Can someone confirm trim pump diagnosis?
#1
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
Symptoms: Trim pump will not run on 1 of the drives, solenoids click both up and down. I measured the voltage to the positive solenoid terminal and I am getting 12 volts. I jumped from the positive terminal to the blue/white motor wire and the motor did not work. This does mean the motor is bad doesn't it? I do not have trim limit wires. The only thing that is strange is that last year the trim down switch which is located on my Marine Machine throttles would not work, I had to use the dash switch to do this. Is this definitely two seperate problems or could it just be the one pump? Thanks for the help. Eric
#2
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Austin,Texas
Sounds like two problems. When you crossed the red to the blue/white you were crossing both at big lugs on solenoid? If so pump is bad or has lost its ground. You can try some love taps on top of trim motor while clicking solenoids for a short term fix. Pump can be stuck and shorted or have an open circuit.
Also some have a square fuse block connector on the solenoid. You can jump around it to trouble shoot.
Also some have a square fuse block connector on the solenoid. You can jump around it to trouble shoot.
Last edited by MOBILEMERCMAN; 03-19-2008 at 10:39 PM.
#3
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From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
I get twelve volts when I connect the leads of the volt meter to the positive post and the ground(Also the ground for the other pump which works) I also get 12 volts before and after the fuse block. When I do this on the other pump it works!
#4
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Nothing worse than sliding off the trailer on the Friday before a holiday weekend and finding that your drive that's tilted up won't tilt down. It's just one of those things that happens. I have a spare as well as spares for the other ittems you can't get at a NAPA on a Sunday morning.
If one's bad, assume the other one is too. They've both been doing the same amount of work and getting the same amount of vibration and moisture. The "working" one probably isn't far behind.
If one's bad, assume the other one is too. They've both been doing the same amount of work and getting the same amount of vibration and moisture. The "working" one probably isn't far behind.
#7
take it to a local mom and pop starter/alternator rebuild shop and have the "old man" behind the counter thats been rebuilding stuff for 50 years look at it. He will clean out all the years of corrosion, put in $3 worth of brushes and send you on your way for $35. Thats what I did. If he can't fix it your out a $20 diagnosis. Those guys can do anything.
#8
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From: Hendersonville, TN. Soon to be Sanford, FL
Eric,
H&H Elec. her in Hendersonville does this. They've built many a heavy duty alt. for race apps. They've built 2 for me over the years. Dean could also prob. name a few, as he has several auto shops as clients. Ken
H&H Elec. her in Hendersonville does this. They've built many a heavy duty alt. for race apps. They've built 2 for me over the years. Dean could also prob. name a few, as he has several auto shops as clients. Ken
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