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A little help on the mercathode system...

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A little help on the mercathode system...

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Old 07-31-2018 | 09:17 PM
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Default A little help on the mercathode system...


The mercathode system on my boat was slightly butchered when I bought it. It was all freshwater and there is no harm thus far but since I have it all apart I’d like to put it back to its full integrity if possible.

To start, when I pulled the bell housing the little bast*rd of a screw that holds the bonding cable sheared right off so I have to drill and tap that out. Any idea what size that was?

are there complete kits to patch it all together?

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Old 08-01-2018 | 06:58 AM
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You can buy all the screws and wires thru Merc. Genuine Mercury & Mercruiser parts. CONTINUITY KITp
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Old 08-01-2018 | 10:01 AM
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Perfect. That’s the exact help I needed. Thanks.
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Old 08-07-2018 | 10:22 AM
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Have you researched Mercathode well? Members here had to double up controllers to get enough field to even be effective. I simple replaced the cathode with a zinc rather then go through the ridiculous testing procedure to find out if there's enough field etc.
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Old 08-07-2018 | 07:29 PM
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Connect lead from 1/2 cell to DVM. Connect ground lead from DVM to boat ground. Drop 1/2 cell in water behind drive and read meter. Easy Pezy. Besides, how do you know if your zinc is enough w/o doing the same test?
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Old 08-08-2018 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
Connect lead from 1/2 cell to DVM. Connect ground lead from DVM to boat ground. Drop 1/2 cell in water behind drive and read meter. Easy Pezy. Besides, how do you know if your zinc is enough w/o doing the same test?
Most weekend boaters don't have a DVM laying around and they aren't cheap, from what I researched. Additionally the procedure says you need to either wait for 12 hrs after pulling into your slip or run the test for 12 hrs for it to be accurate. I can't recall which at the moment, it's been awhile. And at that, whatever changes you make like running more than one system per engine etc you're only covered for that slip as fields from slip to slip change. IMO, not worth it for trailered boats like mine which may transient for a night or two.

You can watch the zinc erode and add an array of more temporarily while slipped.

Keith

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Old 08-13-2018 | 06:31 PM
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Plus, any current at all and your field is washing away...
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Old 08-14-2018 | 02:24 PM
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Is this system primarily for boats sitting in slips for long durations? I’m 99% fresh water and always trailered. While everything is apart I’m still putting it back together, but it sounds like I don’t even need the system.
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Old 08-15-2018 | 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Baja Rooster
Is this system primarily for boats sitting in slips for long durations? I’m 99% fresh water and always trailered. While everything is apart I’m still putting it back together, but it sounds like I don’t even need the system.
Affirmative; however, just because it's fresh water use doesn't mean there isn't an electrical field near docks or large raft ups.

Keith
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Old 08-15-2018 | 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Tractionless


Most weekend boaters don't have a DVM laying around and they aren't cheap, from what I researched. Additionally the procedure says you need to either wait for 12 hrs after pulling into your slip or run the test for 12 hrs for it to be accurate. I can't recall which at the moment, it's been awhile. And at that, whatever changes you make like running more than one system per engine etc you're only covered for that slip as fields from slip to slip change. IMO, not worth it for trailered boats like mine which may transient for a night or two.

You can watch the zinc erode and add an array of more temporarily while slipped.

Keith
Multimeters are cheap. Here is an example: https://m.sears.com/craftsman-multim...FUoFDAodTG8JQw

It is a must have for any one that works on a car, boat or house.
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