Transom and Stringer Question
#5
#6
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Moisture content is everything. Wet one's don't dry. Just because it's not soft today, your drives may fall off in 2 years (exxageration for effect)
Most quality boats have enough fiberglass to hide most wood rot- you don't notice it until it's so bad you're starting to see failures. A common one is collapse of the transom- there's no wood to hold the gumbal and transom plate apart so it starts to flex, then leak. Cigarette 35's are notorious for the one tab bolt that screws right into the end of the stringer- if improperly sealed, it will soak the transom and stringer.
Most quality boats have enough fiberglass to hide most wood rot- you don't notice it until it's so bad you're starting to see failures. A common one is collapse of the transom- there's no wood to hold the gumbal and transom plate apart so it starts to flex, then leak. Cigarette 35's are notorious for the one tab bolt that screws right into the end of the stringer- if improperly sealed, it will soak the transom and stringer.
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From: Rolla/LOTO MO
#9
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Transoms rot around where they leak- gimbal cutouts and any holes. Somebody mounts a depth finder transducer and doesn't seal the screw- nex thing you know, the transom is soaked and on it's way to rotting. You probably don't see much rot above the waterline unless there's something holding moisture. Lots of old glass cruisers with wood decks and houses rotted at the joints- water would seep in and soak into the wood at the joints.
#10
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Some high-end manufacturers build with composites in stringers, bulkheads and transoms. It adds alot of cost and is unnecessary if the boat is constructed properly. The problem usually stems from some DIY guy neglecting to seal a hole. On mid-range and cheapie boats (like Bayliners & Fountains) they just don't give a $hit- the boat will be long out of warranty by the time they rot.




