I would like to know if anyone has had luck using a copper gasket for the header flange to head gasket. I know the standard CMI one's work to some level but seem to crush after time and start to leak. Does copper gaskets work any better?

Thanks,
Rick

Rick -

Usually you need to retorque the bolts to prevent this issue.

How are the engines coming?

Kirk

Kirk,
I did do the retorque. However, when we removed them this fall they were sealed but close to failing. I was wondering how much longer before they would fail and if copper gaskets would work better.

Engines are in final stages, I plan on painting them Saturday.

Rick

Any major issues? Or just standard rebuild/freshen?

Rick

Are you using locking fasteners

Klaw

No major issues, everything looked good except for the soot buildup and glazed cylinders from running so rich. Turned out to be basic refresh job - rings, bearings, springs, rebuild lifters, new rockers.

Klaw, no locks. I have heard of those that lock. After inspecting the gasket it doesn't appear to be an issue with the bolts loosing but the gasket crushing over time and gap opening up. I installed new gaskets last winter, retightened once about July. The bolts didn't seem loose this fall when I took them off but the soot markes on the gasket looked like it was close to the point of leaking.

Rick

Rick,
What works the best is ARP header stud kit with the SCE copper gaskets. Once the engine is run then I retighten the studs and they do not loosen again.

Dean

Dean,
Thanks for the input. That copper works ok with the aluminum head and stainless steel header flange?

Rick

I use the fepro 1411 .rettourqe after the dyno run and again once after I run it once in the boat .Stays tight all summer.

Havent tried the copper ones yet.

on turbo or blown eng. i have used earls pressure seal gaskets never a failure also arp studs