I think what you are asking for is the torque it takes to turn the assembly?

As for output, here is dyno results from a HP500EFI and HP525EFI on the same dyno in full marine trim. (Sea water pumps, power steering, marine exhaust (dry) etc. Ready to drop in. You can see where the 525's better breathing comes in.

EDIT:

I can not seem to upload a excel or .pdf.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...825a2b3e5f.jpg

This makes all of our project seem like we`re playing with coloring books!

I asked earlier 525EFI torque, I mean turning over by hand or cranking it, how much torque it takes to turn? I try make Transmash as efficient as possible, not only for fuel consumption but friction make wear and heat, both are not good. Transmash is same as 5 pcs 474cid engines, you can think how much friction is changing to heat.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...5a0cf90f6b.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...857744fb2d.jpg


I get pistons from my friend CNC shop, he did good job. Combustion chamber was 106ml in Nissan original piston and it's now 167ml, if valves go 2mm under head surface and there is 1.5mm squish, it will have 16:1 compression ratio that is good. It wasn't easy job to think what kind of combustion chamber is good and right size, so many dimensions are changed from original design that everything have to re-calculate.

Transmash rods are straight side and Nissan have angled rod small ends, of course they won't fit straight. More space is now milled but just enough so piston won't get weaker.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...5156fcd6aa.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6e08c83f62.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f5faafde9a.jpg


I started coating them by Tech Line TL-PTG ceramic coat, then TLML to skirts. This engine is making enormous side loads to cylinder walls, rod ratio is quite ok but still it makes tons of side force, some dry film lubricant won't be bad thing.


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...ba02546d8c.jpg
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https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...3fa84e602b.jpg

Cylinder bores and conrod small ends are coated with PKSX, I don't believe it last long but this is test. It's very slippery stuff and stick well, just wipe it on. It seems to block hone pattern but it won't, oil will take extra PKSX off

Does anybody here have any experiences about engine internal coatings? Good or bad?

I dont think you can compare a 502 cub in BBC cranking trq to a 12 cylinder tank engine............:readinghelp:

I want to compare internal friction, is it 5 times more or less? For example Volvo DH12 is very hard to turn over compared to FPT cursor 11 or Scania D13

I was all into those custom pistons until I saw that gold TBC on the top. My personal experience with TBC is it doesn't stick worth a crap. I paid to have professionally coated all 16 piston in Voodoo with the white TBC rather than the gold. Had been told the gold was for mostly for Nitrous temp shock applications, and the white was best for general high temps.

Soon as engines came off the dyno, had to replace both sets of head gaskets, and that's when I fond it... The coatings were pitted on top, and had started chipping off in dime size spots. Where it covered down to the top ring, it had streaked the bores from top to bottom.. Requiring a full disassembly and bore hone to bring it back. The pistons were sent back to the company who coated them, so they could remove it. I started to do with a sand blaster, but was to hard to tell where the coating stopped and alum began. Had way to much $ in pistons to risk it, so told the coating company to remove it correctly because there was 10k of aluminum I need back in same shape they started..

After talking with some of my diesel racing buddies, they convinced me to fine polish the piston tops and bowl area. Said that had proven to be more reliable for longevity than any coatings. 40hours with a die-grinder later, had 16 polished mirrors. You can find pics of pistons stock, coated, polished, and after 120hrs run time in Voodoos thread. Besides a very light carbon dusting, they look grate, and no scaring of cylinder wall now either.. My 2c..

Kidturbo, sad to hear that story.... was white coating water based? This TL-PTG is solvent based coating, I hope it stick better. I have heard that solvent based coatings stick way better than water based. Other good thing compared to your engines is much lower EGT, engine won't see 700C under 2000hp, after that I squirt water so much that EGT will stay low. I really hope coating will keep on, absolute too much work to make all again.

How high EGT duramax have in your application in cruise and WOT?

Pistons are coated and ready for assembly, hope coatings stick like they should, major problems if not.
I spray thick coat to skirts, if it doesn't wear it should take some clearance off, pistons are maybe little too loose but better that way.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...047bed81da.jpg
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All parts ready for assembly, Nissan pistons have bigger pin so aluminium bronze bushings is made to fit shortened Transmash pin. First compression ring had good cap (0.8mm) but I don't understand Nissan philosophy that second had smaller cap (0.5mm)?? I grind second to 0.9-1.0mm, it will blow down if pressure get past first, can't go pass second, pressure rises up between rings, lift compression ring off the seat and start blowby. I think second is just for oil control, nothing to do with compression. FPT book says second cap is ok to 1.4mm and bore is way smaller, maybe they have notice out same thing.....

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First I made basic cone piston ring compressor but oil ring have so much tension that this didn't work. I split it and weld nuts and bolts type clamping system to it, now it works when oil ring is compressed horizontaly.

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All pistons in cylinder bank, I hope that is possible to put all piston pins in when the pistons are in cylinders, but it didn't work. Last two won't fit unless other two's oil rings come out from cylinders. So four centers can be pre-assembled to cylinders and outermost have to put first to conrods, compress rings and try lower cylinder bank so rings go in, very very difficult but I made it! First bank take 5 hours, but other goes in 1.5 hours.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...81ed788706.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...0821384a5d.jpg
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Special piston ring compressor is needed to assembly special Transmash.



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150mm bore, 186mm stroke looks crazy! Nissan pistons compression ring is higher than transmash, it come pretty close to sleeve edge, but there are two millimeter safety, it's enough.

Next some transmission stuff.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1d4e570089.jpg
Dirty old tranmission control part, need to rebuild. It won't need any modifications, just boring rebuild.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...28cf2438dc.jpg
Parts disassembled and cleaned.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c117cedff3.jpg
Shift valve body rebuild.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...75593f4552.jpg
Homemade solenoid tester. Pneumatics show easily any hydraulic leaks, if it hold air, it will hold oil.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...979cd95f9a.jpg
Rebuild control system. ZF is completely electric controlled so it's easy to make own control methods for it.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...06a80213eb.jpg

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Enough bolts to hold it in place.... newer ecolife transmission had smaller control part though it's propotional valve controlled. This ecomat box is on-off but it have modulation valve to soften shift events, I wondering to use that modulation valve to smooth out N to 1 and N to R shifts so there is no bang when gear go in. It's easy to do with programable logic controller that I will use control the transmission.

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output shaft washers are temporary, some smart #ss find that out anyway :angry-smiley-038:

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...bc40a01314.jpg

Long post, but hope you like something that won't be find in mainstream.

Amazing work!

It was almost 8 years ago now, so don't recall the exact compound without digging. But was from https://swaintech.com/race-coatings/ and is popular in the racing industry. I have seen pistons with their gold coating option that came out of 1500hp Duramax trucks. Those didn't show pitting or flaking, but more of a heat ablation around the sharp edges. As one might expect. So for your, EGT shouldn't impact it. But would still suggest you bore scope it after break in to verify it's sticking.

What I can say about the white coating, it was actually malleable when cold. But hard as an egg shell once ya put a torch to it. When installing first pistons, the end of my wooden hammer left a dent it. So we halted to investigate. Contacted company, claimed it was normal to be softer at room temp. If a wooden stick can imprint it cold, what's a 2000bar 6 hole fuel jet blasting it gonna do? I didn't like the answers, and my piston manufacture agreed with polishing technique, if I was willing to put in that time. So far,so good..

700c is average cruising EGT on Voodoo. However, full tilt 60psi boost in the 1000hp tune, that jumps to 1000-1040c. On the dyno we ran them at 930c sustained for 20 minutes or longer to check heat soaking and clearances. They were setup loose, and it takes some throttle to get them up to happy temps. Below 3000r or 70mph, they're a bit gassy..

Keep up the great work. An engineering masterpiece. :-)