product! I paid the local Marina $60.00 to lift my engine out and put it in the bed of my truck. Thought about a Gantry but if you wheel and deal you can get it done. Having a friend with a tractor is even better!!

Hey thanks! Yeah it really worked out well using the tractor. Is your project in progress or all complete? I hope to have mine done by this spring. Long summers in Arizona!

My project for this winter has just started. I hope to have the rest of everything pulled off the transom tonight so I can start cutting the wet core out tomorrow. I hope to be done by spring also!

Got some time to clean up the bilge today and inspect the stringers and transom. Everything is dry and free of rot! Pretty excited about that.

Before degreasing

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8cb6f578.jpg

After

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8d9672da.jpg

Removing the Y pipe today and might do some sanding prep in the bilge. I wasn't going to paint it, but I want it solid white without the random black splattering nonsense from the factory. Any suggestions on a paint product that holds up well?

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psd008e4a9.jpg

Was feeling kinda tired today, so after degreasing and removing the Y pipe I decided to rebuild my sea water pump. Mine is a Gen V so it also drives the fuel pump. Luckily it's the style with a fill/drain plug. When I first bought the boat, I drained it only to find it contained mostly gas and very little gear oil. Subsequently, the seals and bearings were toast. So I ordered bearings and all necessary seals. All in all, a very simple rebuild. Going to delete the mechanical fuel pump and run a Mallory marine 140.

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2aca0059.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps798531d3.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps70bbfe01.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1efbee93.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps229efe2c.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2819eba8.jpg

I did strait up gel coat in my bilge last time and it stained, but I think I'm just going to do single stage enamel this time (easier). I think it will stain no matter what you use if you don't clean it often. I'm sure this post will start some s##t! LOL!

Have you considered a two stage? Granted it would be a PITA, but I'm getting feedback that the stain resistance is much better.

Looking good! Can't wait to see more.

I haven't seen any difference between single or two stage as far as stains or durability. I was a Auto painter back in the day before I joined the Military. I worked at a high end shop, if it was a solid color we did single stage, if it was metallic we did base clear (because you can't do metallic paints in a single stage). And you could not tell the difference if the solid color was single stage or base clear.

And to add to the auto body paint guru's that are going to respond it was Glasurit paint we used at that shop and you can not tell the difference between their single stage solid colors or their metallic base/clear.

Thanks! It needed more work than I had anticipated, but I plan to keep this boat for a long time.

Yeah good point. Thinking just get a decent white single stage and call it good. The challenge will be painting it in my garage this winter. Even though I live in Arizona it eventually gets cold here too. Was out on the lake with my dad yesterday and it was 80 degrees! Thinking about a kerosene heater with big time BTU's for this winter as I have to paint this bilge well ahead of spring which comes quite early here. Which leads me to my next project...... The outdrive :mad:

So about six months ago I find this boat in Texas. I contact the guy and ask him some questions on the boat. Seems pretty straightforward. I specifically ask him about up and down, side to side movement. He says he will check as I requested. Calls me back and says it's "tight" and very little play. Fast forward one week later when I take delivery of the boat. Everything is as described except the drive........ Go check it and it is sloppy as He**!!! So needless to say I'm pissed. My fault, but still...

Removed old crusty decals and prep for removal
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...pseb28f63f.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psbd0195eb.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3fe77105.jpg

After removing the outdrive I remove the bell housing. The next awesome finding.... Two of the stainless trim indicator screws are broken off inside the housing and one of the pivot pin threads is stripped!! Already in for either a repaired gimble via JR Marine including upgraded parts. I fully appreciate why they say "break out another thousand". Oh well, it's a 20 year old boat, so in a way it's to be expected.

I've been prepping the block and parts for the machine shop, so I haven't really done much else besides remove the steering and trim pump. Thinking about replacing the steering assembly/rack as it's a PITA to access and appears to be leaking slightly. I mean at this point I've got 99 problems, so why not replace it, only money...

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps33cce807.jpg

My gimble ring is also worn and I will be sending it to JR Marine and then using their upgraded parts as well. You sure are getting a lot of work done quickly! I use a propane torpedo heater in the garage during the winter works good.

So I got some time during my sons nap to remove the complete transom plate today. It was pretty difficult and after a while beating the crap out of the studs(used a rubberized sledge), I found out why it would not just pop off....

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps721e1f7b.jpg

Guessing there might have been a leak... Maybe some salt water?

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps675c7e06.jpg

Other stud
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psb908514a.jpg

Tiller arm looks like its toast as well
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psd57f0fc5.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps788807e6.jpg

The mounting hole in the transom is trashed, so I plan to just grind out the damaged area and maybe glass in some new wood, and re bore the hole. The rest of the transom is solid.

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0e65045d.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7cdb0f5f.jpg

Hoping I can salvage the transome plate by a good soak with penetrating oil, some heat and my trusty pair of vice grips.

UPDATE: Soaked the badly corroded stud for about 30 mins, and lightly heated the back of the transom plate to get some expansion. And this happened which I kind of expected....

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7a503a46.jpg

Fortunately, there was just enough material to get it out. To be honest, I figured this would need to be sent out to JR as well. All in all I'm happy, as I had planned to replace all of the studs anyways.

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1d03df8f.jpg

Cool build, love all the pics!

Thanks! I'm pretty excited to have it out on the lake, hopefully this spring if everything goes as planned.

Now that everything has been removed from the transom I was able to take a closer look at the transom opening. Looks like the bottom half is rotten.... Drilled some pilot holes to confirm and it is soft on the bottom half. Going to see if I can get away with a partial replacement. Might just be better to do the entire transom. Oh and to top it off my iphone took a ride in the washing machine..... Maybe I should go buy on lottery ticket, on second thought.... Should have more pics in a few days

For the bilge paint the stuff I'm using is just a white rustoleum with a epoxy hardener. Dries fast and hard and don't stain at all...the hardener you can get at tractor supply

Thanks for the suggestion. I have some time to decide as Im rebuilding the transom right now. TO UPDATE: The stringers are rot free. The only part of the transom that showed slight moisture was right in the area of the badly corroded stud. All of the wood was solid, so that makes me feel much better. Had my father take a look after I scarfed a large section down. He is completely confident a partial rebuild is overkill for what is there. As mentioned he use to race and build unlimited hydroplanes, so he has a vast amount of experience with this. Has also done quite a few I/O boats in his time as well.

I will be sure to update this thread with pictures and progress after my cell phone is replaced or functional. Not having one is a real PITA. Dont realize how much we rely upon technology for daily communication until its gone.

Over the weekend I bought a RotoZip saw and decided to do some exporitory cutting. The resulting damaged area( lower half) is exactly what I anticipated.

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psg95uzrjn.jpg

The bottom half was slightly damp in the middle with very little "Rot"

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psuzmrgkwb.jpg


http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psapsn8kc3.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2zgzmhus.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psii6uqpq9.jpg

Box of goodies for the gimble and transom rebuild. Studs, washers, seals, gaskets, bolts and whatnot. Mercruiser "whatnots" are pretty damn expensive! Lol

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2vm364ry.jpg

Now it's time to decide if I'm going to remove the rest of the transom, or do a partial replacement, overlaying 3/4 plywood. Going with US Composites vinyl ester resin, 1708 biax and some assorted other things. Need to locate some fairly void free 3/4 outdoor plywood. If I opt to replace the entire transom, I plan on relocating the drive cutout to gain some speed while I'm at it. Decisions....decisions!

Ok after contemplating this and speaking with several pros, I've decided to do the complete transom with laminated 3/4 plywood (same as original but better wood). Now I need to calculate materials and order all of my glass supplies. Going to finish scarfing out the entire transom this week if time allows. Pics to follow!

UPDATE: getting ready to remove the rest of the transom. Once this is complete, I will order the vinyl ester and rest of supplies. Block was just finished, machinist is balancing the rotating assembly as we speak. Went with Akerly&Childs moly top, Napier 2nd and low tension oil rings. Great company to deal with when you need custom rings!

Just purchased some KE thunder & lightning cast headers with 18 inch dry tails, so the cam is no longer restricted. Thinking its gonna be loud ;). Should be posting progress pics soon!

I haven't been able to do much of anything on the boat lately, so I woke up at 5:45am this morning and started removing the rest of the transom. All of this work has been done with zero help from anyone(besides you guys giving me much needed advice!). Mom bought me a porter cable ocilating saw for christmas(thing is awesome!) and I am also using a circular ZIPSAW. Worked until 10am today, and almost have the entire transom done. Signing on a new home, is finishing this up later today. Stringers are next.

5:45am
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psg95uzrjn.jpg

10:00am
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3tfcvgqn.jpg
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psjqbva0vf.jpg
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psu8vdph44.jpg
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psurxeedqa.jpg
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psidgs9fzw.jpg
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psymuqrijc.jpg

So I've always liked the look of the late 90's Mirage bilge vents being in the rear of the boat and not where mine are located(rear sides with vents). To top it off they are Teal colored so they must go. Planning on filling the large hole at the same time I'm replacing the transom and rebuilding the engine stringers. Also adding pop up cleats.

Before: http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psycokpyli.jpg

After:http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psee9tidyg.jpg

updates?

Really haven't had much time lately to do a whole lot. Had a week long medical refresher, and been swamped with watching my son. Decided to sell my carburetor and purchase a HOLLEY HP MPFI! Funny how this simple project has morphed into what it is now. Here is the system I'm going with: http://www.holley.com/550-835.asp

This week I plan to remove the engine stringers and start prepping for the new setup. Not going to buy resin until everything is faired in, as vinyl ester should be used within 3 months. Overnight temps are also still a tad low for my liking. We are moving into a new house that will be finished in August, so like it or not, the engine needs to be at least back in the boat before July! Wife says so lol. I will be sure to post plenty of pics soon.

Small update: bought 2 pieces of 3/4 mahogany faced marine grade A plywood from woodworkers source for $200! God I hate this hobby lol. The quality of this wood is unreal. Almost a shame to waste it on a transom. Heading to the fiberglass supply place tomorrow to get some 1708, mat, resin and other trinkets. Still need to remove the rest of the stringers.

Clamped so it won't warp
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psknv9jo0u.jpg

Makes you look at plywood in a whole new light! Not one void, knot or irregularity!
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5spqho35.jpg

Might be overkill, but I"ll take 10 ply over 7 any day
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...pslrd0blon.jpg

Planning to cut the engine stringers back today so that I can create enough space for the new transom wood laminations. Even if the engine stringers were not wet, IMO this needs to be done as I do not want a butt joint connecting my new transom and stringers. The goal today is to make a template and maybe cut up some of this beautiful wood that's almost too pretty for my ugly boat! Lol. On that note, I'm thinking black, silver and white for paint eventually.

I was able to find some 3M Corebonding material part number 70006474343 that I'm going to use to bond in my new transom and stringers. Will probably use it to create my "filets" as well. A big thank you to "Glassdave" for recommending this stuff and taking the time to explain pros' & cons. People like Dave make this site one of the best boating forums on the web. Also, thanks for following and any/all advice.

My plan today was to make a template for the transom, however it needed more prep work, and I still needed to cut the rear engine stringers back in order to tie new ones into the transom, at least in the absolute rear behind the motor mounts. I worked most of the day cutting and grinding:faint2:Here are some pics:

Oh look what I finally picked up on Friday! 496 Gen V fresh from machining:
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2ebkema9.jpg
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...pskwevnvls.jpg
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psmxyciwyo.jpg

On to the itchy stuff:

Stringers are three laminate sheets of 3/4 plywood, but not bonded to the hull. They were wet, but no real "rot". As you can see, the layup on mirage stringers is stout:
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps12jrtcax.jpg

Again, wet, not rotten. Still, needs replacing:
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...pso38gtexe.jpg

Rear engine stringer layout BEFORE:
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7cfvxbkv.jpg

AFTER, thinking I was just going to scarf in a new piece! Yeah right!
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6rm7gjxn.jpg
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...pskonvl34m.jpg
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...pskvmhy0pu.jpg

Going to be fun chipping this frickin poly/chop strand down to good glass! You can see the areas where there were voids. Actually less that half needs to be chipped away to get to the good stuff:
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psku2xqejj.jpg
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...pslmhqw7rk.jpg

Cut an inspection hole to check the foam and inner structure. I'm thinking about cutting this top part back about 12 inches(it's 3/4 plywood and not even wet) to replace all of the transom in an effort to avoid butt joints, as they aren't preferred for ultimate strength:
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...pspmvscoeg.jpg

Rear stringer located behind motor mount and running back toward the transom:
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5z1xgpc9.jpg
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...pslkrvirba.jpg
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psdf8nrgxy.jpg

I'm really dreading completely removing this part of the stringers. It seems almost impossible to get the mounts exactly back where they need to be. I realize the mounts have adjustment, but this seems like its going to take some time to have it turn out right.
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psshzgoynh.jpg
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psjkkx3tom.jpg
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psn14iidbv.jpg

Reinforcements! Gotta love harbor freight. I like my porter cable oscillating tool, but my RotoZip saw blades, on the other hand last about ten cuts and they are done, at $24 a piece. No aftermarket blades available either. I do not recommend this type of saw, as it's not cost effective.

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7gqj4e0c.jpg

Job would be much more difficult without these!
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...pshqnlxn3u.jpg

This morning had a couple hours to get some more work done:

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...pssgxvxugc.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psvprtqqtd.jpg

Little water in the bottom, but all surrounding wood is 100% sealed!
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1t8puwhq.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psc9q9uhjx.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psvprtqqtd.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...pslgwdluw1.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psi8jkcjk0.jpg

I'm assuming you are going to remove motor supports to enable wood/stringer replacement ?