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27PC Transom Repair

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Old 10-24-2014 | 04:07 PM
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Default 27PC Transom Repair

After discussing the repowering of my boat and transom work I was reminded that it would be better if I posted the transom work here for more input. The start of the work came in at page 5 post 47
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/d...g-brick-5.html

Started with a hole starting to crumble


This is where I am now


Still digging to find where the rot stops. Here are a couple pics taken today for size


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Old 10-25-2014 | 01:31 PM
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Spent some hours doing some demolition and I have found the top of the rot. It is a bit below my last cut. The black seen is adhesive because I cannot get the wood off with a chisel, going to need to sand it off. Dug into both sides and the rot goes back in behind the stringers. As before the stringers are separately glassed in and should be good. Looking into options from here. I'm thinking I should cut thru the glass next to the stringers and try to keep the blade away from the wood inside. Even if I do cut into it I can add more glass when rebuilding. Probably cut into the boxed in areas on each side to the other side of the main stringers to gain access.





Thoughts ?
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Old 10-25-2014 | 04:46 PM
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What a lot of work, I'm beat. Cut out the one side and tapper cut the top of the stringer off. Under the boxed section there was a bit of damp plywood. After digging all the foam out that was the only thing damp, everything else is glass coated. Will do some more digging tomorrow.



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Old 10-25-2014 | 11:10 PM
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looks like tight access with that deck configuration. your on the right track, nip away at it till its all out. dont be afraid to improve on things as you go along, Formula had some odd build techniques that sometimes caused more harm then good.
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Old 10-26-2014 | 06:04 AM
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Looks like some of the work that I had to do on my 330SS . . . working around wiring and plumbing and such. Makes things more challenging and difficult to clean up at the end.

Looks like you will be able to do a partial replacement with good results. Got any moisture meter readings from the wood in the outer areas?
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Old 10-26-2014 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by glassdave
looks like tight access with that deck configuration. your on the right track, nip away at it till its all out. dont be afraid to improve on things as you go along, Formula had some odd build techniques that sometimes caused more harm then good.
After getting further into this I'm pretty certain that I caused most of my problems by adding the extra anodes. Those two holes where not sealed correctly and with the one transom plate bolt only made it worst. This boat is built pretty solid, anything that does not have rot is a bear to cut through and get out. My multitool is not doing a whole lot, but it helps. Think I'll look into another head with some find of saw on it.

Originally Posted by tpenfield
Looks like some of the work that I had to do on my 330SS . . . working around wiring and plumbing and such. Makes things more challenging and difficult to clean up at the end.

Looks like you will be able to do a partial replacement with good results. Got any moisture meter readings from the wood in the outer areas?
Still have not received my moisture meter, need to go check and make sure I did order one.
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Old 10-26-2014 | 06:53 PM
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Like dave says, with the time spent in properly glassing in a partial repair, you are much better off to just rip the entire transom out. Been there, done it and couldn't agree more. Regardless it will be better than what was originally there.
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Old 10-26-2014 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Borgie
Like dave says, with the time spent in properly glassing in a partial repair, you are much better off to just rip the entire transom out. Been there, done it and couldn't agree more. Regardless it will be better than what was originally there.
That isn't my take away from what Dave said. If this isn't what is being said please explain
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Old 10-26-2014 | 08:19 PM
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Well I won't speak for him, however his advice is 99% of the time remove the entire transom. You really never know how far the rot has travelled too. A partial repair will never be as strong as a properly installed full transom replacement. Notice he says "nip away at it until it's all gone". To me that sounds like, remove the entire inner transom and start over. I could be wrong, so hopefully he chimes in.

I did this a few months back along with stringers. Daves advice was priceless. Can't thank him enough. With the modern products such as corebond, Biax and new resins, if done properly the end result will be so overbuilt it will outlast you easily. I considered a partial repair before deciding to take Glassdaves advice. Glad I did. Here's the thread.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/f...s-partial.html

Last edited by Borgie; 10-27-2014 at 12:12 AM.
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Old 10-27-2014 | 08:35 PM
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If I were you, I would replace the entire transom,cut the stringers out at a 45 Degree angle so you can get the new transom in, I am 3/4 the way thru doing this to my 27' Magnum Sedan with the help of GlassDave (Thanks again man!) This way you KNOW there is no rot left. DO it once, and do it right. There is not going to be a great cost difference doing a full Vs a partial, but the piece of mind knowing it is put together better than the factory did it is comforting, especially since you are upping the power. Have you considered raising your "X" while you are at it? Also As per Dave's recommendation, get some Corebond to laminate the transom to the Hull and do all your fillets with, its super easy to work with, even I was able to do it, and it looks professional.

Here are my threads:
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/f...e-pics-me.html

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/m...ead-intro.html
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