over heating issue and need help....my first poker run this weekend!!!
#1
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 907
Likes: 4
From: Baton Rouge, La
I bought a baja 235 force a few weeks ago with out a motor. I had a 468 bbc built with the addition to a better cam and high rise intake manifold. I had no accessories for the motor so I pieced everything togethor buying just about everything new execpt a used cirulating water pump for the front of the block, but it looks brand new!! The sea water pump is the old two piece plastic style (used) that I put a new impellar in. The problem I'm having is that at speed (2000-5000 rpm's) it will start to climb in temp to the point I have to pull back to idle because of power loss and not wanting to cook the brand new motor!! At idle and low speeds (off plane) the exhaust has a steady amount of water coming out and will not over heat. Once under way and on plane the boat will stay cool for about 3 miles and then it will increase temp pretty fast.
Where should I look for my heat problem? I have my first poker run every this weekend and have been working everyday after work for a month to have the boat running. Just got it running this past week and have been on the water trying to avoid the heat issue and get the motor broke in.
Thanks for any help you guys can offer!
Where should I look for my heat problem? I have my first poker run every this weekend and have been working everyday after work for a month to have the boat running. Just got it running this past week and have been on the water trying to avoid the heat issue and get the motor broke in.
Thanks for any help you guys can offer!
#3
Registered
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,194
Likes: 5
From: hampstead nh
if it has bravo drive ck the hose coming thru the drive housing .remove the plastic housing on the inside of boat that the feed hose connects too .ill almost bet its getting pinched off w corrosion . most bravos do it
#4
Registered

Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,064
Likes: 1,172
From: Murrayville Georgia
how high is the X deminsion? if the drive only has the side inlets and the drive is high the top holes will suck in air when the boat is on plane. as was stated check the hose in the gimble as they tend to collapse but also look at the drive height.
#5
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 907
Likes: 4
From: Baton Rouge, La
Thanks for the replys!!
I had the outdrive off when I installed the motor and I don't remember a plastic cover? Pulling the outdrive is easy so I can pull it off again to check the plastic housing. Unless the housing your talking about is on the inside of the boat. The feed line that goes to the sea pump does connect to the transom assembly, but I didn't take it off from the inside. I saw how big the hose was and assumed the line couldn't be clogged. Can I get to the housing with motor in?
As for the hose routing. I'm pretty sure I've got it right. I refrenced the manual many times in trying to get the hoses right. The exit port I used on the sea pump is the left hand out (closest port to the two mounting bolts that are close togethor). I'm using the right hand out port for the inlet side of the pump. They both say outlet so that was confusing. I ended up calling a local shop and trying to find the info online.
I'm not sure on the x dim. as the lower unit is the stock bravo 1 lower unit.
Keep the ideas coming and thanks for the ideas!!
I had the outdrive off when I installed the motor and I don't remember a plastic cover? Pulling the outdrive is easy so I can pull it off again to check the plastic housing. Unless the housing your talking about is on the inside of the boat. The feed line that goes to the sea pump does connect to the transom assembly, but I didn't take it off from the inside. I saw how big the hose was and assumed the line couldn't be clogged. Can I get to the housing with motor in?
As for the hose routing. I'm pretty sure I've got it right. I refrenced the manual many times in trying to get the hoses right. The exit port I used on the sea pump is the left hand out (closest port to the two mounting bolts that are close togethor). I'm using the right hand out port for the inlet side of the pump. They both say outlet so that was confusing. I ended up calling a local shop and trying to find the info online.
I'm not sure on the x dim. as the lower unit is the stock bravo 1 lower unit.
Keep the ideas coming and thanks for the ideas!!
#6
Thanks for the replys!!
I had the outdrive off when I installed the motor and I don't remember a plastic cover? Pulling the outdrive is easy so I can pull it off again to check the plastic housing. Unless the housing your talking about is on the inside of the boat. The feed line that goes to the sea pump does connect to the transom assembly, but I didn't take it off from the inside. I saw how big the hose was and assumed the line couldn't be clogged. Can I get to the housing with motor in?
As for the hose routing. I'm pretty sure I've got it right. I refrenced the manual many times in trying to get the hoses right. The exit port I used on the sea pump is the left hand out (closest port to the two mounting bolts that are close togethor). I'm using the right hand out port for the inlet side of the pump. They both say outlet so that was confusing. I ended up calling a local shop and trying to find the info online.
I'm not sure on the x dim. as the lower unit is the stock bravo 1 lower unit.
Keep the ideas coming and thanks for the ideas!!
I had the outdrive off when I installed the motor and I don't remember a plastic cover? Pulling the outdrive is easy so I can pull it off again to check the plastic housing. Unless the housing your talking about is on the inside of the boat. The feed line that goes to the sea pump does connect to the transom assembly, but I didn't take it off from the inside. I saw how big the hose was and assumed the line couldn't be clogged. Can I get to the housing with motor in?
As for the hose routing. I'm pretty sure I've got it right. I refrenced the manual many times in trying to get the hoses right. The exit port I used on the sea pump is the left hand out (closest port to the two mounting bolts that are close togethor). I'm using the right hand out port for the inlet side of the pump. They both say outlet so that was confusing. I ended up calling a local shop and trying to find the info online.
I'm not sure on the x dim. as the lower unit is the stock bravo 1 lower unit.
Keep the ideas coming and thanks for the ideas!!
Anthony
#7
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 907
Likes: 4
From: Baton Rouge, La
I will check that Anthony. Now that you mention it I do remember seeing that plastic retainer that slides in the hose to hold it in place. I do remember seeing it folded inwards a little into the path of water flow, but didn't think much of it. I will try and find one locally and replace it along with checking behind the plastic housing that others mentioned.
thanks everyone!!!
thanks everyone!!!
#8
Why did you decide to keep the circulating pump and not install a simple crossover? One more thing for the engine to drive, one more thing to fail and ruin your boating day. Unless you have a closed cooling system? Also may I suggest a thru hull water pick up, strainer and forget the drive pick up for cooling the engine.
#9
Registered

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8,439
Likes: 93
From: yorkville,il
u said u baught the circulating pump used,are u sure it is a clockwise rotatiom pump? many are ccw for automotive use.the sea pump would push water past it at low rpm,after about 2500 rpm it would greatly impede waterflow.
#10
Another good reason to get rid of it, just sayin.


