Jumpjets

Twin 454s. They have crane gold rocker arms. I don’t know too much else about them. I’ve heard them run, but it was over a year ago. They have big cams. They both freely crank & turn over.

Is this a Rochester carb? Should I replace the filter in the front case? How do I refill the bowls since they’ve been sitting?


Transmission and starter. Kinda hard to work on with the engine hatch in place. I might pull off the engine hatch for a couple months.

Side view of starter and transmission.

Other side of transmission. Is this a velvet drive 71C or 72C? Can you tell from looking at the outside?

Jumpjets

Helm. Only the tachs function. I pulled all this stuff out yesterday. It’ll get replaced with autometer marine stuff.

Steering and throttle linkages are in good shape. How do I clean up the finish on the throttle box? It’s got lumpy, sharp corrosion spots all over it. I wanted to replace it, but wife wants to keep the vintage look.

Cabin. Needs all new upholstery & a good cleaning.

Cockpit. We’ll put in new front seats & reupholster the rest.

Tartilla

Great looking Scarab. Really impressive.

TRS props are turning out right now.

Props turning out have stern lifting characteristics. Props turning in will pull the stern into the water...lifting the bow. Diff props and setup will tune your hull to what if needs.
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TRS have left and right prop shafts. They are diff and will have the stamp on the end of the prop threads.

The left turn prop shaft has the gear facing the opposite way.
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​There is no transmission in the TRS drives. Both the Velvet drive and engines both turn the stock direction...they are the same.

TRS drives are very strong...but don't like the hookup up 4 blade props on re-entry into the water. They will serve you well...take care of them, parts are harder to find.

Tartilla

The green id tag on the trans will tell you what it is.

Carb is a quadrajet. You should have a proper spin on filter before carbs. The carb filter is more screen like...last ditch effort to prevent stuff getting in.

You must have mechanical fuel pumps then? Perfect example of why electric fuel pumps are better in a marine application. You pretty much have to crank the engines to activate the mech pumps to fill the bowls.

Alternatively, if you wanted to check the spark plugs...and un-power your ign coil... you can spin the engine faster and maybe get some compression tests on some cylinders. Provided you have plug access...

Basic tune-up...new correctly gapped plugs.

Tartilla

Teleflex throttles do that when in the weather, and age.

It's likely the alum oxidizing under the chrome finish. Probably not a lot you can do.

I have the same controls. I prefer individual levers for transmissions....with separate throttles. Safer, and easier to run I think. To run just the throttle you need to pull the lever to the side. Your hull is pretty modern...no retro look required....lol

Tartilla

Looks like raw water cooling?

Where are you going to run the boat? Salt of Fresh water?

Tartilla

Gelcoat revitalization...depending on how oxidized it is...you can get away with a good 1000 grit buffing compound.

Aqua Buff 1000 is maybe the best? It's water based not petrol based. Get the smaller 500ml size. Lots if good youtube vids on how to use it.

Agua Buff 1000...then Aqua Buff 2000...
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If you need to wet sand...1000 grit...then aqua buff 1000/2000.
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Then use a good wax to bring it up.

PRO brand Aircraft RV boat wax is really good.

Do a test patch of the process in a small area to confirm the outcome.
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If you end up wet sanding...you may end up with a better gelcoat surface than factory.

division1 one here...spent 80hrs sanding and filling his engine bay to perfection...before painting.
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What cost would that add to the factory price? Even finding motivated employees to dig in deep on a task like that is difficult at best.

​​​​If the deck it really oxidized...I've found the dollar store green scrubby rectangles are great for removing the bulk of the powdery residue...use with water of course.

Team Archer

The Green tag Transmissions are C72s Red tags are C71.

larslindroth

Congrats! Your boat has lots of potential. The cabin looks to be in great shape, and hopefully, your motors and drives are in excellent running condition too. These mid-'80s offshore performance boats, in the right colors, are now cool classics. Your guys' boat is i.m.h.o. in one of the best '80s color combinations. We've got a local Scarab III 340, in similar colors with twin 450 hp 502s and TRS drives, here in Newport Beach, SoCal, and it always gets thumbs way up. Your teak looks to be in good condition and I would certainly keep that classy look. The dash would be nice if you upgraded it, but I'd keep it black and definitely not put some carbon-looking, not period-correct stuff on this classic. Keep it ol' school and maybe even do the cockpit interior in a high-quality tuck-and-roll vinyl that maybe goes in matching white, red, silver, and black? Good luck with a very nice project.

Tartilla

Great info on the color coding.