Did you run the mirage plus with the full barrel? Is it full labbed or just barrel removed?

The 25 m plus is from the pair that was on my 30 scarab, they where modified from the rake angle up to the cup along the diameter, i sent it to a prop shop to return it to stock, they said they did. To me its still in there and i reconditioned props for 4 years,

used to use the old gauges too, wish i had a diameter table and gauge now.

it chinewalked very bad so i cut the ring down 3 times 1/8" at a time and it improved greatly.

it likes to run parrallel to maybe 2-3 degrees trimmed up.

the chinewalk is 95% percent non existent, total confidence to let it run but it goes into the soft limiter.


the 27 m plus really looks box stock ( no where near as progressive on the rake angle) and it has the whole ring on it.

it likes alot of trim 5-6 on the indicator (2 is parrallel)

the chine walk is 95 % non existent, total confidence to let it run but it only turns 4900


other difference between the 2 props is the 25 has vent holes that are plugged, the 27 does not have them at all.


without the spacer the 25 and 27 jump up on plain and i take it easy getting up.

both props cavitate around the 1500 mark for 1/2 second, then once the bow falls and until the boat settles into 2700-2800 rpm any input to the wheel or trim and they will cavitate.

the cavitation is a 50/50 thing it will either bark at you or it will howl and vibrate and you have to start over.


with the spacer cavitation is gone at the 1500 mark, and virtually nil with input once up on plane.

the 25 now stays inside the limiter and wants alot of trim 5-6 on the indicator, but speed is down slip is up and bad chinewalk is back in my life so i didn't see a reason to try the 27.

without the spacer the 25 gets 73 @ 10% slip, the 27 gets 74 @ 11% slip.

plan to remove spacer, cut ring on 27 and cross fingers.

i'll get a couple pics with the straight edge to show the rake early tomorrow before the hurricane panels go up.

i dunno, the more i look at and feel the blades i dont think the 25 has any more, it probly is stock or damn close.
the finish could easily be throwing the look and touch off.
thats right my house is pink

"Ain't that America, home of the free........"

Hell yeah america, my neighbors laughed when i said pink, they slapped there foreheads when they found out it wasnt a joke. the stain needs to be redone tho, and the drive could use a power wash.
1959 w/ original jalhousie windows, When built, the house was originally the color of the door.

2 days, 4 36 grit grinding pads, alot of filing, blocking and grinding, over and over.

dont ask how i measured how much metal came off, alot of metal came.

Took the radio out to use in the ski boat, swapped in a gps speedo (for75 bucks i'm sure it's accurate)
I'll go with whichever one tells me the fastest.
Snuck the antenna and on/off button thru fuse sockets, all fuses under dash.
Even with careful drilling, filing and fitting i still managex to screw both sockets up a little.

I'm listing hart throb for sale. It needs a trim ram for the starboard k plane.


i have a complete driveline, bellhousing to hangar with new bearings installed by a mercury dealer at mercury rates. all installation hardware in mercury bags, unopened. I didn't have ujoints installed because the shaft would have to be sized for what i wanted first.


For those who don't know or don't remember during the rebuild, the engine is moved 1 foot forward using an imco stand off box driveshaft, hence the multiple mounting/set up options, also this boat was laid up in the mold as a raceboat with race bulkheads and no cabin, raced 1 season back in 95 or 96.

the engine can go forward another foot and use the bravo driveline. Or a big giant blower can go on, (the engine room is that big)

the drive can go on a box and the driveline can be used.

the drive can go on a box and the engine can be moved back

the plumbing, wiring and steering hoses are rigged to accomodate any repositioning of the engine a foot in either direction, and there is a second battery platform all glassed in.


all the plumbing steering and wiring harness was new when restored and i put about 100 hours on it since the rebuild.


there are 2 complete mounting options:

1. mercury single engine front offshore plate brand new unopened, and 1 mercury single engine rear offshore plate installed on boat

(boat has a 496 so it uses the gil 496 offshore mount up front. The pcm is stock, the engine is stock except for the plus 6 inch inch cmi header kit with oil filter mount and some plumbing changes with an hoses to clean it up in appearance).

2. A complete mercury driveline mount front and rear new unopened with mercury hardware unopened, the rear mounts bolt to either a bravo driveline or a borg warner trans and set on pedestals however, there are 2 brand new unopened gil 496 mounts that can be used with the mercury driveline mounts which tie the mounts together like plates from stringer to stringer.


everything else including mercury stuff for the drive, leftover parts not used in the rebuild and all fluids go with it.


there are 2 driveline/transmission bellhousings, 1 is top mount starter depth with rear offshore plate, the other is top mount starter depth without rear offshore plate.

one is installed on the boat, the other is boxed up with the driveline.

the driveline is in a compartmentalized crate packed in foam so the paint doesn't get scratched stored away at my house.


the tires, bearings brakes and springs on the trailer have 50 - 60 miles, the trailer is set up so i can single hand it on and off and the boat lands within a half of an inch front/back everytime easy peasy.


35 takes it all, boat, parts and trailer. 30 takes the boat and trailer. push button and go. I'll seatrial and talk to anyone who's serious.

Couple months ago i put a new horn on it too

anyone recognize it

Why are you selling your project? Sad ending...