89 Pachanga 383 stroker exhuast question?
#22
On my P22 I have stainless marine exhaust without the mufflers. sounds pretty good. Here are some pictures of the exhaust. The second picture shows the elbow in the back. Its not quite a 90 degree elbow. I can take some better pictures if you are interested. I have a video of the boat idling on the trailer and a video at speed. here are the links.
Idle(Phone Quality): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8H4Q7nLoaA
At Speed: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PfLYOm7tYhs
Idle(Phone Quality): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8H4Q7nLoaA
At Speed: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PfLYOm7tYhs
#23
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Join Date: Jul 2013
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I purchased a P-27 mid-season last summer and had about 10 hours of use prior to getting water intrusion in one motor. I took it to my local marina who diagnosed a cracked head. They replaced the head (with a re-built head) I also had new exhaust manifolds, risers, and elbows installed. After the work was done, I water test it, but the weather only permitted a short run, maybe 10 minutes and all seemed fine. Needless to say with less than an hour of total run time on that motor it blew up.
FWIW-- I wanted to take it out for a longer run to shake it down but wasn’t able to get back to the boat for about 2 weeks after that initial 10 minute run. The next time I went out, I ran it for about 10 minutes, basically idling between 1,100 -1,400 RPM’s through the “no wake” zone on the way to the local gas dock and then off for a shakedown… After getting gas, I was cursing at 3,200-3,400 RPM for about 10 minutes and then the RPM started to drop and within 15-20 seconds the motor shut down… The oil on the dipstick was black and smelt burnt. When I got back to the dock I pulled the valve covers off to find a very loose rocker arm. When the guy who did the work looked at it, he said it was nothing to do with the head and the motor had water in it again and busted a connecting rod. Anyway, the reason I’m posting this here. He/the marina feels the water intrusion is due to the way the pipe that runs between the two elbows dips inward. I’m not sure I agree with this…
The boat lived most of its life in fresh water and everything seemed original. I asked the prior owner if he ever had water intrusion/ ingestion and said he never had any issues of water intrusion (I want to believe the P.O. and he has no reason to lie, at least not at this point). Anyway the shop/marina suggest I have the pipe cut and welded so it dips outward vs. inward. I would like to hear some opinions from others who have done exhaust work on the boats. Also, if you think the pitch of that pipe should be changes, maybe you have some suggestions as to a more cost effective way to deal with this issue.
Thanks in advance…
(Cant figure how to post a picture- but it's twin 350's)
http://www.offshoreonly.com/gallery/...haust&cat=3117
FWIW-- I wanted to take it out for a longer run to shake it down but wasn’t able to get back to the boat for about 2 weeks after that initial 10 minute run. The next time I went out, I ran it for about 10 minutes, basically idling between 1,100 -1,400 RPM’s through the “no wake” zone on the way to the local gas dock and then off for a shakedown… After getting gas, I was cursing at 3,200-3,400 RPM for about 10 minutes and then the RPM started to drop and within 15-20 seconds the motor shut down… The oil on the dipstick was black and smelt burnt. When I got back to the dock I pulled the valve covers off to find a very loose rocker arm. When the guy who did the work looked at it, he said it was nothing to do with the head and the motor had water in it again and busted a connecting rod. Anyway, the reason I’m posting this here. He/the marina feels the water intrusion is due to the way the pipe that runs between the two elbows dips inward. I’m not sure I agree with this…
The boat lived most of its life in fresh water and everything seemed original. I asked the prior owner if he ever had water intrusion/ ingestion and said he never had any issues of water intrusion (I want to believe the P.O. and he has no reason to lie, at least not at this point). Anyway the shop/marina suggest I have the pipe cut and welded so it dips outward vs. inward. I would like to hear some opinions from others who have done exhaust work on the boats. Also, if you think the pitch of that pipe should be changes, maybe you have some suggestions as to a more cost effective way to deal with this issue.
Thanks in advance…
(Cant figure how to post a picture- but it's twin 350's)
http://www.offshoreonly.com/gallery/...haust&cat=3117
Last edited by suss1173; 06-18-2015 at 11:46 AM. Reason: trying to add picture
#24
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Bud, start a thread of your own. It's OK to reference this thread but you should have your own thread.
To answer you, the starboard collector end appears to be above your exhaust, That's no go. You need downward slope so you won't get reversion. Also are you running hot cams? They will have a major affect on reversion too. Stock is least reversion, but why do that unless your engine came that way and you haven't had a chance to correct it yet.
To answer you, the starboard collector end appears to be above your exhaust, That's no go. You need downward slope so you won't get reversion. Also are you running hot cams? They will have a major affect on reversion too. Stock is least reversion, but why do that unless your engine came that way and you haven't had a chance to correct it yet.
Last edited by NHGuy; 06-20-2015 at 08:59 PM.