i was changing my '90 stock exhaust riser gaskets cuz they were starting to seep. Changed out one side with new gasket and new stainless steel bolts, i torqued them to 50 ft. lbs. since that's what my mechanic said to do. On the other side, i had to reuse two bolts, the ones that go through the oil filter holder and through the riser, they are an inch longer than the rest and couldn't find them at the hardware store like the 6 inch stainless steel. One of those longer bolts busted on me trying to get to 50 ft. lbs, every other bolt was good other than that one. Is 50 correct, or should it be something else. My buddy is on a search for a new bolt tomorrow, might have to get one from the merc dealer, not sure. I just don't want to bust another, i have a poker run to attend saturday. thanks

ryan

I was looking on this site the other day and ran across this.......

http://www.perfprotech.com/home/tech...haust-tips.htm

BOLTS & TORQUE:
Do not use stainless steel or grade 2 bolts to install the risers or elbows. These bolts are too soft and will not hold a torque setting, which can cause leaks at the gasket surface. Bolt torque should be reset after initial startup, while the engine is still warm. Refer to your original manufacturer's engine service manual for specific torque settings. As a rule of thumb we suggest about 40 Lb-Ft for 3/8 fasteners. HOWEVER THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO REMEMBER WHEN TORQUEING MARINE EXHAUST PRODUCTS IS TO PERFORM IN A UNIFORM PATTERN IN ABOUT 2-3 SEPARATE SEQUENCES. 1) 10 LB-FT FOLLOWED BY GOING ON UP TO 25 LB-FT THEN FOLLOWED BY TAKING THE TORQUE UP TO THE FINAL RATING. THE TORQUE SHOULD THEN BE CHECKED AFTER RUNNING THE ENGINE FOR 30 MINUTES THEN AGAIN AFTER 20 HOURS. Never use anti-seize type products on bolts or studs as this can allow for loosening of the parts.

the stainless bolts torqued down fine with no problems, it was the two bolts that i had to reuse that gave me a problem

ryan