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Have any of you seen this before?

The center post/ coil wire post is bad on both of these caps, one broke off and the other is worn and the spring
is broken and post is pushed up into the cap. So both were not making contact to the rotor button,I assume they were arching between the two post.

The one thats broke off is 1 1/2 years old, it was missing like water in the fuel/kinda blubbering and hiccuping some

The one with just the broke spring just hiccuped once. new 6-2013, prob 20 hours

I've never had this happen with the merc,ac delco,napa caps

Normal MSD suggest grounds

Thanks for any help

one pick is one a new cap

Rob

i convert to the big cap,,when the carbon wares down the spark distroys the center of the cap..the conversion kit has a ss spring steel center on the rotor and the carbon center on the cap is bigger and solid mounted so the spark dont have to go through the spring to the coil wire..here is what it looks like,,call msd to see if this kit will fit your dist..every one i do gets this kit and that cap goes with the customer...i wont use that cap on a boat anymore..plus side their is also a bigger spread between cylinders so their is a less chance for it to cross fire under the cap..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-MSD-8445...ebae66&vxp=mtr

Thanks for the response,msd only makes that kit that will fit their dist, I got gm/merc dist.

I called msd and they said the cause is the rotor button is not contacting the dist cap center post that I need to bend the rotor button center tab up just a little so it will contact, that the gap is causing it to ark between them and eat up the center post, makes since, but I'm not sold on the idea,

Guess I need to mock it up with gum or some height mic's and ck it.

Rob

Also the inside of the cap is faded to a light orange color, Cooking it?

yea they told me the same crap,,so i did what they told me to do and same crap..i think the center carbon button is too small for what we are doing..i drilled a hole in a new cap and the carbon was about 1/2 way pushed in so ???i like the big cap now and no worries.

and btw,,try sanding the rotor smoother on the center where the pin touch's..they are usually rough and i think over time thats what wares them doen and then that when the head starts and discolors the rotor and cap in that area..

Strip, before really going fruitloops on this grab an Accell/Cap rotor. I have used these since the external coil GM HEI distributor has been out. No problems. I used them for years on my 502 MPI, MPI Procharged, and a friends 502 carbed...and another friends 502MPi, and countless trucks...and....lol.... Several of those 502's used the Crane HI-6M box, therefore they saw lenty of energy thru them.

I have not used the MSD cap/rotor on these distrib's, so I can't say annything about them.

But again, I'll totally vouch for the Accell's.

If you burn thru those, you have too much energy going thru the system. Too wide gaps ? Motor demands too high ? Wires too much resistance ? Something........

Edit in: I used the Accell over MSD more for the reason of they work and are available on the shelf of local regular parts stores. I would have to order and wait for the MSD's.

How many hours is that??? My stock Merc ones were in better shape with over 300hrs.
The Sierra ones are even better than the Merc stuff and have brass terminals and only cost about $30 for cap and rotor.

EST dist right ? I run accell's that have brass contacts in my gibson, been on there for years...

Had that happen on mine multiple times. Caused all sorts of carbon tracking and poor running. Wife wasn't very happy. I was told to drill holes in the cap to reduced the ionized air (which is supposedly the cause). I'm switching to an Accel dual sync Dist this year for the EFI conversion, so I never really fixed it.