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Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
(Post 4921912)
.what caused the damage to edge of the seat
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Engine assembly is going on fast!
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f86ddde850.jpg Injectors ready to install. I spray permatex head gasket spray to help sealing to head. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...00d0b9540e.jpg Camshafts are grinded to my own specs, they have now 15mm lift, 230 degree 1mm to 1mm intake duration and 240 exhaust. Pretty wild for diesel but poor head flow need long duration. In overlap TDC valves are only 1.8mm open because there is not more space for valves, they will hit pistons at 3.8mm lift in TDC. I coat cams with PSKX, it stick good to nitrided surface. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...27dddd6327.jpg Bearing housings are re-coated with PSKX after line honing. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...be1d34f115.jpg Big lift cams are hard to install, large tools needed:cool-smiley-011: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8f10440091.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...ff0a477d52.jpg Valve lash adjustment with special tool times 48, boring.... Lash is now 0.25mm intake, 0.30 exhaust. Transmash originals was 2.3mm both, so now you get it how easy was grind 2mm more lift to cams.... https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...97da23fb09.jpg Timing gears, these are made by very clever humans, gears are simple, bullet proof and easy to adjust. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b9e9f325d3.jpg Camshaft have 10 splines, gears have 36, so ten times 36 is 360, that many different way intermediate piece can be assembled. In other word it have one (camshaft) degree adjustment by splines, ingeniuos!! Intermediate piece have M22x1.5 bolt that is locked to part so bolt acts like puller and pusher at same time, no other tools needed. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c0cc798d1a.jpg It's easy to ajust, just turn cam in right angle and find out when locking piece can go in. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7e8f8c8cfc.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6150699dc0.jpg Camshafts had to lift up 2mm to get spring pressure right so timing gear have to lift same amount, I adjust tooth play and figured out right contact pattern with dyestuff, looks good. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...d329709271.jpg Quadcam timing without any marks to your own timings need some serious thinking and head scratching... https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...06d81ca4be.jpg Here you can see some high lift:cool-smiley-011: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6d97ecb2cf.jpg Homemade reusable intake gaskets. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e528a4ee6a.jpg Injetion pump timing have to adjust next and then just bolt on all rest parts, not a big deal anymore! |
Absolutely phenominal work, best I've ever seen :cool:
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Engine assembly continue,this is big job.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f2547aa81f.jpg Engine must be inline with transmission,power goes through splined sleeve so not much error permissible. I made special tool from old Volvo truck transmission clutch housing. tight sleeve over transmash crankshaft is bolted in absolute center point of bellhousing, engine have to move right position in engine bed so bellhousing go in place, then tighten 8pcs M14 bolts to fix engine and bed together. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...864497d13d.jpg Steel spacer ring is needed to make more stiffnes and make more offset for transmission. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...4205b647bd.jpg Cooling water flow is modified now, water goes first to exhaust manifolds, next to between each exhaust ports in head, next down both side of head around the sleeves and out to water manifold from each cylinder, this is called reverse flow. Only way to go in my mind, coldest water goes to most heated area and sleeves are as hot as they can be to prevent piston seizing. I can't understand raw water cooled engines without circulating threeway thermostats, catastrofic for all cylinder dimensions in working temperatures. Diesels will ruin pistons if cold water is routed straight to engine block, it's easy to calculate what is piston to wall clearance if you reduce liner temperature. Now hottets cooling water is around liner to give as much clearance for pistons as possible under hard load, still heads stay cool to prevent warping and cracking. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...fd78433fc5.jpg Oil system is little complicated because all oil lines are external, there are no lubrication channels in engine block. I use Volvo D13 engine oil filter housing, it have all valves inside, piston cooling valve, thermostat valve and pressure limiting valve. I try control oil pressure by piston cooling so when engine reach 10bar oil pressure, piston cooling open and keep main oil pressure at 10 bars and all exess oil go to piston cooling, If cold oil expecially won't go trough cooling jets enough, Transmash original pressure control in drysump pump reduce pressure to 10.5bars. Time show how this work but pistons should get as much cooling as possible. I build piston cooling jets, Transmash doesn't have them in stock. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c82f8f557b.jpg 5 heat exchangers, cooling water, oil cooler, hydraulics/transmission cooler, power steering cooler and splitbox cooler. All homemade exept oil cooler, it's some old big allison transmission cooler https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9af887961e.jpg Dry sump tank is some used Nashcar tank, I buy it from ebay. Should be pretty well made. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...eab6f69996.jpg New prelube pump, it didn't work. I bought double 1 series hydraulic pump, 4cc for savage oilpan and 1.4cc to build oil pressure for engine. All good if both suction lines are full of oil but if either take air both won't pump:hitfan: I have to disassembly it and make some seal between stages, then it should work. Electric motor is brushless and it's awesome, almost no heat when I build pressure first time. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...79295c9316.jpg Old brushmotor pump made from old volvo powersteering pump, too big flow, it burn 500W motor. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9cc2a30833.jpgHX80 91mm intake 96mm exhaust are pretty big in size but too small for Transmash, but this is what I try first, they are easy to mill bigger wheels. Another aluminium tank is coolant recervoir. It's made from truck aluminium air tank, I wan't pressurise coolant to maybe 3 bars when power levels go up to prevent steam pockets.' https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f203fbd502.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...bc24eb7c97.jpg EGR system. I'm pretty sure this is only Transmash in world that have EGR. It's necessary to take all smell and haze out when engine is cold, solenoid valve control 38mm "waste gates" that allow hot exhaust gas get to intake manifold warm intake air to about 100c. This way exhaust won't smell unburned diesel at all! other benfit is engine heat up much sooner, ideal condition is that when no wake zone ends beginning of trip, thermostats are already open. Engine will be much more happy to take load if it's in working temperature. I mhave to find heat resistan 35mm hose somewhere between intake and ports. Engine won't have real wastegates at all, it can boost as much as it can, I hope like 4bars some day:cool-smiley-011:' Charge cooler have to made next year, now it's better to test boat at lower power levels, it should make 1500hp without anyway. |
Wow!! Just Wow!! Amazing work and progress!
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Last test run engine didn't idle below 1000rpm because there were no flywheel. I try solve problem to machine flywheel over coupling sleeve, no power go through flywheel, it's only flywheel. I hope this inertia is enough to get idle down to 600rpm
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...2d0084f93a.jpg Flywheel and coupling sleeve have 20 degree taper on back, another sleeve is placed between big nut and flywheel and it's locked by three M12 bolts. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...621d9d0546.jpg Nut is also locked mechanically. Transmission is now ready to put to engine. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7cea13bdba.jpg But crankshaft is 25mm too long, it would bottom to transmission input shaft. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...44a01af38b.jpg No problem, I connect starter to 8bar air and crankshaft rotate slowly, angle grinder is best way to machine billet crankshaft.... https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a1381eaff3.jpg Spline have to be as smooth surface as possible because coupling sleeve O ring go over spline, good silicon grease and precision assembly keep O ring intact. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...14ee6a23ec.jpg Power unit start looks more ready, powertrain oil hoses and filters are next job. It's awesom to see own ideas from CAD drawings to reality! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...387a54a8db.jpg New prelube pump have problem, there is port between stages in intake side. If either pump draw air both won't pump. I order another intermediate plate and assemble it another way, then port is closed and pump will work. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e0d8e4ccca.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...72439d843d.jpg Hydraulic driven accessory drive has been introduced before. It work great in last test run. Need just cleaning and assembly. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...87b1858d61.jpg More fiberglass work, someone had forget anchor in front anchor box in big seas. Bottom was completely ruined, I take old plywood core out and laminate new composite bottom. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a73c0fa04e.jpg Hull side was delaminated in Skagerrag across race back in days, it have repaired good except fairing job. Fairing is made with thickened vinylester resin and it had shrunken so spider web cracks is everywhere. I don't want grind it to fiberglass so I try inject epoxy inside hullside. Cracks in picture are grind open by cone shape rotating file. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...845af7daa4.jpg Found some air pockets, they will be full of epoxy soon. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...ec133e162c.jpg My three year old infusion bag leak repair girl. She have lot of talent already. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...5739208167.jpg Infusion bag ready and seal. Hull leak air from inside out, it make job more diffiicult. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...3fcacc12c0.jpg Injection was succeed! all cracks and air pockets are now full of epoxy, I mix red pigment in epoxy, thinking use boat first season without paint but it is too rough. Some cracks were little short of epoxy so I fill them with basic epoxy filler. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7a1b40eedd.jpg Tikkurila epoxy filler paint is very good to make last fairing. Just paint thick by roller and sand easily fair. Next thing is get some car painter with paint analyzing equipment to find out right hue and order acryl paint. I will dispel (I don't know right word) paint haze, then polish hull. I only paint this part of hull, nothing more. Time show how it goes. Long post again but all go forward and I'm pleased how all go forward, this is pretty big job for one guy. |
Simply amazing
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Originally Posted by outonsafari
(Post 4723053)
I hope you continue to update this build thread on a regular basis.
keep the pictures coming for all the work as it progresses. this is going to be an awesome project that all of us would like to follow, and i think it will be successful. It's already a success, way up there with heaths' miami vice, gavins cat, couple more i'm sure. Another can't wait til it runs project, awesome job |
Originally Posted by outonsafari
(Post 4923207)
I told you guys ! way back on page 2, i told ya so !
It's already a success, way up there with heaths' miami vice, gavins cat, couple more i'm sure. Another can't wait til it runs project, awesome job P.S. Love the helper, “infusion bag girl”, so cute. :) RR |
Accessory drive, transmission hydraulics and splitbox in place except splitbox oil suction line from both lowest points to oil pump. Pump is old Mercedes powersteering pump with hydraulic rear suspension height adjusment. That suspension pump work now splitbox pump, it just suck oil from box and push it through cooler and filter. I made return line to center gear bearing cup so it get more oil to lubricate and cooling.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9eba0a5d67.jpg Two filters are for transmission and engine hydraulics (they are same system) and splitbox filter. Transmission pressure control valve is mounted to left engine bracket. Pressure can be set to 15-40 bar, I think 30bar is enough to prevent clutch slip. High pressure hydraulic hoses have to make in hydraulic shop, they press fittings by machine. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...dd8acfbb3b.jpg Homemade three section oil cooler, power streering, splitbox and hydraulics/transmission. Near hydraulic pump is pressure limiting valve that is set to 200bar, this pressure drive raw water pump accessory drive and transmission. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...2a81c7a959.jpg Last test run engine puke oil out from dry sump tank. Engine vacuum pump savage to dry sump tank earlier and it was bad idea. Vacuum pump have so much air flow that air stream take engine savaging oil with it and blow it out. Now I made separate puke tank that act like separator, dry sump tank breathe also to puke tank. I think to make oil savaging from puke tank to valve cover, it should work greate because valve covers have vacuum inside so small line draw oil out from breather tank. There is some oil frow because vacuum pump draw lubrication oil from dry sump tank straight to pump so it seal and cool better. Breather tank air will be routed inside airfilter so engine eat it own sh*t. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...cbf9da17eb.jpg Dashboard will be mounted to engine, all electronics and pneumatics will be assembled in plastic box, transmission control unit goes there too. My friend wrap whole thing to matt black tape so it looks better, now it looks bad but no affect to performance. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7268405b30.jpg UHD camera transfer dashboard from engine room to real dash in cockpit via HDMI cable. I can record signal and get unlimited amount of datalog channels. Somekind of led worklight have to put behind camera to get clear vision. Brightness control can be made to dim the backlight. 21.5" screen have automatic brightness control and even separate sensor for that. I save ton of wire and hose doing dashboard like this. Engine remove and assembly is also easier because not a single gauge wire have to disconnect. |
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