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Your last picture is all telling.
Expect the new 2x's to shrink up and loose strength/de-bond. And those screws (2) tieing a stringer to a cross frame member make me cringe. I built a boat when I was seven that looked like that. When I was eighteen I rebuilt a jet boat the right way with marine ply, epoxy, and glass. Before it goes any further I would really do the job right. Listen to turbo rr on what to use. Just do a little research on here, you will find the right way to repair. Don't be afraid to ask for help. It's way easier to do it the right way now, rather than finishing up and taking a wave and everything pops lose, or worse. Don't underestimate the amount of flex these boats take in rough water. Good luck. |
Their method may work fine on houseboats but I don't see this holding up on an offshore boat.
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Start over now. Minimum grinding before it gets to far
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Originally Posted by jeff32
(Post 4533022)
Thats is a really nice looking transom assembly cut out for sure!!! I would not even paint it!!
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I hope you really like this boat, because now that the offshore community is seeing how its being put together, you will never sell it.....
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Thanks for the input, I'm no expert in this stuff. Boat will be repaired professionally, I don't half ass anything.
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Originally Posted by Numbers
(Post 4533474)
Thanks for the input, I'm no expert in this stuff. Boat will be repaired professionally, I don't half ass anything.
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It's a shame you have to cover that up.
Originally Posted by Team Archer
(Post 4532932)
Just my two cents but I would never use 2X material for stringers. We always laminate two layers of 3/4 marine grade plywood for our engine rails. and transoms[ATTACH=CONFIG]565130[/ATTACH]
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Gorilla glue should only be used on that boat that has the screen door for a bottom. Another miracle Cure.
I can almost look past the 2bys for stringers since when I built 68 foot custom sport fishers we laminated seven. 2 by 8s clear fir together to hold the 15000 pounds of 3600 horse Cats and it was fine. But the swabbing with the gorilla glue worries me. One you don't know what chemical in the glue is going to piss off the resin they use over it 2 unless they grind all the extra Gorilla glue mess they made around the stringers off they have lost a ton of critical bonding area. The thing that always concerns me when I see people cutting every bit of structure out of a boat to do a stringer replacement job is this. How is this big wet noodle being supported now ? Are you assuming your bunks on your trailer are properly positioned for height ? And even if they are , leaving the boat sitting on the bunks with no stringers over a length of time will have the hull settling and most likely having a big Hook permanently glassed into the hull after the stringers are glassed in. The hull needs to be fully supported at the Chines and the bow and the transom. Let the hull bottom hang or be supported loosely .And crawl under there after you ground out all your old stringers and lay a straightedge on it and make sure the bottom is straight . I would pull that boat out of that shop and find someone who is reputable in the performance boat fiberglass repair business. |
agreed an adhesive will allow movement,, should at least use a Marine grade filler
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