27PC Transom Repair
#1
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From: KY
After discussing the repowering of my boat and transom work I was reminded that it would be better if I posted the transom work here for more input. The start of the work came in at page 5 post 47
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/d...g-brick-5.html
Started with a hole starting to crumble

This is where I am now

Still digging to find where the rot stops. Here are a couple pics taken today for size

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/d...g-brick-5.html
Started with a hole starting to crumble

This is where I am now

Still digging to find where the rot stops. Here are a couple pics taken today for size

#2
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From: KY
Spent some hours doing some demolition and I have found the top of the rot. It is a bit below my last cut. The black seen is adhesive because I cannot get the wood off with a chisel, going to need to sand it off. Dug into both sides and the rot goes back in behind the stringers. As before the stringers are separately glassed in and should be good. Looking into options from here. I'm thinking I should cut thru the glass next to the stringers and try to keep the blade away from the wood inside. Even if I do cut into it I can add more glass when rebuilding. Probably cut into the boxed in areas on each side to the other side of the main stringers to gain access.


Thoughts ?


Thoughts ?
#3
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From: KY
#4
looks like tight access with that deck configuration. your on the right track, nip away at it till its all out. dont be afraid to improve on things as you go along, Formula had some odd build techniques that sometimes caused more harm then good.
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Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#5
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From: Cape Cod, MA
Looks like some of the work that I had to do on my 330SS . . . working around wiring and plumbing and such. Makes things more challenging and difficult to clean up at the end.
Looks like you will be able to do a partial replacement with good results. Got any moisture meter readings from the wood in the outer areas?
Looks like you will be able to do a partial replacement with good results. Got any moisture meter readings from the wood in the outer areas?
#6
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From: KY
Looks like some of the work that I had to do on my 330SS . . . working around wiring and plumbing and such. Makes things more challenging and difficult to clean up at the end.
Looks like you will be able to do a partial replacement with good results. Got any moisture meter readings from the wood in the outer areas?
Looks like you will be able to do a partial replacement with good results. Got any moisture meter readings from the wood in the outer areas?
#7
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Like dave says, with the time spent in properly glassing in a partial repair, you are much better off to just rip the entire transom out. Been there, done it and couldn't agree more. Regardless it will be better than what was originally there.
#8
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From: KY
That isn't my take away from what Dave said. If this isn't what is being said please explain
#9
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Well I won't speak for him, however his advice is 99% of the time remove the entire transom. You really never know how far the rot has travelled too. A partial repair will never be as strong as a properly installed full transom replacement. Notice he says "nip away at it until it's all gone". To me that sounds like, remove the entire inner transom and start over. I could be wrong, so hopefully he chimes in.
I did this a few months back along with stringers. Daves advice was priceless. Can't thank him enough. With the modern products such as corebond, Biax and new resins, if done properly the end result will be so overbuilt it will outlast you easily. I considered a partial repair before deciding to take Glassdaves advice. Glad I did. Here's the thread.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/f...s-partial.html
I did this a few months back along with stringers. Daves advice was priceless. Can't thank him enough. With the modern products such as corebond, Biax and new resins, if done properly the end result will be so overbuilt it will outlast you easily. I considered a partial repair before deciding to take Glassdaves advice. Glad I did. Here's the thread.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/f...s-partial.html
Last edited by Borgie; 10-27-2014 at 12:12 AM.
#10
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From: Frankfort IL
If I were you, I would replace the entire transom,cut the stringers out at a 45 Degree angle so you can get the new transom in, I am 3/4 the way thru doing this to my 27' Magnum Sedan with the help of GlassDave (Thanks again man!) This way you KNOW there is no rot left. DO it once, and do it right. There is not going to be a great cost difference doing a full Vs a partial, but the piece of mind knowing it is put together better than the factory did it is comforting, especially since you are upping the power. Have you considered raising your "X" while you are at it? Also As per Dave's recommendation, get some Corebond to laminate the transom to the Hull and do all your fillets with, its super easy to work with, even I was able to do it, and it looks professional.
Here are my threads:
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/f...e-pics-me.html
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/m...ead-intro.html
Here are my threads:
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/f...e-pics-me.html
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/m...ead-intro.html





