All 48 valve seats are out now, most off them was very tight fit but few was so loose that little punch with stem and hammer make them come out. Big risk to drop seat, they will be replaced by Volvo truck engine seats.

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Welding was best way to reduce press fit and get them loose.

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Seats are wierd, they have taper outside and head are swollen over seat top bevel.



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New Nissan pistons have lower compression height and cyliner head have to go down 4mm to get squish clearance right. I think 2mm is good, smaller is better to get maximum turbulense in chamber but engine is so big that risk piston to head contact are there.
Heads can be milled 4mm lower but better way is re engineer head gasket. I won't use head gasket at all. Original is 3mm aluminium sheet that is pressed between liner and head.
I will use copper fire rings that goes milled groove in heads, there are no possibility to blow ring out. If clamping force is not enough, I do hoops in head and receiver groove on sleeve later, too much work now. That way it keep cylinder pressure in cylinder like pro mod and top fuel engines does .
I have to find fiber optic laser cutting company who can cut copper rings from 2.5mm copper sheet, normal lasers can not use cutting copper.

0.5mm gap is left between head and cylinder block so all clamping force is on fire ring and engine is now like "dry deck" because if fire ring leak, pressure can erupt freely from the gap.
Water passages are round holes, I milled place for O rings to cylinder blocks. That take some time too, 48 water passages....
O-ring groove bottoms are angled so O-rings can not growl inside passage when head is tightened. Special tool are needed surprice surprice.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e64a223d78.jpg
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Selfmade special milling cutter, made from old 20mm 4 flute end mill. bottom face are grind to angle in lathe by direct grinder and stone. After that special mill is sharpened by hand with hand grinder. Works well!

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a56217de69.jpg

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Extension boxes and drives are on test fit. Everything goes together just bolt on this far. All parts are 100% self design and CAD draw by me, machining work is made in local machine shops, in 30km circle and I did some work myself. No sense to machine with small manual lathe, these things have to done CNC. Extension boxes are made from steel, drives and cylinders are 304 stainless and NiAp410 aluminium bronze.

What you think guys? I think it looks pretty sexy for homemade.

Time show will these drives handle 1MW a piece:cool-smiley-011: I think they should

Looks great and entire new perspective to home made

refresh our memories why didnt you just purchase asd?

Three reasons
-I did’t have enough money for ASDs and they are hard to find here
-My drives can handle more power because no u-joint in drive, lighter also.
-socket housing is much smaller so drives can be assembled lower
-last reason, I want build own drives because I can

:ernaehrung004:

did you save any money?

Yes I did. Drives cost me like 30% of new Arnesons and way less than SSM6 or 8. These drives are total different than Arnesons and drive line can not be compared to any commercial product. I want test will my design work or not.

Extension boxes are now permanently assembled. I put stainless studs for drives and trim cylinders, they are just bolts screwed inside to out. Thread lock seal them to boxes and bolt heads prevent them out screw when removing drives. Drives bolts are nine M14 and trim cylinders 9pcs M10, should stay together.

Inside reinforcement plates are 6mm 304 stainless, M12 stainless bolts.

2" pipe thread both sides of boxes are for water pickups for engine and intercooler, two extra for water exit or waste gate outlet, but now I think not use any waste gates, diesel engine should boost as much as exhaust flow can make energy to spin compressors.

Four G1/4 ports are for trim and steering hydraulics. There will be zero through transom water or hydraulic fittings, all is welded to boxes. Hydraulic trim indicator ports will be made later, first season I drive without indicators. I have design own heads up indicators that are hydraulic actuated, no sticky and leaking cables anymore.

Center hole in boxes are driveshaft remove hole, 2m long shaft can not come out anywhere else. It will be under engine mouns so only way remove it is either remove engine mounts or back of extension boxes, CV joints have to wash and re-grease once a year so now maintenance should be easier.


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wow im not sure how i missed this build. but im going to go back through all 39 pages. heck of a job.