200 hour 2001 500efi Tune Up?
#1
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Alberta, Canada
Hi there, I bought a 2001 29 fever last year with 180 hours on her 500 efi, stock. I am wanting the opinions of you fine people as to what I should be doing for preventative maintenance on this engine. I know the basic water impeller, filters and oil stuff, but do you recommend anything else to make this blue monster last longer. I have run her up to 72mph and have seen no signs of abuse showing ( ya I know it's impossible to tell) but the boat was babied by its previous owner in Lake Tahoe and I expect to be treating her the same way. Thanks for any replies, this winter is lasting a long time here in Canada and want to start planning now.
#2
Registered

Joined: May 2011
Posts: 3,313
Likes: 24
From: medina ohio/ vermilion ohio
im at 340 ish and am going throw a big mess with my 2. full top end on one and full rebuild on the other i had a roller lifter blow a part on me. so i would start looking in to top ends in the next 50 to 100 hours and if you just got it last year i would do a compression test and leak down to see where your numbers are at before another session running it if u didnt have it done when u bought it.
#3
Some other things you may want to inspect if you are pulling the engine are:
All of the fuel and water hoses/lines
Distributer
Starter
Bilge pumps
Fuel pump
Check the drives and gimbals
I had a full rebuild done on my 2 502s based off my leak down and compression tests so I got all new gaskets; I have already replaced the impellers with the stainless "lifetime" model pumps; new/upgraded fuel pumps; new cap and rotor. I am getting 2 new distributors for mine, my ditributors had a fair amount of corrosion; new plugs and wires; check your starters/replace/rebuild; Have your injectors cleaned/tested.
It all depends on how much cash you want to put into it.
I figured while it was out I would inspect and replace any parts that are prone to wear/failure.
All of the fuel and water hoses/lines
Distributer
Starter
Bilge pumps
Fuel pump
Check the drives and gimbals
I had a full rebuild done on my 2 502s based off my leak down and compression tests so I got all new gaskets; I have already replaced the impellers with the stainless "lifetime" model pumps; new/upgraded fuel pumps; new cap and rotor. I am getting 2 new distributors for mine, my ditributors had a fair amount of corrosion; new plugs and wires; check your starters/replace/rebuild; Have your injectors cleaned/tested.
It all depends on how much cash you want to put into it.
I figured while it was out I would inspect and replace any parts that are prone to wear/failure.
#5
Registered
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 368
Likes: 2
From: Ottawa, ON
Youre getting close to needing valve springs (250ish). I dont know if would pull the motor just yet, you can do that in the boat.
Have the CMIs checked out (I assume you have them since its a 500 efi). Some of them are prone to leaks.
Besides that do the obvious: compression check, filters, spark plugs, check the condition of lines.
Also keep in mind: If its not broken dont fix it.
Have the CMIs checked out (I assume you have them since its a 500 efi). Some of them are prone to leaks.
Besides that do the obvious: compression check, filters, spark plugs, check the condition of lines.
Also keep in mind: If its not broken dont fix it.
#6
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Alberta, Canada
Thanks gents, I did do a compression test before purchase, dont remember the numbers but they were the same across the board so that was a great thing. The motor is showing no signs of compression issues, lots of oil pressure also, so not going to tear it apart yet. Hoping it has a few more hours of trouble free fun. Other than a few test runs, it hardly gets above 3500 rpm while cruising the lake. Thanks for the replies. good luck in your rebuild 1989mach1.
#8
There is a fuel filter behind the plenum just before the fuel rail, change it unless you've done it recently. Also if you don't know when it was done I would pull the injectors and have them flowed and cleaned. We are starting to see alot of them gummed up from ethanol. If they clog or stick it can be bad. You can get new injector seals cheap from NAPA and don't need to change the upper plenum seals unless you booger them up, so you can have the injectors cleaned, flowed, and resealed for less than $300.
#9




