Steering linkage
 

I noticed that my steering is tied together inside the transom and I have a tie bar connecting the drives as well. The previous owner actually raised the left side of the starboard engine so the exhaust would clear the "tie rod" inside the transome. Does the steering need to be connected both inside and outside the transom? Can I disconnect the "tie rod" inside the transom and just leave the tie bar on the back of the drives?

Yes...I have my inside tie rod off. This being said you really want to make sur your outside bar is in perfect shape. New tie rod ends are a must if they look the slightest bit worn.

Dumb question- why would you want your inside tie rod off? What would be the advantage of that?

Jaxx 30- shoot a photo and lets see what you are talking about- I can shoot some close-ups of all my stuff to give you a better idea how things fit if it would help, with everything out its easier to see- let me know.

From a simple mechanical standpoint it would seem one tie bar, be it inside or outside, should be sufficient to keep the drives pointed right, and the outermost position being most efficient. I have a hunch that there is a bit of binding going on when the drives are turned. Therefore I will be eliminating the inside tiebar. I would like to get rid of the ball joints and go with sphereical rod ends.............

As far as pics are concerned my camera downloads way to big to post without messing with resizing and I HATE IT!

I have also found there will still be interference the the steering linkage and the starboard engine left side exhaust tube/hose even after the inside tiebar is deleted. I think I have a fix for that.

Quick question for the pros........instead of having four separate engine mounts on the stringers, why not a one piece engine "cradle" that mounts on the stringers that would also beef up and add rigidity to the ass end of the boat? You could mount the engines in the "cradle" and install and pull both engines at the same time.

Question- in another thread Westcoast is asking about better hydraulic steering because his is a little loose- and as cheap as Wellcraft was I don't see them putting a extra tiebar in just for the he1l of it. Now I have never had this boat in the water yet- but my old Stinger 312 had the same steering system and it was tight- so maybe it makes a difference. Just my .02:rolleyes:

I removed the inner tiebar because I was messing around with drive alingnemt. I wasen't able to adjust that easly with the inner bar in place. I would have re-installed it but I dropped some of the hardware and haven't gotten around to getting the parts I need to put it back in place. Having the inner bar out has nothing to do with the play in my steering. The play is from the tiller arm and the upper swivel shaft on the starbard gimble.

To answer your question...they are called offshore mounts.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhh, thank you.

When are you going to sneak down to San Diego and take a ride on my boat?

If I can get the time off and rid of the kids for a weekend I'll let you know. My wife loves San Diego. Hows the weather down there? It was 104 here over the weekend.

Today it was 77. We have been getting a little "june glume" in the morning but it tends to burn off by 11:00. Let me know..even if you just come down for a day trip.

Chances are good that it came with only the inside bar than the outside was added. If you use both inside and outside there is a geometric bind when drives are trimmed uneven. This will eat the upper swivel and tiller arm joints. The proper way to use two bars is to have a slot in the inner. It will then be a safety and the slot allows for drives to be trimmed uneven. With the quality of bar ends and clevises available two bars really aren't necessary.

I knew there was a reason I took mine off:cool-smiley-011:

Alright- Alright- you guys win! :party-smiley-004: I am going to fly down to San Diego just to stay motivated!!!:D

Nothing beats the 4th of july in san diego!

Geometrically speaking it is hard to just slap linkage inside and then outside the transom and then expect the geometry to line up. In the steering of autos you can find incorrect geometry in factory cars and it gives you "bumpsteer". I seriously think I have some binding going on in the linkage and I can see how it would wear out joints/clevis ect.

I just got in my raw water pumps-pretty bronze things. Am I supposed to be able to turn them by hand? I sure cant!

you should be able to turn them when there wet.

That is what I thought, but you never know.........

I have to work on the 4th!!!:throw: