glastron carlson signature 19 project
 

Hello everyone, I recently became the owner of css19 the 1990 which required complete restoration.engine is a Mercruiser 5.7 with alpha one, who does not turn, so that everything goes from ship
I read that there's a lot of knowledge, and needs your help to draw from this hull everything I can
The first questions
the speed you can expect from this type of hull (i think is a deep vee)?
how much power do I need for the same?
ship is difficult 2800lbs with merc 5.0, thinking that I'm going to mounting option ls engine, but I'm not sure whether the LS1 short block or long
I know for sure that I'm going to thruhull exhaust, and an close cooling system, and drive for'm not sure yet, keep alpha one and reinforce it, or go to bravo 1
My initial capital was $ 7,000 for the engine and drive, but there will always be a few dollars more for project
one of the ideas that I go through my head was to retain the block and go to 383 stroke with good aluminum heads, and good rotation parts, and carb, maybe later efi upgrade
so much the idea, but I do not know where to begin with work, I want a plan by which I worked
If you have some good advice and tips I'd be grateful
As far as the ls 1, if I bought I would have to buy a used engine from e-bay,and I would go again to open and inspect
huh, what do you think..?

http://www.rlcperformance.com/images...pledigits.html
What do you think about this, there are good things

The ls engine option won't be cheap. I custom built a 6.0 and I'm $7700. Into it. That's just the motor...

Mid to high 60mph gps you can use 5.7L and Alpha. 350hp-375hp

Over 70 you can use 383cid and Alpha. Just use restraint when planing - ie: don't hammer it out of the whole. 400-450hp.

A small lightweight boat and small block can keep the Alpha drive.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/383-STROKER-...69634b&vxp=mtr
how good is this engine maker?

Well, time to start buy parts for my small block
Is it possible to make 450-500hp from small block?
I need a recommendation from you for the quality parts, all I need for safe marine engine 450-500hp
head, camshafts, valves, valve lifters, crank, rods, pistons, ARP bolts, rings, bearings ...
maybe a finished kit, something like this on ebay http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...r+kit&_sacat=0
I need your help because I do not have money to burn, to experiment, so I want everything from the first that works

I do not need a muffler, and I go to a closed cooling system, which I think is important, because the engine will not come into contact with the sea, so that maybe parts do not have to be the same as the engine cooled external water
Can you recommend a good quality mechanic or a company which has offered a ready-383 marine engines, a reliable

MER on this site, and others, are very capable of doing this for you.


A 450hp 383 is easy. A 500HP 383 is some more $$$. Your pocket will decide between the two.

Too bad, a 480HP (legit) 6 hr 383 just went up for sale and sold a few weeks back on this site.

Remember, either way you have to spend some $$$ on good exhaust.

As far as exhaust, I work as a pipe fitter, so I'll do this alone in my workshop, it will be an interesting experience, but I found some blueprints that looks oem merc auspuh. I have some experience of the German chemical industry, where I worked some mantel pipe installations

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYiCj1qLqHo
I love the sound of the engine, but I'll look to do perform on the side of the ship, because I want to create a swim platform

look up a guy friscojarretts on youtube he restored one of these

I have already reviewed all of its projects

Had one of these back In the day .headers and thru hull on this boat for more than 360 hp or so is going to suprise you . Not a rough water boat like mainstream 19s either .with 5 people if your propped for 70 plus and tourqe moved out of the 2800 rpm range or so ,it might really struggle to plane .wakebaord pulls exceptional with the hook on the arch . Led toggles still avail if you look long and hard .always wondered what it would do with a Volvo dp and aluminum heads . Thru prop exhaust .you will too after a little more research .very cool boat .

I started some work on the engine, since it would not rotate, I was worried that the block and I was right.circul water pump is also blocked, power steering pump is ok, altenator blocked. I removed the spark plugs, and then tried to rotate the crankshaft pulley, which is barely moved.I put a little diesel fuel thru the hole from the spark plug and I did it little by little rotated slightly longer crankshaft. I hope that I can make use of block. exploring the what and how, I read that it is very important compression ratio and it depends on the fuel used .here we have the opportunity to use the 95,98 and 100 octane fuel
I aimed at the 10: 1 comp.ratio .target hp between 400 and 500 ps

I know that before buying parts, machinist must examine and measure the block but I need to of some suggestions about parts for the engine.I was thinking, for the lower part of the rotation of the motor used scat crank, rod, something like this
Series 9000 Cast Cranks, Pro Stock I-Beam Connecting Rods with 3/8"Cap Screws, HYPER Pistons, Rod Bearings, Main Bearings & Rings,this come as a kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-CHEVY-38...2b5995&vxp=mtr
and the upper portion
Xtreme Marine ™ XM270HR: Full Cam Kit
and some aluminum heads like dart SHP Small Block Chevy 200 Cylinder Head

Sounds like the motor is hurt check risers - manifolds closely ,those boats ,water gets into the engine during foul weather through engine sundeck pad gaps if left outside un covered .with the power your wanting to make ,a duoprop upgrade sure sounds good .sell your alpha while its still has a pulse

Hello guys
I finally started to do something on my boat
heads are down, the engine is in good condition, as new, honing is still seen
I found that someone rebuild engine
throughout that rust, when I removed the valve cover, shone the roller rockers
[IMG]http://s28.postimg.org/ge7v0x4rt/sbc_010.jpg http://s28.postimg.org/d3ewnapgp/sbc_011.jpg[/IMG]

Then I start to researche what I have in the engine
I found a number of engine and number of heads
head casting nuber 3970126
block casting numer 330817
heads are Treated to 2.2 / 1.60 valves (OEM is 327/350 engine,67-79year,1.72 / 1.50valvs), with roller rockers and Sealed Power RP3212R pushrods
I do not know the ratio of roller rockers and who made them
engine block was also surprise,when i found that this is a 400cid,it is look like in the good shape,hones are still visible,and no edge on the peak of the cylinder
[IMG]http://s11.postimg.org/pazm8d8zz/sbc_012.jpg http://s11.postimg.org/eydbmafgv/sbc_013.jpg[/IMG]

but,always is but,whwn i search wiki about a engine i found this
The 400 differed from other small blocks in that the cylinders were siamesed and therefore required 'steam' holes in the block, head gaskets, and heads to help alleviate 'hot-spots' in the cooling system at the point above the siamesed cylinders. Overheating and damage are likely if head gaskets or heads without 'steam' holes are used on a 400 block.
well, my head gasket have not steam holes so i am afraid of state of the block
sorry for my bad english
[IMG]http://s14.postimg.org/7fxyz3x41/franko_mobitel_071.jpg image sharing sites[/IMG]some more pictures

Steam holes not an issue in a boat. Not much of an issue in a car where temps are watched. Only bad in something stuck in traffic on hot day with marginal cooling systems (typical back then) and running hot.

I'd be more afraid of freeze damage or etc with that motor. Looks very neglected ! Lots of corrosion on motor mounts and the obvious hole in the timing chain cover.

If the block is okay, make sure the engine shop does a magnuflux and sonic check, all threaded holes (especially head bolt holes) and etc.

of course,engine shop must check everything
I must pull out engine block
how much damage can make salt water,sea,in block cast ?
and if everything is ok,is this good combination,this heads and 400 block?
I was thinking about port and polish heads,and change block on hyd roller cam and lifters? is it possible whit this block to make hyd.roller?
or better, can I come close 400 hp with this combo,this old,poor flowing heads and 400 ci?

I just Googled the CSS 19, what a cool looking little boat. Please post some photos of yours.

What can I expect from these head?
I need 400 healthy horses
http://s17.postimg.org/5otmk8bvv/franko_mobitel_069.jpg

http://s17.postimg.org/kw50quecr/franko_mobitel_071.jpg
is this camshaft good for this combo?
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...ory_Code=HFTXM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgPZ...gJwT1AozDXVWXR

I can do almost everything , what this guy made, I already have a bigger valves , a little valve shrouding,
there are plenty of meat,porting and other things
well, if I can stay with little budget,why not

still working,I started to disassemble the head and I started porting .I m not sure if I'm going to low budget build or to spend some more money
still read a lot,and learning
at the top of the piston write 0.20,all cylinder is good ,no scratch,bottom end turns without problem,and that is my problem,why touch if i do not need
otherwise the plan is this
top end
afr 190 cc heads
compcams marine xm 276 if I go roller,if I stay no roller xm 278 (not sure if i need new lifters,my is like new,no wear)
roller rockers 1.5 I have
hardened pushrods i have
carburetor I m not sure maybe 750cfm,i have 4bar rochester,but i am not sure what to expect from him
edelbrock rpm performer intake
bottom end
I like to go with some flat top piston +7cc
5.7 or 6 rods,maybe forged
crank oem
or buy some bottom end kit
alpha one is down ,tomorrow start disassemble,must check everything
I measured the stroke of the intake valve, left an imprint on it,and it is 12 mm,0.472 inch of lift,exh 11.5mm .452",so probably both is .452",summit says crane cam .452-452
steam holes on block is closed with something,not rust

I need an answer
cam specification says 0.500 max lift
Is this means that the valve to be raised from the valve seat for 0.500?

still working
the engine is disassembled into parts
crankshaft is oem gm, ok condition, need light polishing, main bearings are .020 "down, and rod bearings is .009" down.clevite p 77 bearings are not in the best condition, especially main, lower, all need replacement
I'm still in the process of measuring all
* Former engine builder strengthen the block with ARP bolts and nuts
stock rods are also strengthened with ARP bolts and nuts
some cheap aluminum piston .020 "reverse dome + 30cc, I measured
cam is C.C 280 AH10, need light polishing, so I do not need a new
One cylinder has a crater in the field of DDC, and here I am in doubt what to do.
all 8 cylinder bore over .030, and buy new flat top piston and 6 "rods, or put a sleeve into the damaged cylinder, keep this piston and rod
My machinist said sleeve is thick .070 ", and I was very afraid of what will happen when charging the same
all cylinders are in very good condition with no significant wear
yet all measure up
go some pictures of damaged cylinder

[IMG]https://s15.postimg.org/4i22cslgn/6_...n_toma_054.jpg[/IMG]
https://s11.postimg.org/4icpvpukv/241.jpg
https://s18.postimg.org/ae0wynnmd/242.jpg
https://s18.postimg.org/mm1v60ydh/6_...n_toma_055.jpg
https://s14.postimg.org/6ckvub4x9/6_...n_toma_062.jpg

https://s22.postimg.org/xchhzwvgd/6_...n_toma_061.jpg
https://s12.postimg.org/l8ni8s1zt/6_...n_toma_064.jpg

I would try to replicate the merc 377 build, that boat wont be happy with a cammy engine. Especially if you put 5 people in it . And if you still have the fiberglass "arch" that happens to have a tow hook built in up there .

yes,i have arch,do you think that this cam is not good for skiing and towing tube?
Can I get an explanation for Cammy Engine, and what would be better?

[IMG]https://s15.postimg.org/v17muddnb/sbc_014.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]https://s3.postimg.org/vlphhmf3z/sbc_010.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]https://s18.postimg.org/6b3oq3r51/029.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]https://s11.postimg.org/drdpo35gf/028.jpg[/IMG]

well, I read a lot lately and came to the conclusion that it would better suit XM 270 H camshaft, but the majority are 350 engines, what I have 500 cui more
camquest calculator says that the ideal grind 280, 270 is in the third place
I realize that 270 begins to charge earlier, but I already have a 280 grind ...
any input from you experienced in boating .. some explanation in behavior 3000lbs heavy rig with one or another cam

That motor looks a little on the rough side, if it was me i would try to find a manual trans vortec 5.7 truck motor ,with the flywheel , have your guy toss a $250 ht383 cam in it a cheap aftermarket vortec aluminum intake , some new oem or better valves . then put some money aside for props, a dedicated prop tool and some extra washers and prop nuts .
And dont forget to relocate the battery or batteries up front. And take all the dings out of the bottom of the hull if there is any . That motor may of seen some salt.
The more weight you can get out of the back of that particular hull the better

Wait a minute here , are you thinking about putting a old school small block 400 in that thing?

well, this engine was already and worked in this boat, with this camshaft,head combo
I managed to get to the guy who was driving and do servicing on this boat, says that he went as f1
yea, this is a old 400,overbored .020 and now I must drill more .020 to 4.165 ,put some new flattops,shave a head to raise compresion,shave a block to get zero deck

not too many answers and I'm full of questions
Can I replace Alpha with Bravo 1 without additional complications?
x dimension is it the same?

Stick with the alpha , your never going to pull bafefoot skiiers with that boat anyway.
If it really starts turning into a no holds barred all out boat, go with a volvo penta duoprop.

And most people on this earth have never been within 500 feet of a sbc 400 manual trans flywheel. And now you have aftermarket pistons. Better make sure that motor is going to have the correct balance before ya put it back in .

come on, you're just talking and not talking about why this is so
all suggest that alpha is too weak for more than 300PS
Why I will not be able to pull skiers?
What is problematic with 400 flywell?
please a little more explanation, facts
This engine has an external balancer
I found this application in several projects
I found here in Croatia bravo 1 complete with transom, pumps, cylinders, stainless steel prop for $ 3,000 minus my alpha $ 1,000 = $ 2,000
man says low hours, 25 w / h
http://www.njuskalo.hr/unutarnji-bro...oglas-20301182
volvo duoprop,or bravo 3 is to expensive here I heard that love brake
Need help, advice, encouragement
the easiest way to buy a new Mercruiser and drive, and plug and play
I like a bit of chemistry, as we say here.
this is my hobby, and I love to revive old ships,old problematic engine