As always, many brains are better than one. I am currently getting ready to install my deck hatch on the Scout. It will have a flush hatch similar to a Cig Top Gun. I want to install gas shocks and a locking mechanisim. on the bottom side. The latch mechinism I currently have is

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...Keyword=257014

I am trying to come up with a push/pull cable system that I can hook up to the latch mechanism that will let it open the hatch. I plan to instll the gas shocks so that they are not full contracted. That way when the latch is realeased the hatch will automaticaly open up. Any ideas on a cable?

I found this online but am not hip to the corrosive materials. I am thining of using a 33c cable but need to identify a handle to attatch to the threaded portion.............

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rn...FfNxMgodugcAmg

Thanks in advance!
Jr.

Just curious, why do you want to be able to open or close the hatch via cable? Because it's a hassle to get down there to do it manually?

Even a lightweight hatch is going to need quite a bit of leverage to open with the limited travel you'll have with a push/pull cable, unless you are only wanting to open it a couple of inches, not all of the way.

Personally I would look into a small linear actuator. I think the smaller ones you can get for around 100 bucks or so. But you will lose a couple of inches of head clearance in the cuddy which is already pretty small as it is.

C,
Thanks for the response, It is kind of a difficult question to follow. The reason to open the hatch by by a cable is due to the cockpit configuration. It will be almost impossible to get in there and do it by hand... I want the cable to unlatch the mechanism and the gas shocks to do the work to open it...........

why not use air acuators and a mini compressor with regulated air to open and shut..

A simple cable actuated latch should be easy. you can drill & tap the perko latch to accept the cable easy enough, modify the end of the cable assy by cutting away what you don't need & retapping the cable end assemble with a spring so the latch bolt springs out to lock when released. On the cockpit end a simple hidden mount bracket for the cable & a handle to pull. You shouldn't need any more than an inch of movement & shouldn't cost but a few bucks for materials and a little time with hand tools. Randy

i don't like it. if latch pops while doing 50 or better, hatch fails the float test...well, if the cushions are attached good, they will act as pfd's for the hatch as long as you get back to it quick.

And you will close it by manually pushing on the hatch from the deck?

If this is true then you will need a spring loaded detent attached to the end of the cable so you can close the hatch and have the latch automatically engage.

What's the stroke on the gas pistons? What about a 12v linear actuator? You can then open and lose the hatch from the dash!

Ok, I see, I didn't recall how much actual room was in the cuddy. So you just want to work the latch, not the entire hatch. Assuming the hatch will be hinged toward the front, I still think a linear actuator would be the ticket. You could crack it open a few inches while running, and it should pull air out and through the hatch and floor of the cockpit, cool your legs off.

See post #2.

What about a regular car hood latch? Figure out how to spring load it, and would have a cable with it.