Can anyone tell, is this bad from the photos? Boat has been used in saltwater but stored in dry storage, rinsed (supposedly) each time it's stored.

Thanks!

JR

Doesn't look too terrible, I would be more concerned about what everthing else looks like from the looks of those washers on either side of your exhaust. If those look that bad, what does everything else look like that got "sprayed off".

Thanks for the response, this is actually a boat I've been looking at. The engine compartment looks pretty good and the top of the boat, seats, grab handles and all that look to be in good shape. I'm just not too familiar with what to look for on the boats that have been in saltwater or if I should just avoid them if possible.

Photo of engine and compartment

The washers are either really crappy 304 stainless or some type of steel. Not a real concern.

If it was me, I'd pull the drains on the bottom of the engine block to make sure it still drains. If the boat sat for a prolong time with salt water in it, larger chucks of iron will collect (especially in the risers) and could potentially build up / restrict flow. As long as when you pull the plug and can clear any obstruction (sand small rust chunks) at the drain, water should flow out naturally.

Looks like someone used galvanized washers when the swim platform was installed

I would be more worried if any water intrusion took place thru the inner transom area causing any rotted wood. No offense depending on who manu the boat as I know its a production boat especially with a 5.0 single engine app.as some of those builders really skimp on the building process. Depending on year and manu, some production builders went with all composite construction.

Look for water leak stains that ran down the whole INNER transom area. That will tell you water intrusion took place over time hence possible rotted wood. I strongly suggest you have a good certified marine shop who does full service especially if they do fiberglass work on top of to do a full check out of the boat.

Most people would recommend a boat surveyor but IMO they really are not that qualified on the mechanical side of the coin ie: engine & outdrive & transmission side. I have never ever seen any marine surveyors sitting in any OEM factory marine engines classes (NEVER).

Also I have never seen a marine surveyors have OEM diagnostic equipment or perform any testing with ie: CDS, DDT,SPX. OTC, Vodia, Stats, MEDS, Diacom, leakdown testers, vacuum gauge, inline spark testers and so on and so on. It would be very wise to get the motor scanned plus this will tell you true running hours and in what rpm ranges across the board.

If this boat is in your state and has water in block I would be worried because everything over here is still winterized. Get 100% proof for a proper winterization and still winterized. Cold damn winter all over this country.

BUP thanks for all the info, good stuff! I'm definitely going to have a marine mechanic go over everything and hopefully a fiberglass guy take a peek too! Now if they de winterize it to let me drive the boat, should I have it re-winterized until I know for sure the weather is warming up? Our weather here in Ga has been quite cold this winter, and I know we will still have a few more cold snaps before spring truly sets in.

man if I only knew what the weather would be like weeks and months ahead of time and if the weather is going to crack your block, I surely wouldn't be up here wasting my time and jacking with boats. Anyways I think I would have it 100 % properly winterized again if you run the motor in the mean time just to be on the safe side of things. Also get it in writing and dated that it was winterized and what was performed because if anything was to happen that something was missed, you have a leg to stand on against the marine business who should have done the winterization and or properly.