Converting open loop to close loop
#1
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Utica, Indiana
I have a old cigarette open loop cooling system that I am thinking about converting to a closed loop system. Has anyone converted there old engines over?
#2
Registered
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
I thought about doing this at one time... The problem as I understand it, is once the internals of the engine have been exposed to raw water cooling scale and rust develops. This rust and scale will quickly clog your new closed cooling system, particularly the heat exchanger.
#3
Registered

Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,848
Likes: 8
From: Jacksonville FL
post some pics of the cig, i think its my old mans old 33, white with a red stripe?
have you done any updates?
#4
What Zackman said. They do make some flushing stuff now but I have no idea how well it works. I guess it all depends on how often and well the motor were flushed after use.
__________________
Put your best foot forward!
Put your best foot forward!
#5
I converted raw water cooled 500HPs with aluminum heads to closed loop cooling for the motors. Works great. The blocks were 7 years old run in salt/brackish water when I did the conversion. Mostly homemade with heat exchangers from SeaKamp.
PM me and we can discuss if desired.
PM me and we can discuss if desired.
__________________
Long time cult member.
Long time cult member.
#6
Registered
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 350
Likes: 1
From: Connecticut
My 382 with 500HP's are the first RWC motors I have owned. I wanted to convert them to FWC but Jason @ Performance Marine at Lake George didn't see the point as long as you flush them out religiously. He has a lot more experience than I do so I have been going with his suggestion.
My experience with FWC cooleded motors is that it works great, is incredibly easy to winterize, and when the exchangers get clogged you remove two bolts and run a piece of wire through the tubes. No big deal. However I understand that that with more than 200 hours a combination of rust and antifreeze forms glop that clogs internal passages so is not recommended in used motors. That is backyard scuttlebutt and not something I have any proof of so take it for what its worth. But if someone has any expertise in the matter I would like to know the truth.
My experience with FWC cooleded motors is that it works great, is incredibly easy to winterize, and when the exchangers get clogged you remove two bolts and run a piece of wire through the tubes. No big deal. However I understand that that with more than 200 hours a combination of rust and antifreeze forms glop that clogs internal passages so is not recommended in used motors. That is backyard scuttlebutt and not something I have any proof of so take it for what its worth. But if someone has any expertise in the matter I would like to know the truth.




