New cam install & break-in
#1
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I'm installing a new crane cam as part of my engine rebuild. Although the break-in instructions with the cam don't mention it, the machine shop told me the guys over at crane say the proper way to break -in a cam is to use only a single spring during the break-in period and then install the double spring. I never did this before, is this something new?
#2
As I've always known it, the correct procedure fro breaking in a flat tappet cam is to run it at 2000 - 2500 rpm for 15 - 20 minutes on initial start up. No idling until the break in is completed. I have heard that some people will remove the inner spring to reduce the stress on the cam during this break in. I have never done that, and I've never had a problem with a cam. It certainly couldn't hurt anything to do that and it would add an extra level of insurance. The next thing after break in is to immediately change the oil and filter as all of the metal from the cam and lifters wearing into each other will now be in your filter. After that, you should be good to go.
#3
#5
Straight from Crane. I also highly reccomend use of EOS i frunning a flat tappet cam. Just some info for you your choice.
http://cranecams.org/pdf/548e.pdf
http://cranecams.org/pdf/548e.pdf
#6
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So is it OK to run the boat on the trailer for the 20-30 minutes or does it need to be under load. It's a 15 minute no wake ride from launch point to open water so the boat would be only turning at around 1000 -1200 rpm for that first 15 minutes.
#7
Just my .02 but it does not need to be under load. Biggest thing is RPM as cam and lifters are splashed oiled to an extent. Low RPM during break in is not a good thing. Hardest part of running on the trailer is having enough water supply to run reccomended RPM during break in. If you can tie up the ramp at a low use time I have run them in while sitting on the trailer at the ramp just backed in the water.
#10
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From: Miami, FL





