Odds and ends for a Gen IV refresh
#1
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Joined: Jun 2012
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Trying to decide on some things while rebuilding my Gen IV 454...
Nothing major with the build, but some random accessories and components...
Should I re-use the following or replace with new...
Oil Pump (Prev did get water in oil)
Harmonic Balancer
Timing Chain Cover (install new seal?)
Power Steering Pump (Can't find a fair priced one, suggestions?? or clean up and paint?)
Oil filter adapter and remote mount (Considering it had water in oil?) If not how to rinse out?
Im defiitely getting these new...
Starter
Alternator
Camshaft & Lifters
Timing Chain
Head studs... any fitment issues with EMI Thunder manifolds?
All new cooling hoses
Anything else I should consider while doing on the motor?
Nothing major with the build, but some random accessories and components...
Should I re-use the following or replace with new...
Oil Pump (Prev did get water in oil)
Harmonic Balancer
Timing Chain Cover (install new seal?)
Power Steering Pump (Can't find a fair priced one, suggestions?? or clean up and paint?)
Oil filter adapter and remote mount (Considering it had water in oil?) If not how to rinse out?
Im defiitely getting these new...
Starter
Alternator
Camshaft & Lifters
Timing Chain
Head studs... any fitment issues with EMI Thunder manifolds?
All new cooling hoses
Anything else I should consider while doing on the motor?
#2
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 127
From: Pasadena, MD
Should I re-use the following or replace with new...
Oil Pump (Prev did get water in oil) -yes
Harmonic Balancer I - no
Timing Chain Cover – no (install new seal? - yes)
Power Steering Pump – no (or clean up and paint? – if it works)
Oil filter adapter and remote mount (Considering it had water in oil?) If not how to rinse out? – If you are just talking about the hoses and mounts rinse out with diesel fuel or engine flush for the local parts store
Im defiitely getting these new... - why
Oil Pump (Prev did get water in oil) -yes
Harmonic Balancer I - no
Timing Chain Cover – no (install new seal? - yes)
Power Steering Pump – no (or clean up and paint? – if it works)
Oil filter adapter and remote mount (Considering it had water in oil?) If not how to rinse out? – If you are just talking about the hoses and mounts rinse out with diesel fuel or engine flush for the local parts store
Im defiitely getting these new... - why
#3
What he said^^^^^^^^^^
I would just use new ARP head bolts and Felpro or Cometic head gaskets.
I see no reason to replace the starter and alternator if they were working fine. Replace hoses as needed after inspection.
I would use the money saved and upgrade to a roller cam/lifters and roller rockers.
I would just use new ARP head bolts and Felpro or Cometic head gaskets.
I see no reason to replace the starter and alternator if they were working fine. Replace hoses as needed after inspection.
I would use the money saved and upgrade to a roller cam/lifters and roller rockers.
Last edited by Griff; 02-16-2015 at 12:51 AM.
#4
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Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 351
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Should I re-use the following or replace with new...
Oil Pump (Prev did get water in oil) -yes
Harmonic Balancer I - no
Timing Chain Cover – no (install new seal? - yes)
Power Steering Pump – no (or clean up and paint? – if it works)
Oil filter adapter and remote mount (Considering it had water in oil?) If not how to rinse out? – If you are just talking about the hoses and mounts rinse out with diesel fuel or engine flush for the local parts store
Im defiitely getting these new... - why
Oil Pump (Prev did get water in oil) -yes
Harmonic Balancer I - no
Timing Chain Cover – no (install new seal? - yes)
Power Steering Pump – no (or clean up and paint? – if it works)
Oil filter adapter and remote mount (Considering it had water in oil?) If not how to rinse out? – If you are just talking about the hoses and mounts rinse out with diesel fuel or engine flush for the local parts store
Im defiitely getting these new... - why
I will definitely get a new oil pump... Ill clean up the balancer, timing chain, and steering pump, and paint what I can to make it look clean. With the oil filter adapter, I meant the part that mounts to the bottom of the block, the hoses, and the mount for the actual oil filter... Just go ahead and rinse it all out with engine flush??
What he said^^^^^^^^^^
I would just use new ARP head bolts and Felpro or Cometic head gaskets.
I see no reason to replace the starter and alternator if they were working fine. Replace hoses as needed after inspection.
I would use the money saved and upgrade to a roller cam/lifters and roller rockers.
I would just use new ARP head bolts and Felpro or Cometic head gaskets.
I see no reason to replace the starter and alternator if they were working fine. Replace hoses as needed after inspection.
I would use the money saved and upgrade to a roller cam/lifters and roller rockers.
You think go with bolts instead of studs? Ive never used studs, but someone told me to as theyre reusable, more reliable, and wont stretch...
Ill def get one of those brand head gaskets... Should I be using normal gaskets, or stainless steel MLS? Im using Edelbrock aluminum heads with the iron block
Ive already got a set of roller rockers, but Ill look into roller cam/lifters... Soo expensive though, no? Over $1k for a kit?
Going with new starter as its the original 20+ years old, and hard to change once in the boat... and the alternator has been quirky recently and when spun by hand can feel/hear the bearings are on the way out. I was going to replace both with some DBElectrical pieces... Both are under $150 shipped
#5
A well matched roller cam/lifters that is designed to make the most hp with your other engine components will give substantial gains.
Yes use the SS MLS gaskets or cometics. Studs are not at all necessary for a mild build and are of no benefit. There may also be issues with them hitting the exhaust manifolds.
Yes use the SS MLS gaskets or cometics. Studs are not at all necessary for a mild build and are of no benefit. There may also be issues with them hitting the exhaust manifolds.
#6
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 4,031
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From: westville, NJ
If starter is full size unit you can take it and the alternator to a local rebuilder and get them done for 50 bucks each. Timing chain cover and oil pan can both rust through if they lived in a salty engine compartment. Check them. Also if you have the power steering valve with 2 lines running around them from 1 side to the other, ckeck them closely. When they rot through you get this pretty pink fog spraying power steering fluid everywhere. They are repairable with engine in place but no fun. 2 copper brake lines from auto parts store and a couple tight careful bends...20 bucks tops. But r&r steering valve is big pita.
Last edited by dereknkathy; 02-16-2015 at 04:42 PM.
#7
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Joined: Jun 2012
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A well matched roller cam/lifters that is designed to make the most hp with your other engine components will give substantial gains.
Yes use the SS MLS gaskets or cometics. Studs are not at all necessary for a mild build and are of no benefit. There may also be issues with them hitting the exhaust manifolds.
Yes use the SS MLS gaskets or cometics. Studs are not at all necessary for a mild build and are of no benefit. There may also be issues with them hitting the exhaust manifolds.
As far as the cam Ill get a hold of RMBuilder to see what roller cam he recommends....
#9
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8,439
Likes: 93
From: yorkville,il
i see a lot of people talking about mls head gasket,s but on the lower to moderate hp engines[500 to 850]they just are not necessary.if the deck&head surfaces are not properly prepped the mls gasket can cause issues.imo,the fel pro marine gasket is a good choice for most bbc marine engines.



