Mirrored acrylic for engine hatch
#1
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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 216
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From: Chesapeake City, Md
Need some advise. Was planning on installing mirrored acrylic on the under side of the hatch (did I need to point that out/ to funny) and was not sure as to the best thickness to use and best way to attach. Liquid nails, 5200, silicone?
P.S. Motor will be back from machine shop next Tuesday with no issues from the bottom end (did a quick pull and inspect). Had a few intake guides on my 7/8 cyl that were a bit sloppy.
Explains the low compression on the cyl's. Were down to 90, all others were at 155 to 175.
Thanks, Don
P.S. Motor will be back from machine shop next Tuesday with no issues from the bottom end (did a quick pull and inspect). Had a few intake guides on my 7/8 cyl that were a bit sloppy.
Explains the low compression on the cyl's. Were down to 90, all others were at 155 to 175.
Thanks, Don
#6
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 23
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I've cut and drilled mirrored acrylic without incident. You do have to go very slow though. I cut to size with a jigsaw using a fine blade (maybe 22 teeth per inch) and don't let the blade get hot. Same with a drill bit - don't let it get hot and let the tool do the work - very low pressure. Look at 3M VHB tape for adhesion. That stuff is crazy strong when you get the right formula. It comes in multiple thicknesses with different adhesive, depending on surfaces to be stuck together. If you choose screws to hold it in place, definitely I'd use rubber washers on both sides of the acrylic to shield it from vibration and cracking. You might be better off getting mirrored stainless instead of acrylic. It's more money, but probably a lot more sturdy. Heat in the engine room will probably make acrylic more brittle over time.
#7
Mirrored stainless is a PITA!! imo I have it on the underside of my Eliminator hatch & it scratches if you breathe on it too close & gluing it on back then really sucked trying to get it flat so the reflection wasn't all wavy. I have already taken it back off. Randy





