I am in the process of installing new gimble bearings in my Bravo 1 Drives. I am having a very hard time driving them in. I have the proper Driver and head from merc but they keep on getting cocked a little and I am concerned about recking them.

The one I am working on now is cocked about 1/8". and about 1/3 the way in I keep on trying to push the driver in the right direction while pounding but it doesnt straignten out. I am using a 2 Lb hammer and it seems small I pound and pound but it goes very slowly. Do I need a big sledge hammer and just drive them in until square into the seat or will I ruin something? Am I going about it wrong? Is this something I should of not taken on? I need some pointers HELP.

2# hammer? Are you kidding? I would use at least 4 or 5# if not bigger, but with a short handle, called a "maul". It can be a bit tricky getting it started tho. Hold the driver as straight as possible. Check the bore of the housing to make sure you didn't bring up a burr. Also make sure the grease hole is lined up.

I agree with David. As long as it is reasonably straight, hit it like you're mad at it. It will go in, just be sure to stop when it bottoms out.

are you using a brass punch so as not to distort the insert? And a 2 # hammer should be more than enough.

If you have a brovo alignment tool use it to start the bearing then the install tool, It always starts great but sometimes get cocked I have used a long punch around the outter part of the bearing with little trouble and yes a bigger hammer is required

I just changed a gimbal bearing for the first time. This pounding it in seems wrong but it works. You have to hit it very hard. You need a bigger hammer and it will go much easier. I didn't have the installation tool so I made one out of galvanized pipe. I think someone should come out with a press to aid in installation. A threaded cap on the inside of the transom, something like a harmonic balancer puller to sandwich the bearing in. Would sure beat pounding on the bearing.
Dan

The short heavy hammer does the trick. The bearing has that corrugated ring on the OD, (called a tolerance ring ) which is hard to compress as it goes in. The key to preventing damage is to make sure that whatever you use to install it pushes the bearing on the OD of the bearing housing, not the inner race.

I ended up re-pulling them I could not get them to go in straight. Now I have a little groove / gouge in the each boss. Not much but I need to remove it with emery cloth or something before I start agian. I tried to straighten the misalignment out with a piece of oak but it would not budge. I dont have a brass punch But I may have one today, I brought in a LARGE sledge hammer I figured this time i would get it started very lightly make sure it is straight and then have a frend help me. One will hold the driver the other will give it one big whack. (not sure which one I want to do) Maybe this will start it in far enough and straight enough to continue seating. On one of the bearing assemblies the tolerence ring has sprung loose I need to make sure it is OK before going at it again.

Marc, I bought the tools from you so they should be correct !! If all else fails I will take it to the local merc dealer I just dont want to reck the transom assy in the process.

Thanks all for the feedbackl!!!

Hi Ray, also try a little grease on the ID of the housing.

you could put the bearing in your freezer until right before drive it in. it will shrink a little. Fran