Well Im posting some pics of my turbine housing and a customers that I am attempting to water cool.... Ive heard of it being done but have never attempted it myself and unfortunately a Stainless Turbine housing isnt available for the turbo I currently use...Ill keep everyone posted on actuall real time use and durability....

Thanks,
Brendan
PSIRacing

Cummins ?

Won't you loose boost by over cooling?

+1 How does a cold housing effect the efficiency of the turbine? Will you have to change trim, etc.?

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John jr

Not to be throwing stones but you appear to have welded sheet stainless to a casting? If it's not stainless or this is closed cooling then this does not apply as I wrote it.

The welds in the stainless are most likely going to be prone to cracking because they can't take the rapid thermal expansion and contraction (stainless is brittle). You had the boat in Key West so you run in saltwater, the salt will boil out in there quickly and insulate the turbo which is both good and bad. Good it will help keep heat in the turbo but bad it will make the risk of cracking worse. Remember if not closed cooling the boiling point of water remains at 212 deg lower than that of a closed loop.

I don't have to tell you, your exhaust temps (before the turbine side of the turbo) are very high compared to a N/A engine. That's why you don't see raw water cooled turbos unless it's a water jacketed casting or a water jacketed cover around them.

If anyone remembers the Merlin diesels, converted Brazil Ford diesels they made stainless water jacketed manifolds and they were very prone to cracking. You're running exhaust temps in the manifolds above 1,000 deg underload and schocking the rolled vs cast welded together metals with constant blasts of 70 deg water which is hard on the metals. Remember the turbo glows red and you're throwing cold airrated water on it.

I wish you no bad luck but be prepared and keep your eyes open.

The cooling affect of the turbo itself is not a big worry, you might find you need the resize the turbine wheel but the hot exhaust gas is already expaned before it hits the turbo so you won't cool it don't and contract it much unless that is some super heat sink.

Hey Guys...I definitely appreciate the comments as I myself have never tried it.....as in my hole project boat, there have been many opinions that have been very true and many false... Basically what I do know is I have many good test results with out the turbine housing being cooled, what effect is it gonna have negatively on how the turbo actually reacts has yet to be seen.... Also I totally understand that it seems that the turbine housing is prone to cracking due to the different expansion of the 2 materials, but technically speaking if its cooled enough it kind of seems that the tempuratures will never reach those extremes due to the cooling.... Im excited to see what happens with 100% real life results and post exactly what my experiences will be and most definitely plan on keeping a good eye on it from the 1st second water hits it....worst case scenarion is the housing will be ruined but I will gain a ton of feedback from it.... I know in the jet ski'ing world it is being done all the time with raw water cooling but I cant comment on results becouse Ive never done myself....

Thanks,
Brendan

I believe that many diesels use a 3-wall casting, with an air gap between the hot gas housing and the water jacket.

Very open minded and willing to try , nothing ventured nothing gained , good luck, you have already ventured out of the norm and look where you have gotten .

I think you should be fine as long as you arent shooting cold water onto a red hot surface. if you have it going and remaining at a constant temp you in theory should be fine. what diff would it make if you are cooling the exhaust, with a cooler housing you are also cooling the intake charge.