1996 Bravo 1. I broke off one of the bolts that holds the Electrode to the hydraulic manifold on the bottom of the gimbal ring. I have slack at the Mercathode "brain" in the fuse box and all the way down the transom wall (inside the loom); however, when tugging on the electrode the wires won't pull out. I'm afraid to break them off in the gimbal ring. Has anyone had this issue and how did you resolve it?

I'd 3M 4200 the electrode to the manifold (I can fit a syringe into the space between) but the surfaces aren't clean, there'd be only the one remaining bolt holding it on (seal) and it's a known leak point when assembled properly with 2 bolts. I feel I need to use 2 bolts from the get go rather than make more of a mess. While I can drill out the broken bolt; I haven't seen a tap long enough to go through the electrode and make threads in the hydraulic manifold.

Thanks for any help you can lend.
Keith

I would remove and replace the hydraulic manifold part number 8M0080805
The manifold has nuts on it and the Mercathode bolts to the manifold and doesn't do all the way into the assembly.



Will need to pull the wires out and reinsert. My guess is once you have the manifold down some you will be able to see what is holding the wires

I would replace the manifold also. I changed a hydraulic line last month and the manifold is a bi..tc. even with 2 people.

I can't even get the electrode down far enough to get to the manifold nuts, there's not even a pinky (finger) space between. It seems at this point, my choices are to reattach the electrode with 1 bolt, drill through its hole to get the broken bolt out of the mani., find a long enough tap to retap the threads or use a heli-coil. Or sacrifice the electrode by cutting the wires, then I have the room I need to at least get the bolt out of the mani. I can use one of the anodes that I have on hand which includes a plug for the wire hole.

Since I wouldn't be changing a hydraulic line would I be able to remove from outside the boat or is there something that has to come free from the inside? I know right now there is no way anyone can put a had that deep into my bilge with the engine in.

Thanks for your help guys!

If your boat does not spend time connected to shore power and in the water you don't need a Mercathode. Is the bolt out on the other side and you still can only have little area under it, or is the other bolt still in?

As you are now water will leak into the boat. If the manifold is loosened it will come down far enough to get at the lines on the inside.

is this trailered, or tied to the dock all week? if tied to the dock, is there a tide or current going by, or in a basin with very little water movement? because if the water the mercathode is ionizing is not hanging around the boat, it is doing very little good. the wires. you have enough slack to pull mercathode down a little bit? can you pull wires up and mercathode pulls back up against manifold? if you cant pull them down and through, you may have to cut them and attach new wires to old ones and pull them up with old ones. and if they do pull out, attach something to pull through to reattach wires to pull back up. they sort of thread through and tangle with the 2 trim lines that run to the pump and occupy the same space.

It will only be connected to shore power when I overnight in a transient slip, other than that its trailered. Both Mercathode electrode bolts are out, one cleanly that can be reinstalled.

I polled the forum last year about ditching the Mercathode systems and replacing with anodes in the exact location I am having this issue. Ditching the Mercathode was shot down by forum members here no matter trailered or not.

See above and my issue is the slack. I can't even get a finger between the electrode and hydraulic manifold. I'll try to pull up from the engine room today but don't want to make an issue of broken wires where I can't get to them either.

Thanks for the input guys!

Keith

If you do need to replace later (hope not) but this is how its done

Thanks!! Good 'old Mercruiser huh? haha

Welp, pulled on the electrode last night to get room in order to see if the stuck bolt could be drilled out and tapped. One of the wires broke out of reach. Cut the other, tucked up inside the hole in the gimbal for potential future pulling of new electrode wire, drilled the bolt out, tapped and will install the anode kit I have on hand that includes a rubber plug and gasket for the hole.

I'm of the opinion that I rather have an anode that I know is always "working" rather than the MC system.

Keith