f311fr1

Figure out what you need to to dress out the engine. Take the starter and alternator to a rebuild shop and have them gone through. A Delco shop usually does good work for a fair $.

bouyhunter

Joe, THANKS!!
I got the package this morning when I went into the office.
I went ahead and sandblasted them before I left.
They look Great!
I know you mentioned to have the breather's welded onto the covers - excuse my ignorance, but, why? Just curious.
Over the course of the winter, I need to have the alternator rebuilt.
What Kind of money am i looking at to have that done? I'm thinking $50-75??
My engine builder was suggesting replacing the starter with something smaller, I forget what he said, but he was recommending just changing it. I figure $200 or so... maybe less?

I'm still working on other things on the boat too.
I need to replace the lifeline cable down the deck, and I have someone that's supposed to get a quote back to me Mon/Tues. to have it made up.
I drew up the gauge cluster in Autocad yesterday, and need to start figuring out what I'm gonna do up there.
It already has a nice Isotta steering wheel, but the gauges are original 1980.

f311fr1

Tim I have Jabsco sea water pump with mount, 10 x 3 or 8 x 5 Gaffrig flame arrestor, 2 x 12 oil cooler with or with out power steering cooler built in, and newer style trim pumps for out drive and K Planes. $75 ought to cover the alternator rebuild. A new small starter will be more than $200. Closer to $350. Be sure to get marine rated. The breathers are designed to bolt in from the bottom. I just do not like the idea of small scews backing out into the valve train. The fill cap has to be welded in any way, so do the breathers at the same time. Throw the gaskets and screws away. Do not use the gaskets between the the top of the breather and cap or they wont breath. Dry fit the placement with the exhaust and risers on the engine to avoid clearance issues.

bouyhunter

Gotcha on the welding of the breathers.
When it comes to motor stuff, I'm kind of ignorant. I understand the basics, and I know what looks nice, but admittedly, beyond that, I'm counting on you guys and my motor guys to guide me.

The oil cooler I have is apparently stock. Funny, when we decided to break the motor down, ITTLFLI said let's pull the oil cooler and see what we've got. I had to ask him where it was, and what it looked like. Again, I'll be humble in my ignorance. But, I'm learning.
Here's a pic of what I currently have. Stock Merc F/A, and the oil cooler is 2x9".
What are the suggestions?

f311fr1

Tim was this cooler mounted down low by the motor mount? We usually mount the larger coolers on the back over the bell housing. You really should run a themostatic oil filter head if you plan to run in the Great Lakes. Look at Hardin, they have a version that can mount on the front of the port head with the filter vertical pointing down.

bouyhunter

Yep. mounted under the Port side motor mount.
Not sure what I need and don't need. Lake Erie was my backyard as a kid, so that's all I'm used to.
Never had all this fancy stuff on a motor before. But it sure is Cool!

f311fr1

You will need to run a #10 braided line like Goodridge or Aeroquip on the oil lines. Your cooler has provision for oil and power steering both. I think Sue is coming to Hebron the week between Christmas and New Year. If you are going to be around I might come with her and bring some of my catalogs/wish books. If you have your engine there I could go over some of what you need and how to do it.

bouyhunter

I should be here then. The boat is in the back yard, and the motor is at the builder's place - about 30 mins away.
Come on up!! Montgomery Inn for ribs!

f311fr1

I think we are looking @ Dec 28th.

bouyhunter

This is Mrs. Bouyhunter.

debating about some seats. If we purchase stand-up bolsters we will look like and feel like the empire stat buildin in the middle of a 10 acre field. looking at the attached........what do you think????
Bouyhunter and I are debating the pros and cons.

JJ