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Whats the Difference between Bravo drive couplers??

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Old 12-30-2008 | 11:33 PM
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Question Whats the Difference between Bravo drive couplers??

There telling me the ones with the long snout/hub is for bravos with drive shafts?


A guy at Mercury racing said the best bravo one coupler is the 861523A-20, they said this fits the 500efi,525, and the new 600hp,It has a different stronger composition of rubber that makes it stronger.I'm not real sure the Merc guy knew, he didn't even know the coupler basic part # off top of his headhe looked it up just like me.

I am wondering if the snout will mate up OK,all the picks on Mercury don't show which is which.

part #'s I founds on them
861523 A20 long steel hub
861523 A9 says short Aluminum hub, designing 1
861523 A7 long steel hub
861523 A5 496
861523 A18 short steal hub design 3
The one for a Bravo one is called for a plug in style.

Heres the 2 that are on mine now.

Thanks for any help
Rob


Pick below is the new one I bought last year, looks like a date code in the rubber 2004??? it spun
Attached Thumbnails Whats the Difference between Bravo drive couplers??-drive-coupler-11-08-024-large-.jpg   Whats the Difference between Bravo drive couplers??-drive-coupler-11-08-026-large-.jpg  
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Old 12-30-2008 | 11:37 PM
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This is the old one 2001,its still good.

The 2 are made different.
Attached Thumbnails Whats the Difference between Bravo drive couplers??-drive-coupler-11-08-028-large-.jpg   Whats the Difference between Bravo drive couplers??-drive-coupler-11-08-029-large-.jpg  
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Old 12-31-2008 | 12:58 AM
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I used one of the steel long snout ones a few years ago on my Pantera. I'm not sure what the part # was. It lined up and worked fine. I know it was listed a being used for diesel and work applications, so I figured it would handle torque better.
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Old 12-31-2008 | 01:29 AM
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Any of them will work. You can use the steel or alum. I prefer the alum. I have had the rubber fail in quite a few steel ones. The way it was explained to me was that the steel ones hold more heat and that heat will affect the rubber. The alum. ones will dissipate the heat much faster,thus keeping it from the rubber.
The steel one with the snout will work for a plug in.
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Old 12-31-2008 | 01:46 PM
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i do not know the diffrence between the two other than one has a long neck.i have used this coupler on a gen4 and 5 moters and had no problem.the coupler w/the neck on it was a little harder to pull the motor and clear everything,sterring bar ..etc,but no sweat.
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Old 01-04-2009 | 08:27 AM
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I put the one with the long snout on my 500efi and everything worked fine. Dont know the difference either, but the long snout came recommended
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Old 01-04-2009 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by hoghead
I put the one with the long snout on my 500efi and everything worked fine. Dont know the difference either, but the long snout came recommended

would that be part # 861523 A20 ???
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Old 01-04-2009 | 05:32 PM
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I don't know the part number, I had oso member bstub pick it up for me last winter - just know it had the long steel snout. Didn't know there was more than one like that.
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Old 04-18-2009 | 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by hoghead
I don't know the part number, I had oso member bstub pick it up for me last winter - just know it had the long steel snout. Didn't know there was more than one like that.

Did it make it hard to install the moter with it sticking out , also did make it harder to aline the engine??? I just bought the A20, they just went up again Jan 1

Thanks
Rob
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Old 04-19-2009 | 01:45 AM
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I switched to the long snout steel years ago after my std one had the splines looking 1/2 rolled out of it. The longer hub makes it much harder to get my engine into the boat as I have very little front clearence (I actually have to install my front crank pulley once motor is in the mounts)and it seems harder to align but more accurate once it is. You literally can't get the input shaft to go in if it isn't 99% perfect,you won't regret buying them though once it's in,Smitty
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