Removing Corsa Mufflers Need Help Removing or Gut Them?
#1
Our boat is at Marine Tech Concepts getting the 250 hr top end refresh done to the 525 EFIs. "While your in there" I was going to have Jeff remove the factory installed Corsa 12650 mufflers and replace with 4" straight cut tips with internal rubber flapper. MTC relayed to me the mufflers were installed with an extreme bonding material, 5200 I believe he said? The muffler they tried to remove would not budge at all and the tech is warning there might be gel coat damage if going any further. Have any of you experienced this disassembly issue? Is this a Formula related problem or related to other brands? If the mufflers cannot be removed has anyone ventured in cutting out the core? Any help or information is really appreciated!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]521748[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]521749[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]521750[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]521748[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]521749[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]521750[/ATTACH]
#2
Registered
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,640
Likes: 4
Well, I'm here to tell you that I just used regular marine grade silicon on my tips, and it still took hunks of the gel coat off when I removed them. Not an uncommon problem, I'm afraid. Maybe talk to someone in the window glass business to see if there is some kind of cutting tool you could work in there between the tip and the hull to cut through the silicon. At the very least, try to scribe around the outside of the tip so that if any gel comes off, it will be limited to the portion under the tip that will hopefully be hidden by the replacements.
I have a set of those tips, and it is my understanding that gutting them is a lot more involved than just removing the bolts and screws for the baffles. Those things are welded together, and everything is stainless steel, meaning that it has a tendency to case harden on you when you grind or cut on it with most tools. Probably not an easy deal to do when installed. I would do a search on the forums - many people have gutted these things, might find some good suggestions on the best way.
Not sure exactly how restrictive they are. Buddy of mine has them on a boat that was running a ProCharged HP500, and he was running in the 80's with it. Never ran it without them to compare. Another friend had a slightly smaller set behind an HP465, and put the angled tips with no muffler because he wanted it louder. No speed gain, just more noise. Just FYI.
I have a set of those tips, and it is my understanding that gutting them is a lot more involved than just removing the bolts and screws for the baffles. Those things are welded together, and everything is stainless steel, meaning that it has a tendency to case harden on you when you grind or cut on it with most tools. Probably not an easy deal to do when installed. I would do a search on the forums - many people have gutted these things, might find some good suggestions on the best way.
Not sure exactly how restrictive they are. Buddy of mine has them on a boat that was running a ProCharged HP500, and he was running in the 80's with it. Never ran it without them to compare. Another friend had a slightly smaller set behind an HP465, and put the angled tips with no muffler because he wanted it louder. No speed gain, just more noise. Just FYI.
#3
Well, I'm here to tell you that I just used regular marine grade silicon on my tips, and it still took hunks of the gel coat off when I removed them. Not an uncommon problem, I'm afraid. Maybe talk to someone in the window glass business to see if there is some kind of cutting tool you could work in there between the tip and the hull to cut through the silicon. At the very least, try to scribe around the outside of the tip so that if any gel comes off, it will be limited to the portion under the tip that will hopefully be hidden by the replacements.
I have a set of those tips, and it is my understanding that gutting them is a lot more involved than just removing the bolts and screws for the baffles. Those things are welded together, and everything is stainless steel, meaning that it has a tendency to case harden on you when you grind or cut on it with most tools. Probably not an easy deal to do when installed. I would do a search on the forums - many people have gutted these things, might find some good suggestions on the best way.
Not sure exactly how restrictive they are. Buddy of mine has them on a boat that was running a ProCharged HP500, and he was running in the 80's with it. Never ran it without them to compare. Another friend had a slightly smaller set behind an HP465, and put the angled tips with no muffler because he wanted it louder. No speed gain, just more noise. Just FYI.
I have a set of those tips, and it is my understanding that gutting them is a lot more involved than just removing the bolts and screws for the baffles. Those things are welded together, and everything is stainless steel, meaning that it has a tendency to case harden on you when you grind or cut on it with most tools. Probably not an easy deal to do when installed. I would do a search on the forums - many people have gutted these things, might find some good suggestions on the best way.
Not sure exactly how restrictive they are. Buddy of mine has them on a boat that was running a ProCharged HP500, and he was running in the 80's with it. Never ran it without them to compare. Another friend had a slightly smaller set behind an HP465, and put the angled tips with no muffler because he wanted it louder. No speed gain, just more noise. Just FYI.
#4
Registered
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 387
Likes: 1
From: Tampa, FL
I gutted mine and it was a *****.... Used a die grinder to remove the welded areas but it went pretty quick. The round piece had to be folded in half to be removed and then the coiled sound suppressor "snake" is last to come out........ If you like it loud then you will be happy! My 502 with high compression and high lift cam and 496 exhaust starts up with a very angry snarl! With a Load on It and rpm, s up around 3,500 it sounds like I have twin big blocks out back! It roars and sure sounds like a big boy offshore machine!
#5
I gutted mine and it was a *****.... Used a die grinder to remove the welded areas but it went pretty quick. The round piece had to be folded in half to be removed and then the coiled sound suppressor "snake" is last to come out........ If you like it loud then you will be happy! My 502 with high compression and high lift cam and 496 exhaust starts up with a very angry snarl! With a Load on It and rpm, s up around 3,500 it sounds like I have twin big blocks out back! It roars and sure sounds like a big boy offshore machine!
#6
Registered
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 744
Likes: 1
From: MCHENRY IL
You need to heat the inside of the pipe up from the engine side with just a propane torch. Mine wouldn't budge until About 15 seconds heating the inner pipe they slid right out.
That would be to remove the tip from the hull.
That would be to remove the tip from the hull.
#7
Wrap a ratchet strap around them, hook both ends to the trailer, and slowly crank down on the strap. This will put enough pressure on the tip to pull them away from the hull. You will here it when they start to break free. Just go SLOW.
#10
Thought of this one, like taking a windshield out of a car. The issues are this 5200 is much more than a standard silicone and the way the 3 mounting studs are triangulated , if you could get behind there you run into the studs quickly.




