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Beautiful welds!
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Man, I just want to hear this Beast Roar. Dry Pipes Anyone??
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Trim cylinder tubes are ready, my friend is better welder than me so he stick weld these together. If trim cylinder to drive joint break, everything goes broken. Bronze pushings is now very tight fit to eliminate any slack. Stainless thick washers are used on 16mm bolts.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...59c09eca70.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...50a7e1fe0e.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...cef1000bf3.jpg I digged out ZF transmission from snow. It have been there a while. Next on list is full disassebly, clean, sandblast and modification to take 3000hp in. In Finland was long period over -20C (-4F) cold, but now temp has rised to 0C (30F) so maybe I can keep garage doors open and make test run for Transmash. It will be nice to hear some twin turbo sound! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...78552534a7.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e15bce4503.jpg |
In test run engine run great with turbos and tail pipes, exhaust gas pressure control work also pretty good.There is few problems, vacuum pump transfer so much air at start that it takes oil with stream and it blows out of breather. I have to make some breather tank/separator. It breathe now to dry sump tank but its not good. Breather should go straight to own tank.
Transmission is now disaembled and washed. I take housing to sandblast and start thinking to modify hydraulics so turbine is not used anymore. I will not use original oil pump either. Lubrication pressure is hardest thing to solve because it was made originally from turbine pressure. Now there is no turbine so I can't use original valves and systems. Turbine oil flow have to eliminate from transmission hydraulics and make external main oil pressure supply from engine hydraulics. Engine hydraulics use same oil than transmission, they are connected together to make all systems more simple. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...fe7ced14da.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...18e3ac7c76.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...3016b64356.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...3598139bcf.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...cebdcbc573.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b89ab51c42.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...00d799f4b1.jpg Friction plates are huge as you see, I will do some modifications so transmission pressure can rise up from 16 bar to 30bar. It helps alot to take more torque in. Internal hydraulic retarder need to eliminate also, it will be 10kg lighter if I can remove all retarder parts. Stay tuned. |
Originally Posted by ksalmine
(Post 4889521)
In test run engine run great with turbos and tail pipes, exhaust gas pressure control work also pretty good.There is few problems, vacuum pump transfer so much air at start that it takes oil with stream and it blows out of breather. I have to make some breather tank/separator. It breathe now to dry sump tank but its not good. Breather should go straight to own tank.
Transmission is now disaembled and washed. I take housing to sandblast and start thinking to modify hydraulics so turbine is not used anymore. I will not use original oil pump either. Lubrication pressure is hardest thing to solve because it was made originally from turbine pressure. Now there is no turbine so I can't use original valves and systems. Turbine oil flow have to eliminate from transmission hydraulics and make external main oil pressure supply from engine hydraulics. Engine hydraulics use same oil than transmission, they are connected together to make all systems more simple. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...fe7ced14da.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...18e3ac7c76.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...3016b64356.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...3598139bcf.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...cebdcbc573.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b89ab51c42.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...00d799f4b1.jpg Friction plates are huge as you see, I will do some modifications so transmission pressure can rise up from 16 bar to 30bar. It helps alot to take more torque in. Internal hydraulic retarder need to eliminate also, it will be 10kg lighter if I can remove all retarder parts. Stay tuned. I've been toying toying with setting up an external Merctrans 2 fluid pump and cooler. Not that you need extra stuff mounted and plumbed to the engine! |
Tartilla, do you think put another pump doing more flow with transmission original pump? It will not rise pressure, it just add more flow. I have not dissambly velvet drive but I think there are also somekind pressure control valve that can be adjusted?
I remove transmission original pump and take pressure from engine hydraulic pump. It make 200bar for hydraulic driven raw water pump and hydraulic auxiary belt drive. Adjustable pressure control valve stabilize transmission pressure to 30bar and transmission original valves must lock up so they don’t work anymore. |
Such a cool build, thank you for sharing. I love seeing the pictures and reading about your custom modifications.
I SOOO wish you were my neighbor, with all those cool toys/machines to build things - and the knowledge to use them. |
I don't think you will need more flow for the transmission as you are eliminating the torque converter. The converter uses the bulk of the fluid.
Yes the increase in pressure will increase the torque capacity but make sure to look for structural issues such as pushing a retaining ring out of a groove in the housing. I'm sure there is a regulator someplace in the transmission. It might not be a bad idea to use the original transmission pump and cut the width down to kill some of the flow. A velvet drive regulator opens against a spring and bypasses additional fluid through the oil cooler. |
Originally Posted by Mbam
(Post 4889896)
I don't think you will need more flow for the transmission as you are eliminating the torque converter. The converter uses the bulk of the fluid.
Yes the increase in pressure will increase the torque capacity but make sure to look for structural issues such as pushing a retaining ring out of a groove in the housing. I'm sure there is a regulator someplace in the transmission. It might not be a bad idea to use the original transmission pump and cut the width down to kill some of the flow. A velvet drive regulator opens against a spring and bypasses additional fluid through the oil cooler. I modify transmission and put steel groove oil suply insert for rotating assembly, original grooves are aluminium. This possible problem is real like you said, thank you for tips. New input shaft has to be made also, I find pretty tough material for it! More details in next post. |
I have study metallurgy few weeks and learned that we have very best steels available in scandinavia. We have Outokumpu, Uddeholm and SSAB all manufacture very good stuff. Austrian Böhler make maybe best steel in world, W720 but it cost too much for me and have to heat treated. I ordered transmission input shaft blank, its SSAB Toolox 44 tool steel, 1500N/mm2 (218kpsi) and no need for heat treatment! It delivered from hard condition but it can be milled, drilled etc.. its only 45HRC hard but tough as John Rambo. Toolox 44 is perfect steel for shaft that is tortured by 10.000Nm torque. 100mm diameter 400mm long bar cost 325€ so its not so expensive.
Engine - transmission coupling sleeve will be made 34crnimo6 that is good steel also, over 1000N/mm2. Spline sleeve are over double diameter compared to transmission input shaft so it won't see so much force, milder steel can be used to save money. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9b19d9a0fe.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7c8ee17955.jpg Trim cylinder upper ball joints is ready, they are made 304 stainless and aluminium bronze, ball is 60mm diameter. They have to weld to 8mm stainless plates that bolted to extension boxes. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...06a214872a.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...5131409417.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c1a098fddc.jpg Converter mounting tower is shortened and made to fit engine coupler sleeve. Needle bearing race had to cut and turn right length so shaft seal could be put there to keep lubricate pressure inside input shaft. Hard to explain but it is what it is. Bearing race is hard as hell so special lathe tool is must, boron nitrite is only way to go. Shavings are red hot! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b1c8ac9c0b.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...01b30aeba9.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...86dac22f1d.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a100e2ff62.jpg Transmission and splitbox empty housings test fit. All fit as planned, its very good feeling when years of thinking and many many CAD drawings come alive and all fit together. There are no other person than me engineer this boat, lot work to one person. Package overall length without tailpipes are 2.3m (7.5ft), bottom length is little less so it barely fit in 47 engine compartment. |
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