CRT "cordless rotary wiring" help!
#1
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From: Jackson, Mississippi
Replaced my old three spoke steering wheel with up down buttons on each spoke with a new steering wheel. Drilled and installed the up/ down MOM (momentary) buttons on each steering wheel spoke. Thought I wired it back the way it came off (I marked all the wires with taped numbers). When I connect the CRT my trim pumps run constantly. I know there must be a wire crossed to the buttons. Pretty sure I have the three wires (blue,green, red) from my dash MOM button for both drives to the CRT wired correctly. Can some one tell me what the five wires coming out of the CRT to the buttons on the wheel are?
#2
If I recall correctly from mine, you only use 3 of the 5 wires. Up, (blue) Hot (red) Down (green) going from 10 yr memory here.
The CRT has the capabilty to operate up to 4 items, hence the 2 other wires, not used.
The CRT has the capabilty to operate up to 4 items, hence the 2 other wires, not used.
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Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
#3
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From: Jackson, Mississippi
Hmmmmm, will check on using only three wires. Boat it came out of had red to red(hot), green from dash MOM to yellow wire and blue wire going into CRT, blue from dash MOM to orange wire and black wire going into CRT. With two buttons on each spoke it's a little intimidating of a wiring job. Guess best bet is to start back at the dash MOM switch and test with a tester as I reassemble?Each MOM on the steering wheel have a hot going to it? I must have a down or up connected to a hot somewhere if the trim pump is constantly on?
Last edited by pitts1313; 03-01-2011 at 09:42 PM. Reason: Added question
#4
Sorry, was only considering the leads feeding the switches, not the leads on the unit base going down thru dash. I may be wrong on colors, as said, been a few yrs. SO you have 1 wire from dash spliced to 2 wires going into CRT unit, twice? Just have to use a meter to see which wire on the top half of the CRT corresponds to which wire coming out of the base of the unit and going the the dash. Are you adding this your boat, or just reinstalling? Got to account for the diodes if adding. Did this come out if a single engine boat and you are installing in a twin?
Mine had 2 sets of wire strain reliefs on the upper rotating 1/2. 1 had the wires cut flush, the other was used for the the switches.
Mine had 2 sets of wire strain reliefs on the upper rotating 1/2. 1 had the wires cut flush, the other was used for the the switches.
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 03-01-2011 at 10:23 PM.
#5
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From: Jackson, Mississippi
Came out of my new to me boat. Trying to complete a whole new dash panel install, gauges, chartplotter, and CRT. The wires from the dash mom ARE each spliced to two pairs of wires going into the CRT HUB. Then two sets of three wires emerge opposing one another to go to the mom buttons on the steering. I did use new MOM buttons on steering wheel. But the CRT was already installed. Can you tell me about the diodes, why I might need them? Will post what I try tomorrow. It is a twin engine.
#6
Not familiar with the CRT thing, but it sounds like your MOM (momentary) switches are NC (normally closed). Do the pumps stop running when you press the momentary switches? Sounds like you would need NO (normally open) momentary buttons, so when you press them it would complete the circuit and run the pumps (if that is what you are trying to do with them)...
#7
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From: Jackson, Mississippi
I will check to see if MOMs are open, pretty sure that was what I ordered. Doesn't mean that's what I got. With the pumps whirling and the drives maxed out and me not wanting to burn a pump, I think I did try pushing buttons and nothing. I appreciate the suggestions of what to check.
#8
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From: Jackson, Mississippi
US1 and C Deezy, thanks for the tips. They kept me working thru the problem. Dissassembled and found two shorts to correct the problem.
Last edited by pitts1313; 03-02-2011 at 09:45 AM. Reason: spelling




