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496 HO won't start after disconnecting engine

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496 HO won't start after disconnecting engine

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Old 07-01-2019 | 12:27 PM
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Default 496 HO won't start after disconnecting engine

Boat: 2008 Formula 350 SS w/ dual 496 HO/B3/DTS/Axius

I made the mistake of again letting my batteries get too low and my boat started throwing error codes that I experienced in the past when I made the same mistake... After letting the boat charge over night I was still getting the error codes (but would still start normally) so I decided to try and reset the engine, turning off all the breakers didn't seem to make a difference (I saw the same codes as soon as I turned the key on) so I unplugged the ECM, engine power harness (I think) and the connection to the controls and dash. After plugging everything back in I now get a "low voltage" error even though my vesselview shows that I'm at 13.1v. Trying to turn the key does nothing (no crank), although I do sometimes see "start sequence aborted" on the VV. I disconnected all the same connections and checked for bent pins and to make sure they were seated properly but there was no change. Is the VV referring to a different voltage showing low?

I ordered a RINDA/DIACOM adapter/software kit earlier in hopes that it can show better information (and make clearing codes easier next time). I noticed one of their training videos showed two different voltages, one for the PCM and one for the ignition switch. As a side note, is there any reason that I should avoid having the adapter connected at all times? I'm installing a PC (based on an Atomic Pi) on my boat and if this is safe to do I'll just leave it connected at all times.


Error is the same regardless of whether starboard engine is on/started


Errors before disconnecting engine


Errors before disconnecting engine

Really hoping to get it fixed in time for the 4th of July so any help would be HUGELY appreciated!

Last edited by DracoDan; 07-02-2019 at 06:51 AM.
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Old 07-01-2019 | 01:34 PM
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One more thing to note, this happens even if I switch my "battery parallel" to on.
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Old 07-01-2019 | 05:24 PM
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Don't know where your located but suggest pm BUP and see if he has any time to assist.

Don't know how Atomic Pi (quad core processor) will interface with VV or NEMA, maybe someone else can help

Once a (start type) lead acid (LA) battery goes lower then 11.55V it can damage the battery and it may not come back. Lower then that, just makes it harder for the bat to ever come back to working level. If after the motor is shut down and nothing is being used, and the bat does not measure at least 12.3V, then you may need to replace it. A fully charged LA bat should measure 12.7V after sitting with no drain after an hour or so

Don't know what is installed on your boat, but some of the codes could be from items which where never installed on it. Such as DTS1 CCM:Joy stick unavailable, do you have joy stick control?
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Old 07-01-2019 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by AllDodge
Don't know where your located but suggest pm BUP and see if he has any time to assist.

Don't know how Atomic Pi (quad core processor) will interface with VV or NEMA, maybe someone else can help

Once a (start type) lead acid (LA) battery goes lower then 11.55V it can damage the battery and it may not come back. Lower then that, just makes it harder for the bat to ever come back to working level. If after the motor is shut down and nothing is being used, and the bat does not measure at least 12.3V, then you may need to replace it. A fully charged LA bat should measure 12.7V after sitting with no drain after an hour or so

Don't know what is installed on your boat, but some of the codes could be from items which where never installed on it. Such as DTS1 CCM:Joy stick unavailable, do you have joy stick control?
Ignore the comments about the atomic pi, it's just an x86 computer that will act like a laptop normally would connected to DIACOM. It won't connect to the VV or NEMA network, just the diagnostic cable that will plug into the engines.

Yes, it has DTS and the joystick.

As you can see from the pictures, I was measuring 13.1v on the port batteries when it was complaining about low voltage.

Thanks for the tips, I was hoping BUP would see this but I'll take your advice and PM him.
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Old 07-02-2019 | 06:50 AM
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"BUP has exceeded their stored private messages quota and cannot accept further messages until they clear some space."
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Old 07-02-2019 | 06:57 AM
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At 13.1V your still low, it should be 14+V with motor running
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Old 07-02-2019 | 09:16 AM
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I would pull the batteries out, and have them tested by an auto parts or battery store.
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Old 07-03-2019 | 12:08 PM
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Okay, I get that the batteries might be near their end of life but the voltage while running should be from the alternator. Additionally the nominal voltage of an AGM battery at 100% is ~13v.

That said the port engine won't even try to start even though it did immediately before I disconnected and reconnected it. Plus if it were a battery problem then me turning the switch on for battery parallel should give me enough power since the starboard engine starts just fine.

One other possible symptom that I forgot to mention is that when the boat went haywire the night before, the controls/drives started acting like the were reversed IE. when I went forward on the port and reverse on the starboard, the boat rotated COUNTER-clockwise and vice-versa. I had originally just chalked this up to the electronics not liking the low voltage, but I'm not so sure now.
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Old 07-03-2019 | 12:28 PM
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This sounds like to me you have a bad cell, shunt, open, or something seriously wrong inside one of the batteries. It's not they they are dead, it's that something has malfunctioned inside. If it were me, I'd disconnect ALL power, yank those batteries, and have them tested. Or see if you can find someone to bring their tester to the boat.

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Old 07-03-2019 | 02:09 PM
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Okay, I get that the batteries might be near their end of life but the voltage while running should be from the alternator. Additionally the nominal voltage of an AGM battery at 100% is ~13v.
Agree, this is about where the AGM would be so long as the motor is not running, and no battery charger is connected. When charging, the ALT and charger will charge above 14V

Have the bat load tested, and if good, have the ALT tested
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